GSD3207P00WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

There are 2 switches that should be pressed in when you move the handle to lock door, the switches usually go bad with time. Just take the six screws off on the inside of door, then remove screw on the underneath part of handle. The switches are located on the top part under a piece of 1 inch metal plate held in by a screw, remove that and you'll see the 2 switches, test the button on each one to see if it goes in and out, you'll hear the click to. Just unplug bottom first then the top if you need to replace the top one. Thats it.

The repair went smoothly. There were actually instructions included with the parts, so that was nice. The only "gotcha" I found was that . . . after you take off the old food-chopper, you have unscrew the old impeller from the motor shaft. This was a bit difficult and you'll want some good pliers to do it. Don't worry about stripping where the food chopper screwed on-to, that part is attached to the impeller and there is a new one on the new impeller. When I re-installed everything onto the dishwasher, it rattled the first couple of times while the wear-ring was finding it's seat. Don't worry, that's normal. It went away by the third wash. I think I still have a small crack in the pump housing, though. The pump housing is two halves of molded plastic fused together along a seam, and I think the seam is starting to leak. It's about one drop every 45 seconds. I'm thinking JB Weld will fix it.

1. I pulled off the plastic end caps to the top rack that allows the roller wheels to be pulled out of the aluminum rails. You need to push in the raised edge of the plastic caps so they clear the rail slot in order to remove them. This takes a little bit of finger pressure or you can use a flat-edge screw driver to pop them out.
2. Once this procedure is completed, you simply remove the rack and rollers from both rails and remove the old roller wheels and replace them with the new ones.
3. I used a phillips-head screw driver to tighten up the rail wheels before re-installing the top rack into the rails and then re-inserted the end caps. Pliers are handy to help get the end caps back into the rail slots.
4. I finally used a silcon spray on all of the rolling parts of the top tray assembly for lubrication.

I pulled the dishwasher out and detached the drain hose. I attached the new drain hose after cleaning out the connection to the garbage disposal.

Now my dishwasher doesn't stink anymore!

Opened the package and screwed in the new rinse aid fill cap. No problems. It fit and works just fine.

I removed the front bottom panels to give me access to the Solenoid area. I did not take out the dishwasher from the cabinetry. I removed the screws holding the solenoid assembly and the C clip holding the hand fan shaped white nylon thing onto the valve shaft. I slipped these to the side. Then I cut through and removed the push on nut with a wire snipper plier. Then I used a knife blade tip to pick out the black seal. I then slipped the new seal onto the shaft, being careful that the flat side was outward, and slid it down the shaft and , with my fingernail, pushed it completely flush into position. The biggest challenge was the push on nut. It does not push on easily and must have the lips pointed outward. It required the use of a 3/8" diamater tube slipped over the shaft to tap the nut down the shaft. This caused the shaft to push into the pump housing, which caused the valve to bind. So I used a vice grip to pull out on and hold the shaft while I tapped the push on nut with a flat head screwdriver. Then I just reversed the solenoid assembly removal. But , when I ran the dishwasher, it no longer leaked.

Heard a noise in our dishwasher and ended up taking the entire pump and housing out and found a small sucker stick in the impeller along with a bunch of string and other material that needed to be cleaned out. Also found that the housing was leaking at the shaft that goes to the solenoid and dripping on the solenoid and had rusted the metal plunger that goes into the solenoid. Bought the housing and solenoid unit. 1 screw (bottom one) on the housing was rusted becaue of the water. Had to hacksaw the housing and then had to drill out that screw. Also, the pump housing screen is left hand thread and is tough to get out. Had to hacksaw that too. Be careful of the orientation of the metal ring in the impeller area. I did that backwards the first time and the motor would not move. Also, the electrical connector to the motor appears to be polarized so it can only go on 1 way-notice before you take it out. Be sure to screw the solenoid bracket back on tight and notice the spring orientation before you remove-the new one was different than the old. Bottom line is that it works fine, and for $40, it's fixed, rather than spending $800 for a new one.

Pulled unit out from counter (never had dishwasher issues before) to see if there was anything obvious with wiring or anything. Noticed that some little piece on the bottom looked to have melted (later discovered to be the drain solenoid). Removed the obviously defective part and looked it up on line. Found the name of it on Part Select's website then started shopping for best price. Came back to Part Select because the price was the cheapest I could find. Two - Three days later received part and put it back on and had the dishwasher back in place and in use within about 10-15 minutes. Marking my first ever dishwasher repair. :)

Removed the wire clip, then removed two screws on mounting bracket. Then disconected the hose. Removed the brass elbow.

Then reversed these steps and I was done.

Shut of water to the built in dishwasher and shot of electric breaker , removed the water line and removed electric hookup at washer. Removed the drain pipe connected to the garbage disposal unit for more darin pipe room when pulling the appliance out from under the counter. Pull out the appliance, and carefully layed it flat on the back. Loosed the 2 connector clamps with a srewdriver from the upper and lower rubber connectors and the small drain rubber connector, used a plier. Loosed the screw on wire hold down pulled the housing pump out of the rubber connectors and used a wire hanger to help support the dangling housing pump unit. Unscrewed the damanged rubber connector using a washcloth for a better grip. , Rescrewed in the new rubber connector. ( Hint- used petrolem vasaline on the rubber connector base for a water tight fit) . Reconnected all , replaced elctric and water line, reconnected the darin pipe to the garabage disposal. Turned water back on. All worked at well.

Old cap was already off and had string on it. Cut the string. Placed end cap over. Used needle nose pliers to open metal rail a little and put in new cap. Locked right in. That was easy. Thanks again.

Pulled the basket out the appliance and took what was left of the roller off and replaced them and slid the basket back onto the slide channel into the appliance. Then snapped the end caps on. Almost too simple. Less money than it costs to have the service man ring your door bell.

It was tricky to get the old rack off. Usually you can unclip the clips closest to the front wheels to pull the rack out. However, there is an area behind one of the wheels that you can kind of release and than pull the rack out. You then have to slide out the funnel/fan piece from the middle. That piece slides/ snaps in the middle of the the new rack. Then slide the new rack in place, re attach the release used to slide oldrack out.
That is it !!

To remove the upper rack, twist the support rail end caps toward the center of the machine and slightly downward. The caps will come off and you can slide the new rack into place. Reverse the process to replace the end caps. One of mine broke and I will need to order replacements.
The original rack is no longer available. The replacement, which is the only one GE offers, has less storage space and is not as sturdy. It bends downward when full. I am very disappointed and recommend not replacing the rack unless you have no other choice.

Turn off water .Remove 4 screws holding lower front panels.Remove panels, valve is on left . Remove 2 screws that hold valve , slip valve up over clip. Using pliers slide clamp back, remove hose from valve.disconnect wire clip , unscrew from water fill line. Install new valve in the reverse order