EDW5160N10SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Although the replacement part was different that the original, the replacement is a better design and attached with no difficulty.

Removed inside of door, slide bottom seal on and put inside door back on. Job done!

Followed instructions on how-to video on website on how to remove and replace lower spray arm.

watched the video

Replaced lower spray arm

Very easy - remove the screws around the inside of the door. 6 screws and 2 plugs to remove the assembly. Just be careful not the strip the sheetmetal screws when putting it back together. No screwguns...

Very Easy! Lift old arm out and replaced it with the new one.

Just remove the lower basket from the machine and pull the old wheels off. Then snap on the new wheels on the pegs. The old style wheels snap in place without much force. The new wheels take much more force to install and lock onto the basket which keeps them from coming off when the basket is heavily loaded.

Replaced the plastic piece. Simple

Just put lids in place. Took about 3 minutes.

Removed the broken clips - they snap off
then snapped on the new clips and attached them to the rollers.

I measured the diameter of the working wheels from the existing ones, and located the parts I needed from the website. I order two packages, each containing the wheels and axles for the rack.
When delivered, I snapped the wheels onto the delivered axles. Then, I snapped the axels unto the bottom rack, at the correct place. I used a large pliers for leverage because the axel was a bit tight to just simply snap on.
The middle wheels are located just behind the front wheels, thereby offering support when the botton rack is pulled forward for loading. Likewise, they offer support when the rack is pushed back in place.

Replaced keypad electronics PC boards.

Checked availability of replacement machine and replacement parts online..in this process, I ran across a similar story by someone who fixed similar problem on a similar machine. Before removing the fill valve, I tried to confirm that it was defective my reading solenoid coil continuity. It looked ok so I could not use that info to confirm a bad fill valve, although that possibility was not eliminated. So I ordered a replacement fill valve, removed existing fill valve and took a long position on paper plates. On delivery of the valve, I found that its mounting bracket (which forms a part of the supply pressure boundary) had been redesigned to conform to a year-2000 redesign of the machine. Valve instructions allowed for this and provide for retention of mounting bracket from old valve for use on new valve. Instructions indicated the o ring from new valve (vs old) should be used in attaching the old bracket. I found that the o ring groove in the new valve was so deep that o-ring compression on reassembly was prevented. I went ahead and put together with new o-ring. When turned on supply pressure, it began leaking immediately, so I shut down, removed valve again. During this (2nd) reassembly, I stacked both o rings in same groove in order to get compression at all. Reinstalled valve w/ both o rings....no leaks and it works. I think valve design should be reviewed and depth of o ring groove reduced so only one o ring is needed.

Ordered and replaced all three spray arms. The upper and middle spray arms were quickly replaced with a net-driver and are now working much better. The lower spray arm required no tool, just turn it CCW and lift it up. After replacement lower spray arm is still not moving at all. Maybe the lower spray arm washer is defective or the pump is just not putting out enough water. Will consider further repairs or replacement of the dish washer, it is 13 years old and used daily.