GSD5310D00BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

No Plumer could help me. No one heard of a dishwasher check valve. My dishwasher was an ISA. I was lost until i found the relationship to Kitchenaid. Then sears. Vuela!
The valve was there, but unavailable.
A few more links, and the term "flapper" came up.
Well, my dishwasher check valve HAD a flapper inside. Although a plastic pos, i could unscrew the two halves and see the flapper.
A little piece of rubber, about 1" in diameter
All suppliers gave me but two choices. One large (size given) one smaller.
After years of searching, all I needed was a flapper valve. Not the whole check valve.
I found it hear for under $10

Just took the old rusty rack out and put the new one in its place.

Shut of water to the built in dishwasher and shot of electric breaker , removed the water line and removed electric hookup at washer. Removed the drain pipe connected to the garbage disposal unit for more darin pipe room when pulling the appliance out from under the counter. Pull out the appliance, and carefully layed it flat on the back. Loosed the 2 connector clamps with a srewdriver from the upper and lower rubber connectors and the small drain rubber connector, used a plier. Loosed the screw on wire hold down pulled the housing pump out of the rubber connectors and used a wire hanger to help support the dangling housing pump unit. Unscrewed the damanged rubber connector using a washcloth for a better grip. , Rescrewed in the new rubber connector. ( Hint- used petrolem vasaline on the rubber connector base for a water tight fit) . Reconnected all , replaced elctric and water line, reconnected the darin pipe to the garabage disposal. Turned water back on. All worked at well.

Pulled the basket out the appliance and took what was left of the roller off and replaced them and slid the basket back onto the slide channel into the appliance. Then snapped the end caps on. Almost too simple. Less money than it costs to have the service man ring your door bell.

First I replaced the flapper valve of of off the water pump. That worked for a couple of days, then the standing water was back. After more research at your site I ran across other person who had the same problem and they ended up replacing the piston and valve assembly. After pulling the dishwasher out I was able to find where these parts were located. The piston's rubber part was half gone. I replaced it and the gasket and another flapper valve. This model has two flapper valves. One difficulty was that you have to replace the screen inside the dishwasher before you replace the housing that the piston fits in. Your site and other folks contributing their stories helphed me to solve our problem. The dishwasher works like new now. Thanks. Ralph Naddeo.

I unscrewed the check valve, tipped the dishwasher on its face, and removed the asembly below it. Then replaced the valve flapper, cleaned out the assembly (broken champagne glass and udder nasties) then put it back the way I found it.
Then I put the new check valve on, and started the dishwasher up.

10 screws and $30 worth of parts saved me 400 bones for buying a new dishwasher.


If you have sanding water in your dishwasher check these two parts.....that check valve is the culpret.

rat got in after hurricane and after eating poison chewed all the hoses looking for water. i thought about replacing the dishwasher but it was $1100 and for $109 i replaced all the rubber parts. it was a easy as looking at the parts on the chart and ordering what i needed. from there i used a screw driver, nut driver, and pliers to remove and replace parts, at first i was nervous about leaks because i am very weak in the plumbing department but to my surprise no gaskets, jellies, or putties needed it was a simple as plug and play.

Research the problem on the internet .People suggestion was to replace the sequence switch . If this does not work replace the mother board .The sequence switch was replaced and fixed the problem .

with electric power and water source turned off,I first bailed out the water from tub then I pulled dishwasher out from under cabinet . Then I removed the motor and pump and put it on the table. I took a digital photo so I could remember exactly how everything was assembled. I checked for clogs and damage and realized that the solonoid casing had melted around the armature link assembly . I Looked at diagram for parts name and number and ordered from parts select. In the meantime I put a temporary one feed valve on hot water feed line so I could have access to hot water in kitchen while I waited for parts wich were here in a couple of days. Put it all back and it runs fine. Thank for your help

Removed the dishwasher from the cabinet. Turned it on it's top side. Removed the exit hose from the pump with a nut driver and replaced the flapper. Reconnected the hose to the pump.

Replaced with a new rinse aid fill cap.

Just lift out the old dishrack and put in the new. Very easy and straightforward. Easy to order, unit came assembled. Happy customer.

The leak was coming from the drain valve shaft and I found the tips to replace the seal from this website. I was able to reach everything without removing the dishwasher from the cabinet. Once I got the cam lifter off the old push on nut was corroded so it was easy to get off. The old seal was recessed so I used the point of an ice pick to gently pry it out. The new seal was easy to push in place but the push on nut was a bear. I saw other comments about using a deep socket to push it on but I didn't have one the right size. I was able to hold the end of the shaft with pliers and pushed the nut in place using a screwdriver. Ran a short cycle and no more leak. Thank goodness for this website. Found the part easily and the other written comments were very helpful.

Leaking at bottom of door edge - ordered new gaskets all around - no sense in replacing one at a time and paying extra shipping. Removed screws on the inside of the door panel and it lifted off easily. bottom corner of gasket was black and that is where some of the leaking was from. I replaced the door seal and ran the washer and it still leaked.... Pulled the washer out from the enclosure and it was quite wet back there - so I wanted to pull the washer to dry and clean things up - turned off power and water and remove screws at top edge that secure it to countertop. Insulation wrap was wet - Removed that and put it into the sun to dry - no sign of where water was leaking - reconnected water and power and ran a cycle with the washer pulled out - slowly leaking from top of washer where hose enters the top sprayer. Was easy to get to the sprayer - two little screws hold it in - removed the hose that feeds the sprayer and it was disintegrating - crumbly- I ordered the part and put it all back together and used a washer at the sprayer/hose junction to compress the fitting in hopes it would hold until the replacement came - it did. The replacement installed in 10 mins and did not need to disconect water or power. I would suggest replacing this hose at the same time you replace door seals based on condition of my hose.

Once the new motor and pump kit arrived. I removed the dishwasher, turned it upside down and replaced the motor and pump with the new one per the directions. Difficulty came in feeding the electrical wire/plug back through the cabinets. Once done, turned on the dishwasher, filled the tub, then manually moved the dial to drian. The water still would not drain from the tub. I searched further for the problem. Here it is; Found the air gap tube was plugged with food. Once I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the air gap, the tub drained fast and everything works great. So, I hope you folks put this up in your troubleshooting section for others to check before buying a pump and motor kit. If you had, I would have been able to check out the air gap, clean it out first before spending $140.00 for a pump and motor kit I didn't need. Anyway, lessons learned..Jeff