GDF610PGJ5WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I ordered the part recommended.Replaced,still no power.The next part was going to be another $175.00.It was better to stop and get a refund than put $300.00 into a six year old.dishwasher.I should be getting a refund any day now.Parts select was very helpful in that regard.

The dishwasher was not heating anymore. I suspected it was the float/flood switch, so I got that ordered. I went ahead and ordered the element also and I'm glad I did! Even though the element was good, when I tested it I loosened the nut holding the element in. When I retightened it there was NO WAY for me to get it watertight again and it kept dripping out the bottom. Mine was made in 2019, and the gaskets on the element that came with it were a terrible design - the metal flange on the element was about as big as the hole in the middle of the gasket so water just leaked between the gasket "donut" hole and the element with no way to seal. The element I bought for this repair just in case had a totally redesigned gasket that sealed right up and didn't have the same design issue. So beware, if you are fiddling with the element in your process, be sure the gasket will reseal - or just have an extra new element in case it is the old (bad) design.

The flood switch was easy to find (with dishwasher on its back) in a white housing under the black circular sump.

Getting the actual switch out of that housing took some doing. I ended up using 4 small kebab sticks - toothpicks might work better- all 4 tabs have to be pulled out at the same time.

So I ended up changing out both the element (which was good but started leaking) and the float switch.

IMPORTANT!!! Before you put the dishwasher back in, you probably need to reset the thermal cutoff (TCO) on the back of the dishwasher. Follow the wire up from the element and it is the first thing it goes to. There should be a small (3mm) black button that has popped out. Press that back in. With your repair (float switch or element) it should start heating again - at least mine did.

I watched the video on how to replace the parts and it was very easy. Unplug the power cord, remove the kick plate and insulation. Remove the small square metal cover, remove the 2 screws that hold the control board plate. Unplug the wires, put the control board plate on the counter and replace the board. Then put everything back in the order that you removed it. Plug in the power cord. Very easy to fix. I ordered the door latch but didn't need it so I will just keep it as a spare. It took me less than 45 minutes to replace the part. The problem was the control board. Parts select saved me about 400.00. Thanks, John.

I watched a YouTube video that showed how to to do this. The first trick is finding the right video. This one worked best for me / my model.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sesf0BS8fzM

The first few I watched were for models with the user display on the top of the door, and you have to open the dishwasher to see it. Mine shows the display on the outside. Look for the video that has a round plastic "vent" on the inside of the door. You will have to loosen it with some sort of tool in order to remove the display once you get the door taken apart. In the video, they used needle-nose pliers opened wide. My NN pliers don't open that wide, so I used two screw drivers. Pealing off the display is a bit challenging. I was afraid I was going to break the little plastic pins that hold it on. The rest is not too hard though, and it went back together quite easily, even though I did break a plastic piece that 0ne of the UI Control Board screws goes into. Oh well, now it has three screws holding it instead of four.

Opened door slid in new rack, came with wheels

Replaced bad roller carrier with a new one.

Shut off power at breaker, remove two screws anchoring DW to counter top . Slide DW out far enough to access door latch, disconnect electrical wiring plug, remove two Phillips head screws, install new door latch, repeat installation in reverse order.

I fixed this issue by replacing the Dishwasher Tub Gasket (PS11774412) and the gasket on the bottom of the door (PS11700870). Replacing the tub gasket is very easy and straight forward. You just pull it off and put the new one on. The door gasket was much more complicated. See the steps required for replacement below:

The * indicates the part number in the diagram I am referencing

1. Remove the Toe Kick Assembly (*759)
2. Remove screws holding dishwasher to counter and pull the dishwasher out
3. With door shut, disengage the springs on both sides from the arm hinge assemblies *800 (I did this by taking the rope off the pulley hinge *734)
4. Disconnect the wire going from the dishwasher body to the door (there are two or three supports for the wire that need to be removed for it to come free)
5. Open the door about 15 degrees and pull the door upward (only one angle will work for removing the door)
6. Place the door on its front on the ground
7. Remove the two screws (*745) that hold one of the arm hinge assemblies to the door and pull the hinge away from the door (you don't need to pull it all of the way out)
8. Pull the old gasket out to the side and install the new gasket

Accessed YouTube video specific to my Model and replacement part.

https://youtu.be/TI8cUjy5YOE?si=3b0Dkk16WLl2e33D

As outlined above, the replacement took a first timer about 60 minutes to complete and resolved the issue.

Unscrewed brackets on top of dishwasher from underside of counter. Removed dress plate at bottom of dishwasher. Pulled dishwasher out of opening to access door hinge. Disconnected pulley cable/rope from each side door hinge. Let go slowly.
There is a 1/4 bolt holding the door tight to the hinge. With door closed (still) the screw is on bottom of bottom edge. Use wrench to loosen and remove.
Once both bolts are out, open door. Pull door away from dishwasher just enough (1-3 inches) to slide out old gasket. Prior to removing take note of existing gasket orientation and installation. Slide old gasket out one side and slide new gasket in.
Push in door tight to hinges,close door, use wrench to put bolts back in. Reattach pulley cable/rope to each side. Push back into opening. Reattach to counter. Put dress plate on bottom back.
Return dishwasher to regular use.

There was no repair -- it was a simple snap-in replacement of lower spray arm assembly. The shaft holding the lower spray arm in place is plastic so of course it broke when a utensil blocked the arm from spinning.

I appreciate the Parts Select company for enabling me to purchase a replacement part though that allows me to keep my old dishwasher working.

Removed old spray arm. Installed new one. New model spray arm doesn’t need metal heat shields.

Standard repair process to replace UI. The piece worth noting is the strange behavior on initial install. After setting the jumpers to the correct pins for my model based on the instructions, the board would initially not respond. It was only after i change the jumpers to a setting for another model and put power on the board that i got a response. I then set the jumpers back to the pins for my model that the board began to respond normally. Its been fine since.

damage to gasket (had a slit in the area of the utensii baskets.
causing lower right corner of gasket to come out. caused leakage to floor from the lower right corner of door...

As I am 77 yrs of age I was leary of diy but thanks to the reps of
"Parts Select" I actually was able to put in the new gasket myself.It did take some time and lots of patience as it had to be seated correctly..I also had to make sure the new gasket was in the groove as it is supposed to be.

Repair went fine, getting the right pump was the problem. I started with my local appliance parts house, they ordered part came in 3 days. Upon picking it up I noticed that the pump was shaped slightly different and the electrical hook up was totally different. Asking the parts guy what happened he said they must have sent the wrong pump. Returned it for credit and ordered it again. Four days later the same exact thing occurs. Parts guy credits my account and says better go directly to GE. Wait 10 days for GE, for this part and once again same odd looking pump with wrong electrical plug. My son who is a welder by trade asks me if there is a packet of parts in carton and yes there is. He says that perhaps there is a converter for the electrical. That was the solution no one told us that pump was universal and needed the adapter. Not even the 2 different tecks at first house. Perhaps that should be stated in the part would have saved us tons of time. Thanks D