GSD4610X00BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

REPLACE CONTROL BOARD - Turn off circuit breaker. Take out lower rack. Remove inside door panel (seven Phillips screws). Hold outside door panel (control board location) in place with bungee cord. Remove push lever (two screws) to facilitate removal of control board. Disconnect control board connectors (five, I think). Remove old control board (two screws and plastic clips). Install new control board (clips, connectors, and two screws). Re-install push lever (two screws). Re-install inside door panel (the main contol lever alignment is a little tricky), seven screws. Remove bungee cord. Put lower rack back in. Turn on circuit breaker. Test dishwasher. Worked perfectly, just like new. Normal amount of water in bottom. "Dry" cycle normal. "Clean" light comes on and stays on until door is opened i.e. normal operation. "Delay" feature also works normally. Dishwasher may last a few more years. Cost of control board: $120 inc. shipping.

Took inner door panel off and cleaned and replaced gasket.

Removed dishwasher, took off motor, and ordered part. It was delivered in a timely fashion (3 days). Determined which directions to follow. Used screwdriver to hook up motor. Put dishwasher back into cabinet area, made sure there were no leaks before fastening the dishwasher in place. Took about 1/2 hour to complete process. Very satisfied.

My GE Potscrubber 940 would not drain on all cycles. After checking the basin traps and not finding any blockage in the water drain line, I suspected that the problem was with the drain solenoid, since the motor was running smooth. I removed the dishwasher, primarily by removing the water supply line on the left side from the water inlet valve and disconnecting the electrical connections. Make sure you turn off the water and electricity before you do any work on the dishwasher. With the dishwasher taken out and on its side, the drain solenoid unit will be visible near the motor in the middle assuming that the front bottom panel of the dishwasher has been removed. I found mine to be all crudded up. I removed the electrical connections and the solenoid bracket. Then by using my multimeter, I found a bad resistance reading (infinity) for the solenoid. I ordered the Drain Solenoid Repair Kit and replaced all the items except the plastic rocker arm. Naturally, just reverse your steps to get the dishwasher back together. Turn the water and electricity back on and fire her up. Check for proper operation and any leaks and you should be done.

I would like to start-off by saying that I love this site . I've never been even remotely dissatisfied with parts I've ordered and the installation videos are awesome! I would recommend this site to anyone looking to repair appliances. Secondly, I am a retired mechanical designer with over 35 years of experience. I have a broad range of design experience in consumer, governmental, industrial and military part and product design. My opinion about the design having to do directly with my appliance is not very high and after talking with another local parts supplier discovered that this particular design is approximately 20 years old. I wonder how many dishwashers are leaking without the consumer realizing they have this problem. I followed the installation instructions provided by this site verbatim and the dishwasher still leaked like a sieve. This in my opinion goes back to my remarks concerning the design. This is a weak design at best and could benefit from an improvement in that area. After I installed the new parts, the push on nut (upon being seated onto the shaft for the drain valve flapper) was loose and spun freely. The push on nut did not properly compress the seal onto and around the flapper shaft nor into the valve housing. Water leaked through the seal as a result. I disassembled all of the parts again and placed a flat washer between the push on nut and the seal, to help compress the seal onto the flapper shaft and into the valve housing. The washer was a stainless steel flat washer with an ID that fit onto the shaft closely, but was a smaller OD than the seal. The washer was about 1/32" thick. Upon reassembly and observation, the dishwasher leak was stopped with the addition of the flat washer and my issue was resolved.

Put on a new cap.

The wheel kit came with axel's to support them. They snapped in place in seconds. No instructions provided, but installing method was obvious.

Snapped right in

Removed the lower rack. Took off the old wheels. Put the axles on the new wheels which took a little manpower, but became easier once you did a couple (there are 8 wheels). Then snapped the new wheels on the rack which was really simple. The new design is much improved to the old one. The wheels glide better, then they ever did. We're sorry we didn't think of this repair years ago and the cost was a fraction of the cost of a new dishwasher.

over time the upper rack axles broke so the rack would just come out of the rollers. I ordered the parts from here and had to youtube how to get the stops out so I didn't have to unscrew the metal guides out making an easy job into a hard one. all you have to do is with a flat head screw driver is slightly bend the plastic end part of the stop which is in the metal guide that stops the wheels from coming out of the guides. once you bend out the plastic end you then turn the stop to get it out of the metal guides. if you youtube it its very easy. just be easy when you bend the plastic piece because I can see it breaking. I didn't break mine so the job was very very easy and took all of about 5 to 10 minutes to complete the entire job. I love this site it had real life info to help out when you need to do a job and trouble shoot your appliance.

Pop the end caps off the slides by pushing the lock tab in with a medium flat screwdriver, through the square hole in the side of the slide. Pull the rack out and set it on the counter. Pop the axles off, with the rollers, with your fingers. They are just clipped on to the rack wire. Pop the new ones on 4 places, fingers only needed to clip them to the wire. Put the rack back in the dishwasher by aligning the rollers in the metal slides and pushing it in like normal. Pop the rack slide end caps in by just pushing them in. If you're smart you bought new ones, they're cheap insurance. Save any good used parts in your kitchen junk drawer for the next time you treat it rough. Less than 5 minutes to fix. So easy a caveman could do it. One just did!

Looked up possible causes on your website. Website stated that more than 50% of time the cause was the piston and nut assembly. Removed the piston and nut assembly in bottom of unit behind screen on rear wall and saw that the gasket seal was completely gone . Ordered the part. took less than 10 minutes to install. Tested the unit and it drained completely. Thank you as i was looking at a more difficult repair if the pump had to be replaced.Repair cost less than $20.00.Before changing piston and nut assembly I cleaned the strainer and sump. disconnected drain hose and checked for blockage . i than checked your website that listed the piston assembly as the culprit more than 50% of the time. Thanks again

I first made a bad assumption that the leaking dishwasher was from the gasket. I replaced the gasket and it still leaked. To find the leak, I took the body off of the dishwasher and ran it to find the leak. It was from the solonoid connection. I took photos of the leaking motor unit and very easily replaced the new motor unit by matching the placement from the photos. The hardest part is tipping the dishwasher on its side and mopping up the water.
It was very easy. All you need is a nut driver and a Phillips screwdriver. Even an over-domesticated, non- tool user can do it.

Pulled washer out about 6" without disconnecting any hoses. This way i could use both hands from the left side & front after i took the kick plate off.

I used Partselect.com to bring up my model #. Partselect.com provided complete breakdown of the part and where it was located. It was very easy following the diagrams provided.