GLD4400NB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed inside of door, slide bottom seal on and put inside door back on. Job done!

Followed instructions on how-to video on website on how to remove and replace lower spray arm.

Pulled old spray arm off and snapped new one on. Less than 3 minutes and works great. Dishes are cleaner now.

Changed the main chip. the unit then started and continuously ran. Thought something was wrong with it. It is just a cycle of the dishwasher and when the pump quit running the dishwasher ran and operates. Saved me lots of money and time.

Purchased new $1400 dishwasher from sales floor for $699. Cosmetically perfect, but missing drain tube and clamp. Seemed like a good deal... and it was. Needed parts were $34. Install of this machine was a breeze, and it is suoer quiet...I need to get down on the floor and listen for water flow to know that it's working. Really.

I called your tech and she sent me a awesome video that made it so easy to fix on my own

Pulled the old one out and placed the new one right into place

Followed the instruction video on your website. It was accurate and valid. The repair should have taken 15 mins., instead one of the screws holding the dispenser was frozen. Tried DW-40, and liquid wrench. Neither worked because the screw was in plastic.Finally got out the Dremel and cutting wheels. Had to cut away enough of the unit until I could get at the screw (it was the center bottom one). Sliced through some more of the housing, then cut a notch in the screw head deep enough so I could apply enough pressure with a flat blade screwdriver to open it. After that things went as smoothly as could be expected.A bad design and cheap materials.

Replaced the plastic piece. Simple

Replaced lower spray arm

Disconnected water, drain, electrical- remove dishwasher.
Place dishwasher on back removed part- replace with new part-reconnected and reinstalled.

Replaced keypad electronics PC boards.

Just put lids in place. Took about 3 minutes.

Checked availability of replacement machine and replacement parts online..in this process, I ran across a similar story by someone who fixed similar problem on a similar machine. Before removing the fill valve, I tried to confirm that it was defective my reading solenoid coil continuity. It looked ok so I could not use that info to confirm a bad fill valve, although that possibility was not eliminated. So I ordered a replacement fill valve, removed existing fill valve and took a long position on paper plates. On delivery of the valve, I found that its mounting bracket (which forms a part of the supply pressure boundary) had been redesigned to conform to a year-2000 redesign of the machine. Valve instructions allowed for this and provide for retention of mounting bracket from old valve for use on new valve. Instructions indicated the o ring from new valve (vs old) should be used in attaching the old bracket. I found that the o ring groove in the new valve was so deep that o-ring compression on reassembly was prevented. I went ahead and put together with new o-ring. When turned on supply pressure, it began leaking immediately, so I shut down, removed valve again. During this (2nd) reassembly, I stacked both o rings in same groove in order to get compression at all. Reinstalled valve w/ both o rings....no leaks and it works. I think valve design should be reviewed and depth of o ring groove reduced so only one o ring is needed.

Just remove the lower basket from the machine and pull the old wheels off. Then snap on the new wheels on the pegs. The old style wheels snap in place without much force. The new wheels take much more force to install and lock onto the basket which keeps them from coming off when the basket is heavily loaded.