GSB9250KD119 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

took off the end clip, pulled the old wheel off and unclipped the bracket from the rack, then clipped the new assembly on...Simple!

I have to be honest. At first I called a repair person, but it was Sunday so he couldn't come till the following week. Then my incredibly intelligent, industrious, and internet-savvy wife found your website. We saw that others had had the same problem. The part we needed was right there.... voila! 2 days later I had the part in hand. Not being the most handy of handymen, I followed the directions that others who had the same problem had posted. Yep, it was that simple -- And a heck of a lot cheaper than a repair person. Your website was very valuable, and I definitely will refer it to others looking for a part for a home repair job.

Followed the very excellent instructions provided on website by Hotpoint/GE

Installation was very easy! Rack works perfectly now. Only problem...bought four sets instead of 4 parts since the order form didn't say it included 4 in each pack.

UNPACKED WHEELS AND CLIP. USING NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS SQUEEZED WHEEL TIP TO INSERT IN WHEEL. REMOVED OLD WHEELS AND RETAINER BY HAND. INSTALLED NEW WHEELS INSTALLED AND NEW RETAINERS

There was a video on the page as the part. Done in a flash. The axle was a little hard to get into the wheel so I soaked it in a little hot water and it whet in like a charm.

Installed new lower rack wheel kit

Super-easy and quick repair -- quality part snapped right into place.

Removed access panel (2 screws), Replaced broken cable/Eyelet assembly. Replaced access panel. Job took 5 minutes, including clean-up & stowing tools.

My GE dishwasher had a problem. The upper rack would fall into the lower rack when loaded breaking dishes! Turns out, the front rollers on the upper rack were broken so that the supports would just pull out. So, I found the parts on this website easily. I then took off the plastic plug on the support which is easy to do. There is a flange you bend towards the rear of the dishwasher to release the plug. Once released you have access to the rollers, which just snap off easily. The new ones snap on easily. Reverse the cap removal, and you are done!

First, remove the two access panels to the bottom of the dishwasher, each had two screws. Then, disconnect each old door cable and eyelet assembly, and the two springs. Now, connect the two new cable assemblies, and reconnect the two springs, one at a time, between the eyelets of the cable assemblies. Finally, replace the access panels

I used the pump/motor replacement kit. It was a very easy repair and the parts were a direct replacement with no modification necessary. I saved over $300.

I made a substitute cable that worked ok, but was a bit loose. When the new cable part came in I simply unhooked the substitute and hooked the new part in its place. The two spring ends slip into a hole on the cable connector. The cable loops under a plastic pulley and the far end piece fits over a small retainer. Actually, unbolting the bottom case parts and bolting them back on took more time than replacing the broken cable. The door works fine now.

Door seal was brittle and flat.
Not a hard job to do just having to keep making sure the seal did not pop out on the bottom corners of the door. The seal would tare easy so have to be careful. Before you remove the old seal on the bottom of door there is a 4 inch space between the ends of the seal. Mark the spot with marker so you know where to start placing the new seal.
Baffles were orginaly put in place with plummer putty, do not use this. Get GE clear seal is the best will hold forever but will come loose with a good tug. easy to clean out when replacing baffles again. Do not use any sealent when inserting the door seal just push into opening. Make sure you support the door when pushing down on door to put the seal in the slots.
The hardest part is the bottom corners the seal tends to slip out I found that if I streached the seal over the openings and continued on and come back to the corners it was easier to make the seal slip in.

I removed the two screw at the top holding the dishwasher to the counter top; pulled on the unit - but found it stuck on something.
Of course the hot water feed and the drain hose were still connected and would not let the unit move out any further as there was no slack.
If I had thought about it - I would have disconnected these from under the adjacent sink. But I ended up lying on the floor trying to disconnect them from underneath the unit. It was a bit difficult as there was very little room to move the wrench and the screwdriver.
Once done, the unit came out very easily.
When tipped over I disconnected the old motor and replaced with the new. It was a very different design but fitted in very easily. The hanger took a bit of working out as the diagrams are not very clear.
The wires and clips went together easily. Once I had cleaned everything around the motor and the gunge that cames from years or washing dishes, it went back the way it came out. Albeit with the same difficulty with feed and drain hose.
We ran the unit with no dishes for a couple of times to clear our the muck left in the pipes when the system was down.
Now we have a fully functioning dishwasher again. Cost $250 for the pump and motor as opposed to the $800+ unit my wife was looking at!