GSD5911D00WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Ordered the part online and replaced the hoses. Very easy...took maybe 20 minutes

Went to repair parts on troubleshooting and found check valve assembly to be most common problem. Went to parts diagram to locate assembly and found it somewhat confusing as to exact location. Ordered part(s) on percentage as the problem. Received part next day (great)! Pulled dishwasher out and found I did NOT need to do so to replace check valve which is replaced without having to remove dishwasher. The gasket replacement was not necessary as it seals sump area from bottom of dishwasher and not the valve as it appears on the parts diagram. It took about 2 minutes to replace valve itself and it was the cause of the problem.

Simply screwed in new cap

Removed seven screws that held the inside panel to door. removed inside panel to work area and cleaned. After carefully observing the position of the old gasket, it was easily removed and the new one but in its place. Replaced the door being careful toalign the handle before tightly securing all seven screws. Repair worked, no more leak.

Plumber had suggested trying a new gasket rather than replace the dishwasher. Ordered one and installed it. Cleaned door and installed gasket in about 30 minutes. So far it works great .... and ... cheaper than new dishwasher.

REPLACE CONTROL BOARD - Turn off circuit breaker. Take out lower rack. Remove inside door panel (seven Phillips screws). Hold outside door panel (control board location) in place with bungee cord. Remove push lever (two screws) to facilitate removal of control board. Disconnect control board connectors (five, I think). Remove old control board (two screws and plastic clips). Install new control board (clips, connectors, and two screws). Re-install push lever (two screws). Re-install inside door panel (the main contol lever alignment is a little tricky), seven screws. Remove bungee cord. Put lower rack back in. Turn on circuit breaker. Test dishwasher. Worked perfectly, just like new. Normal amount of water in bottom. "Dry" cycle normal. "Clean" light comes on and stays on until door is opened i.e. normal operation. "Delay" feature also works normally. Dishwasher may last a few more years. Cost of control board: $120 inc. shipping.

I watched several YouTube videos on how to make the repair. It looked very easy but sometimes professionals, because they've done it before, don't point out small tips that would help a DIY homeowner. The latch goes easily into the inner door slot but there's nothing to hold it there. The videos show the inner and outer door being closed together without showing that you have to hold the latch in place while bringing the outer door up to meet the inner door. Any movement of the inner door makes the latch fall out. So I would say it took me 5 times longer to do this repair than it would if I was doing it again.

Removed rack slide end caps. They broke off because of brittleness. Removed rack, then used pliers and/or flat blade screwdriver to remove 4 rollers and axle assemblies. Replaced with new rollers/axles. Return upper rack into slides and installed new end caps. New caps slightly different than old but easily clip into place Upper rack works lile new!

I would like to start-off by saying that I love this site . I've never been even remotely dissatisfied with parts I've ordered and the installation videos are awesome! I would recommend this site to anyone looking to repair appliances. Secondly, I am a retired mechanical designer with over 35 years of experience. I have a broad range of design experience in consumer, governmental, industrial and military part and product design. My opinion about the design having to do directly with my appliance is not very high and after talking with another local parts supplier discovered that this particular design is approximately 20 years old. I wonder how many dishwashers are leaking without the consumer realizing they have this problem. I followed the installation instructions provided by this site verbatim and the dishwasher still leaked like a sieve. This in my opinion goes back to my remarks concerning the design. This is a weak design at best and could benefit from an improvement in that area. After I installed the new parts, the push on nut (upon being seated onto the shaft for the drain valve flapper) was loose and spun freely. The push on nut did not properly compress the seal onto and around the flapper shaft nor into the valve housing. Water leaked through the seal as a result. I disassembled all of the parts again and placed a flat washer between the push on nut and the seal, to help compress the seal onto the flapper shaft and into the valve housing. The washer was a stainless steel flat washer with an ID that fit onto the shaft closely, but was a smaller OD than the seal. The washer was about 1/32" thick. Upon reassembly and observation, the dishwasher leak was stopped with the addition of the flat washer and my issue was resolved.

Pulled unit out of cabinet took two top screws out of spinner spray arm and put back together.Old sprayer was plugged up not letting wash go through.Thanks for helping me fix and not replace unit.Saved at least 400.

I first made a bad assumption that the leaking dishwasher was from the gasket. I replaced the gasket and it still leaked. To find the leak, I took the body off of the dishwasher and ran it to find the leak. It was from the solonoid connection. I took photos of the leaking motor unit and very easily replaced the new motor unit by matching the placement from the photos. The hardest part is tipping the dishwasher on its side and mopping up the water.
It was very easy. All you need is a nut driver and a Phillips screwdriver. Even an over-domesticated, non- tool user can do it.

Turned off electical and water - took fillter screen out of inside, unscrewed cap took out valve and replaced it

Determined not to call a repairman for such a simple problem, I watched your extremely helpful video. The ordered parts came right away and all it took was a screw driver and 30 minutes to take off and replace four rollers. So easy, this 75 year-old grandma could do it!

Each replacement wheel came in two parts: the wheel itself and the clip which had to be pushed through the center hole in the wheel in order to attach each wheel to the carriage that holds dishes. I had difficulty assembling the clips and wheels until I ran the clips under hot water to soften them. This made it possible to assemble the wheels and attach them to the dish carriage. I would have preferred the wheels to have come assembled, particularly given the price of each one.

The replacement of door rubber seal was easy as well as the corner boot tub baffles. I did take the door off to make cleaning and installing seal easy. I wish your web site would recommend if replacing certain parts, additional
parts should be replaced at the same time. For my project I should have
replaced the 3 inch separate seal located inside bottom of door. You can't
see it until removal of the door. I am thankful for the easy to follow
instructions other people wrote and it made the job much less stressful..

Thanks again