GDF650SMJ2ES General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Repair went fine, getting the right pump was the problem. I started with my local appliance parts house, they ordered part came in 3 days. Upon picking it up I noticed that the pump was shaped slightly different and the electrical hook up was totally different. Asking the parts guy what happened he said they must have sent the wrong pump. Returned it for credit and ordered it again. Four days later the same exact thing occurs. Parts guy credits my account and says better go directly to GE. Wait 10 days for GE, for this part and once again same odd looking pump with wrong electrical plug. My son who is a welder by trade asks me if there is a packet of parts in carton and yes there is. He says that perhaps there is a converter for the electrical. That was the solution no one told us that pump was universal and needed the adapter. Not even the 2 different tecks at first house. Perhaps that should be stated in the part would have saved us tons of time. Thanks D

Dishwasher is under 2yrs old and suddenly failed to drain due to the drain pump not working. I read the reviews on how easy it was to change and went ahead and purchased one. After removing the screw from the appliance bracket under the counter and the two screws from the base plate, it was easy to pull the dishwasher from under the counter and away to flip to its side. I would recommend draining the drain hose first and making sure no water is in the tub. Keep a towel nearby. Removing the drain pump was simple. I needed a nose tip pliers to remove one of the hose clamps and a screwdriver for the other clamp. Once the pump was removed, I opened the old pump by twisting the top part while pressing the tabs to remove upper housing. There was a broken piece of glass that had wedged itself in the mechanism which prevented the pump from working. I wish I had checked that first, before purchasing a new drain pump. I kept the old pump as a backup for the future. It took no more than 20 minutes to get the pump replaced and the dishwasher back in place. Dishwasher drains just as new. By the way, costed under $100 with delivery. An appliance repair company wanted $250!!
Not the first time PartSelect saved me money and won’t be my last!

Replaced heating element. This was the path of least resistance but the problem persisted. I tried resetting the dishwasher but still nothing. My last resort is the circuit board. I checked the relays on the old board and they are fine so it must be something else on the circuit board. The dishwasher is not really that old (4 years) and everything else is fine. Just ordered the board so I really hope this fixes the problem.

The problem is described perfectly at the start of this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxPpRjxVyPo

This video, between 5:30 min and 7:10 min of the video, led me to believe it was the user interface module not the master control board.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxPpRjxVyPo

This video showed me how to replace the UI board on my exact model of dishwasher.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2scYMl-0f8s

I checked all the drain lines and filter for blockage. All looked good. I unplugged the unit and unscrewed the two screws adhereing the dishwasker to the counter. I shopvacced the water out of the bottom of the unit, slid it out, and carefully placed it on its back to access the pump. I unplugged the power to the pump, removed the intake and outake ring fasteners. Carefully removed the pump and inserted the new part, mopping up water as I went. Replace the rings, plugged in power to the pump, righted the unit and put it back. Replaced filter with the one that came with the kit.

Followed video instructions and all went went well.

I follow a YouTuber who had a semillar GE dishwasher model number. He was very helpful through the repair process.

A noisy dishwasher and water coming from underneath was being caused by a torn hose that is factory connected to the diverter. It was a little difficult to see at first as the hose sits slightly kinked when in it's normal position. Access to the diverter involves removal of the circulation pump. I ordered a new diverter which comes with metal screw on clamps. The main difficulty in installing is the positioning and alignment of the diverter and pump. My first effort resulted in a ripping of the attached diverter hose as I attempted to secure. I ordered another diverter. This time I used a lubricant to allow movement of the connecting hoses and made sure to not overtighten the clamps. I used a small mirror to make sure that the various hoses sat properly. Alignment took a bit of time. I then gently tightened the hoses. I ran the dishwasher, and found a leak, meaning that I needed to tighten these clamps a bit more. This is a doable repair that needs patience. The dishwasher is now very quiet and runs great!

Replaced old gasket with new one. More difficult than expected, because new gasket was much stiffer than old one. Also, the yellow centering spot on gasket (to line up with top latch) was nearly impossible to see. Unfortunately, this did not solve the problem for me, so money was wasted. Bought new dishwasher.

the design of this part is easy to break when closing the top rack.

there is a hub that clicks in place and a spinner within this that makes the water spray evenly on the top of the tub of the dishwasher

the part broke when closing the rack [a dish too tall hit it]

it took less than 5 minutes to replace as the part just clicks into two edge spots i did this without removing the rack or even looking into the tub all by feel

Took old valve assembly off and replaced with new assenbly

just bolted on the new one and hooked up the hose

Opened the door, put arm on bottom, slid in and twisted. Very, very easy. The right part means a lot. Thank you very much. “ Ol Stump”.

Chances are your Lower spray arm is worn or jets are off. Replacing this part is very easy. Grab the base of the lower spray arm, twist and pull straight up. Place the new one in and twist lock in place. Repair complete!

Shut off power to the unit, removed the front lower trim and under counter screws, then I disconnected the wiring from under the door leading to the UI at the top edge of the door. Removed the front door, separated and disassembled the outer door cover, I then removed the UI control board from its housing and the clear cover and reassembled the parts in reverse order and turned the power back on. FOLLOW the included instructions on connecting the pins on the new UI by cross reference the model number.