WRB3110MC119 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

With coin, to remove the end cap from the front inside of the rail, insert the edge of the coin into the side of the end cap and push the coin to the rear while rotating the end cap to the inside of the tray until it comes free. Don't force. Pepeat for other rail. Repeat to reinstall end caps. You can can now slide out the the tray. Use long nose pliers to remove old rollers and insert new roller(s) on same prong. Do all 4. Reinsert tray and end caps.

Pulled out the top tray fully, popped off the end caps. Removed the tray and placed it on the cabinet top. Popped off the old rollers and snapped on the new rollers. Replaced the tray into the dishwasher, Popped the end caps back on and I was done.

Removed all 8 wheels and inserted the new one after inserting the axles into each wheel. Replacement wheels had a much better connection to the bottom rack and do not anticipate any problems in the future.

I used the pump/motor replacement kit. It was a very easy repair and the parts were a direct replacement with no modification necessary. I saved over $300.

The hardest part is removing the plastic stop on the end of the two slides that support the roller rack. My unit was very old and I was afraid the plastic was brittle. Fortunately, the plastic could still be bent without breaking. You need to physically bend the plastic stops to remove. They came out easily, but you do need to apply some force.

Replacing the rollers was simple. Replacing the stops was easy once you understand how to pry them out. I would recommend trying to remove the stops with your hand only at first. You are less likely to damage the plastic.

I have to be honest. At first I called a repair person, but it was Sunday so he couldn't come till the following week. Then my incredibly intelligent, industrious, and internet-savvy wife found your website. We saw that others had had the same problem. The part we needed was right there.... voila! 2 days later I had the part in hand. Not being the most handy of handymen, I followed the directions that others who had the same problem had posted. Yep, it was that simple -- And a heck of a lot cheaper than a repair person. Your website was very valuable, and I definitely will refer it to others looking for a part for a home repair job.

First, remove the two access panels to the bottom of the dishwasher, each had two screws. Then, disconnect each old door cable and eyelet assembly, and the two springs. Now, connect the two new cable assemblies, and reconnect the two springs, one at a time, between the eyelets of the cable assemblies. Finally, replace the access panels

Removed access panel (2 screws), Replaced broken cable/Eyelet assembly. Replaced access panel. Job took 5 minutes, including clean-up & stowing tools.

Super-easy and quick repair -- quality part snapped right into place.

My GE dishwasher had a problem. The upper rack would fall into the lower rack when loaded breaking dishes! Turns out, the front rollers on the upper rack were broken so that the supports would just pull out. So, I found the parts on this website easily. I then took off the plastic plug on the support which is easy to do. There is a flange you bend towards the rear of the dishwasher to release the plug. Once released you have access to the rollers, which just snap off easily. The new ones snap on easily. Reverse the cap removal, and you are done!

There was a video on the page as the part. Done in a flash. The axle was a little hard to get into the wheel so I soaked it in a little hot water and it whet in like a charm.

Without any specific directions with the part (which would had been nice. If it wasn't for my husband I wouldn't have known where to start.) I had to carfully pull the dishwasher out of the cabinet (it wasn't heavy) to unplug the power supply. Then we unscrewed 2 screws on the top and the upper arm connection came off. We replaced it with the new one, screwed it back on, reconnected the power supply and pushed the dishwasher back where it belonged. It worked out very well.
Also I want to say I am very happy with the length of time it took to get my part to me. (1 day) I was washing dishes it no time.

Thank You
Debbie Bradford
Hookstown, Pa.

Door seal was brittle and flat.
Not a hard job to do just having to keep making sure the seal did not pop out on the bottom corners of the door. The seal would tare easy so have to be careful. Before you remove the old seal on the bottom of door there is a 4 inch space between the ends of the seal. Mark the spot with marker so you know where to start placing the new seal.
Baffles were orginaly put in place with plummer putty, do not use this. Get GE clear seal is the best will hold forever but will come loose with a good tug. easy to clean out when replacing baffles again. Do not use any sealent when inserting the door seal just push into opening. Make sure you support the door when pushing down on door to put the seal in the slots.
The hardest part is the bottom corners the seal tends to slip out I found that if I streached the seal over the openings and continued on and come back to the corners it was easier to make the seal slip in.

Installed new lower rack wheel kit

I made a substitute cable that worked ok, but was a bit loose. When the new cable part came in I simply unhooked the substitute and hooked the new part in its place. The two spring ends slip into a hole on the cable connector. The cable loops under a plastic pulley and the far end piece fits over a small retainer. Actually, unbolting the bottom case parts and bolting them back on took more time than replacing the broken cable. The door works fine now.