GQB8939VB169 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Found great information on this site describing the problem. My 9 year old GE Triton dishwasher has not been draining. I thought at first it was something stuck in float somewhere or perhaps a bad pump, but after searching around, I found this site and other stories similar to mine. Most of the reports suggested a worn check valve in the floor of the dishwasher tub, apparently a common issue with some GE models. I removed the strainer located at the back of the tub (4 screws removed w/ 1/4" nutdriver), then unscrewed the check valve to inspect it. Saw that the valve seat was very worn. Ordered the replacement part, received it 4 days later and installed in less than 10 minutes. The best part was I didn't have to remove the dishwasher or crawl underneath to complete the repair. Well worth the $20 for parts & shipping.

1. Remove access panel under door. 2.Shut off hot water.3. Shut off electric to washer.4. Disconnect water line from water inlet valve.5. Remove small outlet water line from valve. Replace valve & reconnect. OR !!! 1.Take solenoid valve & bracket off of original inlet valve 2. Pull out white plastic diaphragm cover. 3. Remove diaphragm & clean out water holes with a pin. 4. Reassemble valve. 5. Reinstall original water inlet valve & save $27.00

The shaft pulled out of the housing when I tried to get the push nut off. I had to take the pump housing out in order to get the shaft lined up with the valve when reassembling. In the end, the shaft had so much slop that no seal could keep it from leaking. Time for a new dishwasher.

First I removed the old gasket and seals. I replaced the seals and had difficulty getting the gasket to seal at the bottom of the door. I had to remove the seven door screws and was able to manipulate the gasket. Do not lift the inside door cover too far, as the latch may become disengaged, thus creating another problem to repair. I did this repair myself (female).

After removing the dish rack I unscrewed the center riser spray by turning it Clockwise and I removed the lower spray arm. I then removed the lower spray arm support using a phillips screw driver and replacer the worn water seal. I reversed the process and reassembled the sprayarm and center riser spray. Job completed!

I removed the four screws of the filter frame exposing the check valve (piston and nut assembly) . I unscrewed the old check valve and replaced it with the new one.

Unscrewed old spray arm by hand. Screwed new one on by hand. Two minute job. New arm and tower were better than old one. Piece of cake at a very low price.

I received my dishwasher as a hand me down, my Aunt never liked the way it cleaned. After it sitting for about 2 years i installed it in my house and found that it leaked all the time from where motor shaft went into the pump housing. After disassembling everything and scouring parts sites online, I found the parts, ordered them. 3 days later i had the parts, and the next day I had a fully functioning leak free dishwasher.

22 Year old dishwasher . . . Not worth repairing I thought so I pulled it out to dispose of it. Before I did, I went online to see if any parts were still available. . . To my surprise partselect. Com had it all! My problem was a plugged chamber located on rear wall of unit. A 20 minute repair once the new part arrived. Part arrived in 3 days but was broken inside of pkg. I called and the operator apologized profusely. . . She told me to keep the defective and explained my cc would temporarily be charged for replacement but as soon as they received a credit from supplier my credit will appear on my cc stmt. I had a replacement the following day. . . What a company!!!!

Read about somebody else with the same problem and ordered the check valve. 4 screws off, twist out old valve, twist in new valve, 4 screws back in. Now dishes are see-yourself clean.

Pulled dishwasher out. Unscrewed 4 screws holding body valve, disconnected 2 hoses and replaced valve, put machine back together in reverse order.

The hardest part was figuring out how to disassemble the door to replace the baffles and door gasket. No pictures or clues on the internet or my owners manual. I figured it out myself and the rest was a piece of cake. When the 7 screws were removed, the door liner lifted right out and new parts fit right in.

I simply detatched the broken old roller and snapped in the new one. It was very simple and I did not need any tools.

I opened the D/W door, used needle nose pliers to remove the old baffles. They come right out. I cleaned the area using paper towels and installed the new baffles. They just sit in the corners with nothing holding them. Simple job.

first, I removed the screws holding the dishwasher to the countertop.Then I removed the dishwasher from under the counter. I turned the dishwasher on it's back and loosened the three hose clamps securing the water connections to the pump assembly. I then removed the electrical plug to the motor and the screw holding the support rod to the motor. Then I worked the loosened water connections apart and removed the pump and motor assembly.
Then I removed the hose clamp and plug from one of the orifices on the new pump, and aligned all of the water connections and wiggled the new pump assembly into place. I tightened the hose clamps, Installed the new screw and support bar to the motor, and connected the electrical plug. I then turned the dishwasher upright, reconnected the power cord, water supply and drain lines and started a wash cycle to check the new system for leaks. I found that the extraneous drain solenoid that came attached to the new pump was loose and rattling, so I secured the solenoid shaft and linkage to the pump housing with electrical tape to stop the rattling.