GQB9939VF119 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I just plugged in the model number and a screen came up that showed all the part numbers that made up the model. picked out the parts that we needed and ordered it and within 2 day we had the new basket that we needed for our dish washer.
the service and ease was better that going to the appliance store and picking up the basket.
I was very happy the the service.
Donald Brown

i removed the old power tower with a regular plumbers pliers spining SLOWLY and firmly but no too firm until it broke loose and unscrewed. I reintalled the new tower oppisite how i removed it being carefull not to overtighten. all is well. it was very ez, so much in fact that my wife thought she was going to be able to read a book waiting for me "all afternoon" to fix it! Bad news, I had to take her shopping!

i was impressed with the ease and speed of normal delivery of this part. this is a quality company. JS

Simply screwed in new cap

turn wand counter clockwise until it's out,replace it with the new one.DON'T OVERTIGHTEN!

Went to repair parts on troubleshooting and found check valve assembly to be most common problem. Went to parts diagram to locate assembly and found it somewhat confusing as to exact location. Ordered part(s) on percentage as the problem. Received part next day (great)! Pulled dishwasher out and found I did NOT need to do so to replace check valve which is replaced without having to remove dishwasher. The gasket replacement was not necessary as it seals sump area from bottom of dishwasher and not the valve as it appears on the parts diagram. It took about 2 minutes to replace valve itself and it was the cause of the problem.

Removed rack slide end caps. They broke off because of brittleness. Removed rack, then used pliers and/or flat blade screwdriver to remove 4 rollers and axle assemblies. Replaced with new rollers/axles. Return upper rack into slides and installed new end caps. New caps slightly different than old but easily clip into place Upper rack works lile new!

Pulled unit out of cabinet took two top screws out of spinner spray arm and put back together.Old sprayer was plugged up not letting wash go through.Thanks for helping me fix and not replace unit.Saved at least 400.

I would like to start-off by saying that I love this site . I've never been even remotely dissatisfied with parts I've ordered and the installation videos are awesome! I would recommend this site to anyone looking to repair appliances. Secondly, I am a retired mechanical designer with over 35 years of experience. I have a broad range of design experience in consumer, governmental, industrial and military part and product design. My opinion about the design having to do directly with my appliance is not very high and after talking with another local parts supplier discovered that this particular design is approximately 20 years old. I wonder how many dishwashers are leaking without the consumer realizing they have this problem. I followed the installation instructions provided by this site verbatim and the dishwasher still leaked like a sieve. This in my opinion goes back to my remarks concerning the design. This is a weak design at best and could benefit from an improvement in that area. After I installed the new parts, the push on nut (upon being seated onto the shaft for the drain valve flapper) was loose and spun freely. The push on nut did not properly compress the seal onto and around the flapper shaft nor into the valve housing. Water leaked through the seal as a result. I disassembled all of the parts again and placed a flat washer between the push on nut and the seal, to help compress the seal onto the flapper shaft and into the valve housing. The washer was a stainless steel flat washer with an ID that fit onto the shaft closely, but was a smaller OD than the seal. The washer was about 1/32" thick. Upon reassembly and observation, the dishwasher leak was stopped with the addition of the flat washer and my issue was resolved.

My GE Potscrubber 940 would not drain on all cycles. After checking the basin traps and not finding any blockage in the water drain line, I suspected that the problem was with the drain solenoid, since the motor was running smooth. I removed the dishwasher, primarily by removing the water supply line on the left side from the water inlet valve and disconnecting the electrical connections. Make sure you turn off the water and electricity before you do any work on the dishwasher. With the dishwasher taken out and on its side, the drain solenoid unit will be visible near the motor in the middle assuming that the front bottom panel of the dishwasher has been removed. I found mine to be all crudded up. I removed the electrical connections and the solenoid bracket. Then by using my multimeter, I found a bad resistance reading (infinity) for the solenoid. I ordered the Drain Solenoid Repair Kit and replaced all the items except the plastic rocker arm. Naturally, just reverse your steps to get the dishwasher back together. Turn the water and electricity back on and fire her up. Check for proper operation and any leaks and you should be done.

My suggestion is to replace all four rollers at the same time since they are all the same age. Fortunately, four rollers come in each pack you order. You need to remove the end cap on borh metal rack rods which takes a little doing. You cannot just pull the caps off. You need to twist the end cap to free up the little catch at the rear of the end cap. Once the end caps are off, just pull of the old rollers and install the new ones, replace the end caps and you're done.

The repair was as simple as it could be. The real story is being able to find and replace the missing wheels. Your website makes it real simple to find the proper parts, order them and receive them in a few days. Your parts person; Jason was very nice to send me a little note concerning my order. I appreciate that personal touch. I will be a regular customer with that kind of service. Well done/Good Job.
Bill

over time the upper rack axles broke so the rack would just come out of the rollers. I ordered the parts from here and had to youtube how to get the stops out so I didn't have to unscrew the metal guides out making an easy job into a hard one. all you have to do is with a flat head screw driver is slightly bend the plastic end part of the stop which is in the metal guide that stops the wheels from coming out of the guides. once you bend out the plastic end you then turn the stop to get it out of the metal guides. if you youtube it its very easy. just be easy when you bend the plastic piece because I can see it breaking. I didn't break mine so the job was very very easy and took all of about 5 to 10 minutes to complete the entire job. I love this site it had real life info to help out when you need to do a job and trouble shoot your appliance.

Removed the lower rack. Took off the old wheels. Put the axles on the new wheels which took a little manpower, but became easier once you did a couple (there are 8 wheels). Then snapped the new wheels on the rack which was really simple. The new design is much improved to the old one. The wheels glide better, then they ever did. We're sorry we didn't think of this repair years ago and the cost was a fraction of the cost of a new dishwasher.

installed new rollers per diagram then installed side ends into sides. Couldn`t have been easier. Dishwasher is like new now.

Snapped right in