SBSD137H0MV General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

This was a simple part swap. The stud rollers are the small peg-clips that hold the wheel on the lower dish rack. Removing the old stud rollers from the wheels required a pair of pliers. I then popped the new stud rollers into the old wheels and snapped them back onto the lower dish rack. I scored some major points from my frustrated wife -- easy, fast fix!

Removed the existing stud rollers with the wheels attached. Then removed the wheels from the stud roller. Then snapped the wheels on the new "Better Designed" stud rollers. Then easily snapped the new stud roller assembly in place. Piece of cake...works like a charm.

Thanks,

Randy

Man, if you need help doing this repair, you shouldn't even own a dishwasher, much less a house. This was the easiest repair in the entire galaxy. First, I removed the old wheels, which was easy becasue they were always falling off by themselves. I then had to use pliers to squeeze the old studs to remove them from the wheels. All the wheels were still in good shape. Then I snapped the wheels onto the new studs, and snapped the studs onto the lower rack. And then, it was like I was in heaven. Bluebirds were singing, the sun was shining, my lower rack was sliding in and out and in and out like it was new. O happy day.

We received our parts for our dishwasher within 2 days. It was very simple to find the parts on your site, and very easy to install. Our dishwasher is back to normal and the racks roll in and out easily. I would recommend ordering from PartSelect to anyone.

No instructions. At first thought I needed instructions. A minute later I was attaching the new rollers. Simple and easy. Took less than 15 minutes. Would recommend these rollers.

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

The entire flat side of the end cap, (with the cutout latch), goes on the outside of the guide bar. It took less than 15 seconds to insert. It took about 30 minutes of searching for videos and playing around with the part to figure this out. A simple diagram would have been helpful.

Used teflon tape around new 3/8 elbow. Re-installed valve in originals postion. Connected supply hose and reconnected electrical to valve.

Used Phillips screwdriver to undo brackets that keep dishwasher in place. Pulled out dishwasher from underneath the counter. Placed hinge arm in spring, hooked spring onto clip, placed hinge arm in clip. Put back dishwasher under the counter and screwed in place. Took all of 15 minutes. Saved 185.00 for service call.

Repaired the soap dispenser.

Purchased new $1400 dishwasher from sales floor for $699. Cosmetically perfect, but missing drain tube and clamp. Seemed like a good deal... and it was. Needed parts were $34. Install of this machine was a breeze, and it is suoer quiet...I need to get down on the floor and listen for water flow to know that it's working. Really.

I had a shut off water supply shut off shut under my sink. That is where I shut the water off for the dishwasher. I knew it was for the dishwasher ,because it follow the line, and could see it was going to the washer. Then I went down stairs in the basement. Opened my breaker box, and found the breaker for the dish washer marked dish washer, and put in the off position. When I was still up stairs I opened dish washer , and inside at the top was two screws holding the dishwasher to the counter top. Those two screws turned out to be the exact size of just about every screw I ended up having to unscrew on this machine. So at the time I was in the basement turning off breaker, I went to the garage to gather up tools. Take the two screws that are screwed to the counter top. Then I layed on the floor, and at the bottom of the dish washer there is a panel on the front of the machine with screws attaching it. Take those screws out. Pull off cover. Now get a flash light so you can see. They're adjustable feet that the dishwasher are being leveled by. Those feet need to most likely be adjusted down so you can the machine pulled out, and make it possible to work on. now you can you can pull it out, but watch that water supply line does not get hung up, or electrical wires. Once the machine is pulled out there is another cover on the front that I took off. Four screws hold it on. Now you can get to the part to fix it. The other thing you need to know is after taking off the valve and taking off the old 90 fitting. It will need cleaned up. When you put it on the new shut off valve use pipe dope or thread tape so it doesn't leak. Good luck.

Followed the instruction video on your website. It was accurate and valid. The repair should have taken 15 mins., instead one of the screws holding the dispenser was frozen. Tried DW-40, and liquid wrench. Neither worked because the screw was in plastic.Finally got out the Dremel and cutting wheels. Had to cut away enough of the unit until I could get at the screw (it was the center bottom one). Sliced through some more of the housing, then cut a notch in the screw head deep enough so I could apply enough pressure with a flat blade screwdriver to open it. After that things went as smoothly as could be expected.A bad design and cheap materials.

Removed dishwasher from under counter. Removed both cable pulleys and bushings. Threaded new cables and remounted pulleys and bushings. Finally stretched springs onto cables. Checked counter balance and reinstalled dishwasher.

Turned off the power at the main box. Removed the six phillips screws and two bottom hex screws holding the front panel. Removed the two solenoid wires on the old dispenser (Label wire polarity). Removed the eight screws holding the old soap dispensor and took it out. Cleaned the area around the hole. Laid down a bead of silicon caulk around the hole edges. Placed the new dispenser in the hole and replaced the eight screws (do not over tighten). Replaced the two wires on the dispenser solenoid (check polarity). Replaced the front cover (Do not over tighten. Turned on the power and job complete.