CDT835SMJ2DS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Didn't actually do the compete repair but got close. Pulled out dishwasher, disconnected and checked continuity on the existing heating element (about 16 ohms) the new element was also about 16 ohms. This indicates they both were working fine and no need for replacement. Next step would have been to swap the elements would have been simple. Tried to replace main board as well, still not the issue so giving up and replacing the dishwasher. It wasn't the high temp cut off thermostat either incidentally and no error codes in maintenance mode. Check continuity of your existing element before ordering to save aggravation.

Open the washer, remove the bottom dish rack, then twist off the bottom water sprayer. Use a screwdriver to remove the mounting/ stabilizing screws so you can slide out the dishwasher. Close the dishwasher and slide it out. Underneath at the back there are two wires powering the drying element, carefully remove them. Use an adjustable wrench to remove the two plastic mounting nuts for the drying element. Open the washer and remove the old drying element, and insert the new element. Reassemble the dishwasher in the reverse order if disassembly.

1. Turn off breaker supplying power to dishwasher in electrical panel
2. Open dishwasher door
3. Unscrew the screws that secure the dishwasher to the counter.
4. Tip dishwasher forward. Identify the non-functioning door latch. It looks exactly like the replacement. Unclip the wire harness from the door latch.
5. On the inside of the dishwasher, there are 2 screws directly under the door latch. Unscrew them and carefully set aside.
6. Remove old door latch.
7. Set new door latch in place. Holding securely, replace screws removed in step 5. Toward the end they get a little tougher to screw in.
8. Plug wire harness into new door latch.
9. Re-align dishwasher and re-secure to counter in previous position.
10. Test latch to make sure it closes properly.
11. Turn on breaker in electrical panel.
The dishwasher should now function properly.

Replaced transition piece, gasket, and vent cover. The root cause problem is that the factory installed gasket was too thick and would not allow sufficient thread engagement. The replacement gasket was about 25% thinner and worked perfectly.

We bought this GE dishwasher new. After 9 months, we started noticing the dishes were not cleaning well. Eventually, the machine just filled up with water and drained. The washing arms didn't work. I replaced fill valve, but that didn't solve it. A GE Tech ran a diagnostic and informed us the pump motor was bad. It was off warranty and repairs would be $300. However, he noted it was easy to do on my own. Two pipe clamps. The part from PartsSelect was 40% less than ordering from GE and was a GE part. Replacement took half an hour and that includes getting it wrong once (one connection leaked due to a bad job attaching the pipe clamp). Works like a champ now.

Repair went fine, getting the right pump was the problem. I started with my local appliance parts house, they ordered part came in 3 days. Upon picking it up I noticed that the pump was shaped slightly different and the electrical hook up was totally different. Asking the parts guy what happened he said they must have sent the wrong pump. Returned it for credit and ordered it again. Four days later the same exact thing occurs. Parts guy credits my account and says better go directly to GE. Wait 10 days for GE, for this part and once again same odd looking pump with wrong electrical plug. My son who is a welder by trade asks me if there is a packet of parts in carton and yes there is. He says that perhaps there is a converter for the electrical. That was the solution no one told us that pump was universal and needed the adapter. Not even the 2 different tecks at first house. Perhaps that should be stated in the part would have saved us tons of time. Thanks D

I checked all the drain lines and filter for blockage. All looked good. I unplugged the unit and unscrewed the two screws adhereing the dishwasker to the counter. I shopvacced the water out of the bottom of the unit, slid it out, and carefully placed it on its back to access the pump. I unplugged the power to the pump, removed the intake and outake ring fasteners. Carefully removed the pump and inserted the new part, mopping up water as I went. Replace the rings, plugged in power to the pump, righted the unit and put it back. Replaced filter with the one that came with the kit.

I got lucky and found the diagnostic test instructions tucked inside the washer under the kick plate. From there I ran the tests on each component until I narrowed it down to the pump. The pump cost me less than local dealers. The install went well. Watched the online videos to make sure I was doing it right. Was actually very easy and saved hundreds over a service call.

Replaced heating element. This was the path of least resistance but the problem persisted. I tried resetting the dishwasher but still nothing. My last resort is the circuit board. I checked the relays on the old board and they are fine so it must be something else on the circuit board. The dishwasher is not really that old (4 years) and everything else is fine. Just ordered the board so I really hope this fixes the problem.

The installation is fairly straightforward, basically one plug in electrical connection and two plumbing connections. The smaller of the two plumbing connections can be tricky because of the hose clamp... The original clamps are one time use crimp style. The replacements are standard hose clamps, which means the section where the tension mechanism is, is a bit wider than the clamp itself... This can cause the rubber collar on the dishwasher to slide off/separate from the pump part itself when tightening the hose clamp. If you are careful and align things just right, it will work like a charm. The best advice I have is to take your time and make sure the connections are snug without being too tight, otherwise it could leak and/or something else could break.

Started by removing dishwasher, including disconnecting power, water and drain line. Then turned washer on back. Electrical connector to old wash pump was a little tricky to remove as the release tab isn’t straightforward, I used a tiny screwdriver and jiggled it around till it came loose. The factory hose clamps (2) are crimped on, but if you can find the tail end you can work them loose with a screwdriver by prying the tail up from the body of the clamp. Once you have the electrical connector and the two clamps removed, the pump comes of easily with a twisting motion. The new wash motor came with new clamps (2 extra). When sliding the rubber boots on the new pump in place, it will require a twisting motion to position it correctly, make sure (I didn’t and had to go through the whole process twice) that the rubber boot is not folded under on the bottom where it’s hard to see. Tighten clamps carefully and don’t over tighten. Plug in electrical connector and you’re ready to reinstall dishwasher.

the actual gasket tub seal was easy, 10 minutes. The trim tub gaskets were a pain because I had to uninstall the dishwasher (not plumbing or electrical) then pull it out from the cabinet, remove old trim and re-install. Re-leveled dishwasher, screwed into side of cabinets but it still leaks. Can't figure out where but after replacing all the trim and gaskets its very frustrating.

Nightmare!!! The Striker latch did not pop out with a screwdriver as it was supposed to. The whole dishwasher needs to be disconnected and pulled out, then front door removed and totally disassembled to remove the screw to replace the striker latch. lots of work to replace a striker latch. Bad design!

the design of this part is easy to break when closing the top rack.

there is a hub that clicks in place and a spinner within this that makes the water spray evenly on the top of the tub of the dishwasher

the part broke when closing the rack [a dish too tall hit it]

it took less than 5 minutes to replace as the part just clicks into two edge spots i did this without removing the rack or even looking into the tub all by feel

Shut off power at breaker, remove two screws anchoring DW to counter top . Slide DW out far enough to access door latch, disconnect electrical wiring plug, remove two Phillips head screws, install new door latch, repeat installation in reverse order.