GSD4208F01BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Disconnect water line and screws (2) holding dishwasher under cabinet, and clamp for wastewater line. Pulled dishwasher out, turned on its side, and removed pump. Disassembled pump per instructions (great instructions) and installed new parts. Reversed to reassemble and except for a loose clamp that leaked (I tightened) it went well. Just under 1 hour.

Remove two front mount screws from counter top
Lower dishwasher floor feets
Pulled electric leads cover and disconnect electric leads
Pulled dishwasher out and leaned on it's back
Sorry missed a step turn off breaker to dishwasher
Removed water line and drain hose
Removed motor/pump using only a socket setup and cross tip screw driver
Installed new motor/pump using same tools as removal
Stand dishwasher back up push back into space and reconnect all item mention in removal
Turn back on breaker
Ops check dishwasher
Done.

Only getting "humming" sound from dishwasher. Although water had filled the dishwasher tub, pump/motor would not operate. After some research, figured the motor had siezed and I had to replace the pump/motor assembly as mentioned on this site. The kit came in a couple days and I reserved a Sunday afternoon for the repair which I had never done before. Hardest part of repair was unhooking and removing dishwasher from under counter and then getting it back in proper place. I would suggest providing some instruction within the repair instructions showing how the dishwasher is installed or how to remove it as I had never installed one so I was not quite sure what screws etc I needed to remove on the dishwasher itself to start to remove it? I was able to find the original installation instruction for the dishwasher and found that all you had to do was remove two screws from the inside top of the dishwasher which were securing it to the bottom side of the kitchen counter and then the whole thing just slides out. Once removed, turned dishwasher over to access bottom where pump/motor is located. After determining which diagram to use with the instructions, proceeded to replace the motor/pump assembly. It came out easily after wrestling with some corroded bolts/nuts and the existing pump inlet and outlet hose clamps. Mine were old and worthless and no new ones (3-4") are supplied with the kit. Had to run to hardware store to get new hose clamps for the inlet/outlet of the pump before intalling new one. Suggest new hose clamps be provided with the kit. Only thing that was not too clear in instructions was when reconnecting power wiring harness to motor. By looking closely at the instruction diagram I was able to locate what looked to be the right power extension harness from the bag of parts and attach it to the existing power wire harness and the new motor. Suggest also that you somehow better distinguish or identify the proper way the power wire harness should be fastned to the motor? The existing power wires were both the same color and both the female and male connections for the power at the new motor were identical leaving you to guess which wire goes to which connection. After re-installing dishwasher, put about a gallon of water in bottom of unit prior to starting and then put it through a few cycles. It has been working just like new. Suggest having a helper when removing and re-installing dishwasher from under kitchen counter to assist with the power cord, water line, drain line, and help to turn the dishwasher upside down and right side up again.

The Solenoid black plastic had melted around the solenoid shaft. I unplugged the solenoid, removed 2 screws,then one C clip and pulled the the unit out. The new solenoid is difficult to install all together as the shaft it goes on holds it all together when both springs are installed - - so I installed in one piece, with the 2 screws, except for the white plastic thing, the C clip that holds it on the shaft, and one of the two springs - - these three items went on separately. I wanted to thank the help your expert gave, but I couldn't figure how to do that.

First, I drained the water from inside the washer and removed it from under the sink. I wasn't sure if I had a clog in the drain line, so I dissasembled the drain under the sink and cleaned that as well. While cleaning under the sink my wife found her $4000 dollar ruby that fell out of her mothers ring a couple weeks earlier. It must have dripped out of the trap while I had water draining everywhere. Put drain back together and moved on to the dishwasher repair. Parts were easy to install after laying the dishwasher down on its front to access the bottom back side. Hooked everything back up and slid it back under the countertop and away it went. Had one small leak after running (water in line wasn't tight enough). A twist with a pair of pliers and that was resolved.
Fast shipping by the way! I paid a little more for the exit washer than I wanted to, but with shipping only from one source and delivery of parts at the same time made downtime as little as possible. I'm sure I saved $100 dollars or so by using this website for parts and tech info. And recovered a precious stone to boot.

I had a slow drip under the dish washer that originated from the solenoid shaft. The replacement o ring fixed it up. While I had it pulled out I replaced all the door seals and top rack rollers.

I ordered the parts on a Thursday evening and received them on Friday. WOW now that's fast! The parts came from Illinois and I live in Indiana so that might have helped but I was very surprised and glad for the quick service. I would defiantly order from Parts Select again. Thank you!

turn wand counter clockwise until it's out,replace it with the new one.DON'T OVERTIGHTEN!

i removed the old power tower with a regular plumbers pliers spining SLOWLY and firmly but no too firm until it broke loose and unscrewed. I reintalled the new tower oppisite how i removed it being carefull not to overtighten. all is well. it was very ez, so much in fact that my wife thought she was going to be able to read a book waiting for me "all afternoon" to fix it! Bad news, I had to take her shopping!

i was impressed with the ease and speed of normal delivery of this part. this is a quality company. JS

I just plugged in the model number and a screen came up that showed all the part numbers that made up the model. picked out the parts that we needed and ordered it and within 2 day we had the new basket that we needed for our dish washer.
the service and ease was better that going to the appliance store and picking up the basket.
I was very happy the the service.
Donald Brown

Ordered the part online and replaced the hoses. Very easy...took maybe 20 minutes

Removed dishwasher, took off motor, and ordered part. It was delivered in a timely fashion (3 days). Determined which directions to follow. Used screwdriver to hook up motor. Put dishwasher back into cabinet area, made sure there were no leaks before fastening the dishwasher in place. Took about 1/2 hour to complete process. Very satisfied.

Plumber had suggested trying a new gasket rather than replace the dishwasher. Ordered one and installed it. Cleaned door and installed gasket in about 30 minutes. So far it works great .... and ... cheaper than new dishwasher.

I had already removed the screws that hold the inner door piece in place when diagnosing the problem. I snapped the new controller in place, put the 3 or so screws back in that hold it to the door, and replugged the wire harness connections from the power and the Sequencer. I put the inner piece of the door in place and replaced those 5 or so screws and restored power from the breaker box. The dishwasher gave a solid beep while the clean light flashed continuously. No other buttons were responsive and pressing the reset button caused a beep but nothing else. I began to research and diagnose that problem which was leading me to the Sequencer when I realized there was a "rewiring" plug on the controller I replaced that was not on the new controller. The controller which is made by Torisan is a generic part used by many manufacturers. The "rewiring" plug which goes into slot CN5 on the controller circuit card, which has wires that comes out of it and go back into other slots in the plug, is used to get the get the correct "pinout" sequence for GE's use of this generic component. Although I could find no information on this, the continuous beep was telling me there was a wiring problem. I removed the plug from the old controller, put it in CN5 of the new controller and the dishwasher works like a charm.

Went to repair parts on troubleshooting and found check valve assembly to be most common problem. Went to parts diagram to locate assembly and found it somewhat confusing as to exact location. Ordered part(s) on percentage as the problem. Received part next day (great)! Pulled dishwasher out and found I did NOT need to do so to replace check valve which is replaced without having to remove dishwasher. The gasket replacement was not necessary as it seals sump area from bottom of dishwasher and not the valve as it appears on the parts diagram. It took about 2 minutes to replace valve itself and it was the cause of the problem.

Simply screwed in new cap