CDT835SSJ2SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I removed the old roller wheels and the new roller wheels snapped together and the simple instructions made the repair quick and simple..

I determined the guide rail on one side had broke when the white plastic bearings fell out of their track. I decided to replace both sides at the same time, so I ordered 2. They arrived quickly and I installed them and placed the middle rack back into the dishwasher. Went together fairly easily. I took pictures before removing the guides from the rack, so I would remember how to put the new ones back one when they arrived. Very happy with this DIY repair that easily would have taken much longer and would have been way more expensive! Thank you!

Looked upm the problem it said door wasn.t closed so cause was the door latch. put in the new one no change so I bought a new dishwasher

Bottom rack came complete with all racks. Only had to transfer the (2) side bumper guards,

My granddaughter's fian'ce actially replaced the pump.
He pulled the dishwasher out, tipped it over and quickly and easily replaced the pump.
I had already snapped the converter on to the pump so it was ready to hook up. I had read previous messages that this part had a converter.
After putting the washer back in place we set it on a light wash to test it.
It went very well.

Pulled washer out of space to access cables to the door. Removed moved the cables by stretching springs and unhooking cable from door. Disconnected wire from door to machine in body of machine. Opened door an lifed on an angle that allowed door to be lifted out of hinges. Unscrew and remove hinges on both sides. Remove by simply pulling them straight in direction of the bottom of the door. Then unscrew bolts on either side that are now exposed after taking hinges out. Then push inside of door up and remove. Unscrew the control board unit. Un plug cable to control board. Remove bezel cover. Then carefully unsnap unit case and remove board. Replace with the new board. However since this is a replacement part it must be configured for your machine. Instructions shou you the configuration. However where I ran into a problem was dining out how to set it. There were no switches. What I learned was that altouch it looked like one piece the jumper connections actually were four separate pieces that were tightly fitted together. In order to get the configuration you simply have to lift the jumper connector up. Once done reverse process and your done. If I did not run into that one issue repair time should be 30 minutes tops.

The only directions that came with the new pump and filter, was how to replace the filter. I had to find a You Tube video to show me where the drain pump was located., and the way to get to it. I also had to figure out how the new pump was hooked up electrically, since the new pump did not work with the plug in on the machine.

Parts diagram shows Striker can be popped out with screwdriver. Not true. It has a screw bolting it internally. Impossible to get to unless you disassemble the entire door. We took a power drill and small drill bit and bore it out like a cavity in a tooth. Needle nose pliers to extract the screw. Pretend your a dentist. Fixed it in 5 minutes. Replacement fit tight. A+

Bought replacement rack transferred all the accessories from the old to the new. Mostly snap-in-place.

Needed GE Technician to install. Partselect.com had to send a second replacement rack because the first one was defective. When the second on arrived, IT TOO WAS DEFECTIVE. After the Tech tried to install the second replacement, he was forced to remove a part from the original rusted rack in order to get the 2nd replacement to even stay in the rails of the machine. Tech was great, but the Partselect.com parts were unusable as sent.

I had to replace a docking port. Parts Select had the part, labeled as stainless, just as this survey indicates. Well folks, the part I received is 100% plastic. It it the correct part, just not stainless. Should it have been stainless due to a faulty plastic design? I don’t know.

I used Parts Select for the simple directions for installation. I was eventually linked to a YouTube video for a completely different docking port. Does my part slip on? Does it press in? I don’t know.

Needless to say, this has been a cheap but frustrating ordeal that is not yet over. Thanks for having the stainless, but really plastic, part and for having directions for some other part available.

Due to the almost zero clearance between the recirculating pump and the floor, getting the pan to line up and engage the tabs on the dishwasher frame can seem to be an impossible task. I did accomplish the task as instructed in the owners installation manual once.

However, I observed that the leak was just a drop at a time only on the deep clean mode where water recycling was in constant use during a long wash cycle. So, I recommend to slide the pan in the relative position without trying to engage the tabs and you will still accomplish the reason for the leak pan. Remember, the purpose of the Leak Pan is to protect your floor, so use it the easy way as I am.

Took out 2 screws that held machine in cabinet. Pulled out dishwasher about 4 inches. removed old latch and disconnected electric connection. Put in new latch, reconnected electric connection, replaced screws, pushed machine back in cabinet, replaced 2 screws that hold machine in place. Works like new!

Installed new heater by pulling unit out of it’s cubby hole. Was able to gain access to the nuts that hold it down and make the seal, as well as the electrical connections. Re-installed. Helpful if you remove both dish baskets and utencil basket for access when installing heater.

Took out the old heating assembly and installed the new one
this did not solve my problem and I ended up buying a new dishwasher and returned the part
Spent as much in shipping to get the part and return it as the part cost itself
Next time I will just replace the dishwasher in the first place.