GSC5511P00WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I connected one end of hose to the drain using a hose clamp and screwdriver then connected the other end to the dishwasher using anouther hose clamp and a screwdriver..

Removed the white end of the top track. Pulled off the remnants of the rack roller. Slide the rack roller wheel into the track and popped the other end on the top rack (looked at the other rack rollers to see how it fit.) After that, I put the end back on the track.... Note what is the top and what is the bottom of the track end. Realizing that there is a wider area on the track to slide part of the white track end through to get it on without much effort.

Removed the 7 screws from inner side of door; removed set screw from handle; removed inner door cover; pulled old part out; pushed new part in and Voila! Replaced all screws, no problem. Thanks for your great customer service!

The solenoid and linkage was easy to disasemble, but getting the retainer (push on nut) off was difficult without removing the motor and pump. Once removed it was a snap. Getting the pump/motor back onto the pipes was near impossible from underneath. I had to remove the dishwasher from under the countertop to get it back correctly. I would reccomend doing this for this repair, as it made life a lot easier. Unwiring and removing the water supply line was not a problem either. WORKS AS GOOD AS NEW!

Small rubber gasket needed to be replaced. Not the best design by GE, but it has lasted 11 years before leaking.
Needed to remove the solenoid to access the shaft of the valve. Tough to push gasket into place, but eventually it fit in.

Removing the end caps on the rack's sliding arms was the hard part. It took some arm-wrestling and prying with a screwdriver to get them off. Replacing the rollers was a snap. Getting the end caps back on again was easier than removing them.

Took off the end cap- hardest part- took some twisting-be careful not to break it. After that slid out the old part and just popped the new one in. Then it took a little while again to put the end cap back in. No tools needed.

Removed the rack.
Removed the roller bar.
Removed the roller base from the rack.
Removed the roller from the roller bar.
Replaced in reverse order.

DONE.

As the washer is slightly undersized to perform correctly, following standard instructions to replace the drain valve staff seal and retaining washer I wound Teflon tape between the retaining ring and washer to slightly increase pressure on the washer and seal the opening.

I first shut off water supply and disconnected the water line and drain hose to the disposal. Then I pulled the dishwasher out from the cabinet unplugged the electrical wire from the wall and laid it on it's back side. I then laid out the new motor and compared parts to parts. It was a direct replacement of the same motor except for very minor changes. I unscrewed the support bracket, then unscrewed the bottom clamp that joined the motor and the rubber connector to the dishwasher. I also decided to replace that part also. That part was removed by using my hand to unscrew it. It has large threads that are not very recognizable when looking at the part. It unscrews counterclockwise like a normal screw. You have to hold the inside piece while you screw the new one back in place. I put it as tight as I could by hand. I would recommend doing so on all motor replacements due to that part not looking so good and if it leaked you would have to take everything apart again to change it out. That part is a separate purchase and it is not included with the kit. Then I took the other clamp to the plastic connector off. I then unplugged the electrical connections, there were only two and they were both exact connections for the replacement motor. After that the entire motor was separated from the dishwasher and I went slipped the new motor into place connected two clamps and made sure everything was reconnected. I slid the dishwasher in place, reconnected the power wire, the drain hose, water supply. I checked for leaks after restoring water pressure. Then ran the dishwasher through a complete cycle and it works just fine. Total repairs cost about 150.00 and the dishwasher appears to be brand new again. I took one look at the diagrams and never had to refer back to them. They had plenty different diagrams and the first option was mine and that was all I needed. I would recommend this option to anyone.

Removed stops on top rack. Removed rack, removed all rollers, replaced with the new ones. replace rack in machine replaced stops.

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

There was no mention of a very slight rub of silicone for lubrication. I have always utilized this on all "O" rings with good results!

Remove wooden top and pulled out hose from spray arm. Removed spray arm. Installed top hose fitting using a bit of silicone grease for ease of installation. Reinstall spray arm. Stuff hose in same position as old hose. Lay dishwasher on it's back and remove old hose from pump by removing clamp. Replace new hose in same position and reclamp. Stand dishwasher back up and reinstall top. Wife is now happy! I could do this again in half of the time.

So easy, even I was able to do it. Slide tabs back on defective basket and remove both sides, then slide the tabs onto new basket and place in dishwasher. All Done!