GQB9930VG159 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I shut off water and pulled dish washer out removed all water. Turned waasher upside down.
Removed sump housing screws and unscrewed
pc fitting ,replaced new parts. Make sure things are tight before turning on water.

remove water connection; shut off circuit breaker ; follow the suplied directions; reassemble washer . job done - leak gone. Wife happy.

It turned out to be an easier job than I thought it was going to be. Of course, I was still a bit surprised it worked right and didn't leak once I was done.

I started by taking off the servo that opens up the drain valve. I didn't think I could take out and replace the shaft seal from this position so I took the whole motor and drain assembly out by loosening the sump and pump clamps. This allowed me to wiggle out the whole mechanism. One plug and a ground wire had to be undone but that was it. The Push On Nut was the worst part - pain to take off - worse to get a new one on. I wasn't sure (still not) if I could get it in the right place. Once I got everything back together and the servo mount on it seemed to hold the nut in the right place.

I tested it and yelled "it doesn't leak!" my wife promptly said "Yet!".

We have run the dishwasher twice - so far - no leaks!

I couldn't have done it with out PartSelect's prompt service, diagrams, and part photos. I don't want to fix any more appliances but if I have to PartSelect is where I'll come for parts and diagrams.

I removed the broken lower spray arm tower using a scew driver and snapped in the replacement part not needing any tools.

Removed screws on the drain pump filter screens at the back of the dishwasher, unscrewed the check valve, screwed in the replacement unit, and re-affixed the filter screens.

I lived with the drain problem for 6 months and reviewed on line trouble shooting which all pointed me to a pump or solenoid valve problem. I pulled the unit and disassembled everything before noticing that the rubber washer/stopper at the top of the check valve had erroded away and was not preventing water from pumping back into the cabinet when the drain pump kicked on. Always check the condition of this check valve first if you dishwasher is not draining properly. It was so easy once I found the bad part.

Based on what I read from other people and partselect, it was fairly easy to ascertain what was wrong. I removed the solonoid valve by removing the two screws that held in place. Had to clean up the solonoid valve rod due to water leaking into it by running it on a wire brush. Pulled out the stop nut and old seal and replaced it with the new seal. Could not get the new stop nut on but it does not seem to move so let it go. Have to say that reading all the comments certainly helped me with the repair. Additionally, ordered parts by email at 10:30 in the morning and receiving them the very next day. Could not believe they were delivered so quickly.

and there was not supposed to be so I checked the drain and it was clean and I found a part in the back that looked like it was damaged from use and it was so I got a new part and changed it and that fixed the problem. I removed the screen from the bottom rear inside the cabinet that covers the nut and piston and I changed the part and that fixed the problem . Now no water stays in the bottom when the cycle is done.

Pulled the lower left side end of the old door gasket out of door gasket retaining slot and slowly and evenly continued to work my way around the door pulling the door gasket out of the retaining slot until I reached the end. I installed the new gasket into retaining the retaining slot beginning on lower left side and then slowly and evenly working my way around the door inserting the new gasket into the retaining slot. I was careful to make sure the two cutout portions of the new gasket's retaining edge were correctly positioned in the lower corners of the door.

Repaired by watching the video provided on my computer by this site . This video was a life saver and covered every detail. My thanks to this site !!!

Followed the sequence from on line video provided by PartSelect. Knowing the sequence and the secret of the push on nut made the replacement simple. My dishwasher is built in therefore I pulled my dishwasher half way out to gain better access and did not need to disconnect drain or water supply. Just unplugged the power and went to work.

I removed the screws from inside door panel. Took door panel out. Noted the way the old gasket was placed, removed it and replaced with the new gasket. Replaced the door panel. Felt pretty proud of myself until I realized that the door lock wouldn't work when I was going to run it. I have now removed the door panel again and am trying to get the door lock lever to work.

Removed all 8 wheels and inserted the new one after inserting the axles into each wheel. Replacement wheels had a much better connection to the bottom rack and do not anticipate any problems in the future.

Pulled out the top tray fully, popped off the end caps. Removed the tray and placed it on the cabinet top. Popped off the old rollers and snapped on the new rollers. Replaced the tray into the dishwasher, Popped the end caps back on and I was done.

Watched the video and swapped out the parts when they came. One of the arms that one of the rollers attached to was rusted and swollen had to remove the plastic coating and sand in order to get a good roller fit. Went super easy

With coin, to remove the end cap from the front inside of the rail, insert the edge of the coin into the side of the end cap and push the coin to the rear while rotating the end cap to the inside of the tray until it comes free. Don't force. Pepeat for other rail. Repeat to reinstall end caps. You can can now slide out the the tray. Use long nose pliers to remove old rollers and insert new roller(s) on same prong. Do all 4. Reinsert tray and end caps.