GDT680SSH8SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

The Mid Spray Arm Assembly was not spinning due to a dish that was in placed the dishwasher that was too high and hitting the arm. When it spun until it broke the center shaft. Replacement was easy. After removing power I pulled the upper tray out and removed the Conduit Mid Tiered Assembly by unsnapping it from the tray. I twisted off the broken spindle of the damaged arm assembly from the Conduit Mid Tiered Assembly and inserted the new arm and gently pushed it until it snapped into the Mid Tiered Assembly. Reinstalled the assembled parts by snapping into the tray making sure it was centered.

So after noticing some horrid food waste build up in my 9 year old dishwasher, I determined it wasn't heating the water during the wash cycle. I came on here to check how to replace the heating element and was surprised when the flood switch was instead strongly recommended as the first repair step.

I ordered the part, and prepped the dishwasher for the repair (Pro-tip: Clothes pin attached to the bottom of the flood switch wiring harness ensures it doesn't slip down below the opening during the part swap!). The part swap and reassembly only took 5-10 mins or so after prep and dishwasher is now heating water and running great again. Many thanks to partselect.com for the detailed installation guides/videos and the parts recommendations!

Removed the top two screws that hold the dishwasher to the cabinet , remove the two screws on the bottom panel and remove the panel. Screw the levelers all of the way up and pull out the dishwasher about 6 to 8 inch. Hook the new cabe on the spring and pull around pulley and attach it to the door bracket. I replaced both cables. Reverse to complete.

The base of the spray arm literally just spins a little bit into place like a luer lock. Takes two seconds to replace.

When new gasket arrived almost two weeks after it was sent out from Green Bay, I took out old gasket, marking which side was in and which out.
Then, with hands, fit new gasket in place making sure it was centered.
No leaking; it worked.
Thanks.

I tested Heating Element with Ohm Meter-Direct Short (if open it would have been bad and I would need to replace the element. Per the Website Troubleshooting for GE dishwasher, it said Heating Element (65%), Float Switch (32%), or Computer Board (only 3% Chance of it being board). So I ordered Float Switch. Later I noticed that the dishwasher would not change wash cycles from Heavy, Normal or Light.
So I turned the Circuit Breaker on and off. This fixed the Wash Cycle.
When the Float Switch Came in, I installed it in a few minutes watching the video on the GE Troubleshooting Page. Later when it was running I checked the operation and when I opened the door, the wife says seeing the steaming water, You fixed it, the Water is Hot now ! It was all about Hot Water, not the Heating Element at all ! And I think everything was fixed when I flipped the Circuit Breaker on and off and re-set the computer board. I think replacing the Float Switch was good maintenance, cause it was really dirty and needed to be replaced soon anyway. And it may have avoided my wife's next misdiagnosis with our dishwasher. This was 2 weeks ago, and all is well.
Sincerely,
Scott

Replaced all 3 spray arms in less than 10 minutes.The top one came in two pieces,the mounting bracket and the arm.Snap the bracket on the dishwasher first , then attach the arm to the bracket.

Just snap part in position quick to do.

Simply removed old gasket by hand, lined up center of new gasket (white dot was printed on the center of new gasket) with the tub latch and pressed new gasket into place. We have used the dishwasher about a dozen times since and hasn't leaked a drop.

My granddaughter's fian'ce actially replaced the pump.
He pulled the dishwasher out, tipped it over and quickly and easily replaced the pump.
I had already snapped the converter on to the pump so it was ready to hook up. I had read previous messages that this part had a converter.
After putting the washer back in place we set it on a light wash to test it.
It went very well.

Bottom rack came complete with all racks. Only had to transfer the (2) side bumper guards,

I replaced the Flood Switch Part Number: WD21X10519.
I found that be removing the bottom front cover under dishwasher door, there was a small black plastic clamp holding up the wiring cable. By disconnecting the clamp, it gave me a few more inching of wire inside the machine, which made disconnecting old flood switch easier. It also help in installing the new flood switch. Then finally i reinstall the clamp cable under the machine to finish the job.

2 hose clamps, connect the wire with the wire adaptor suppled

Followed the instructions on the video, it was pretty straight forward. It was helpful to know what to expect before hand like removing accumulated water in the drain before removing the flood switch so as not to have that water drain under the dishwasher. Knowing to have a nut driver with magnetic tip was helpful in removing and reinserting the screws. all in all it was pretty easy repair.

Researched what others have posted about on Parts select. That really helped with the diagnosis! Took a chance on a $28 part. Repairman was going to charge $150 just to show up, then diagnose, leave for 2 months while waiting for the part, charge another $150 plus the part to fix…
Just had to pull out dishwasher far enough to take the water supply line off. Then the water inlet solenoid then 2 more screws and a 2 pronged plug reattach water supply then done! 15 minutes MAX!!!