GSB9930TG119 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Took off the lower faceplates. Removed the old eyelet assemblies (one broken, one not) and replaced both with new ones. Very easy to repair.

Replaced with a new rinse aid fill cap.

Just lift out the old dishrack and put in the new. Very easy and straightforward. Easy to order, unit came assembled. Happy customer.

The leak was coming from the drain valve shaft and I found the tips to replace the seal from this website. I was able to reach everything without removing the dishwasher from the cabinet. Once I got the cam lifter off the old push on nut was corroded so it was easy to get off. The old seal was recessed so I used the point of an ice pick to gently pry it out. The new seal was easy to push in place but the push on nut was a bear. I saw other comments about using a deep socket to push it on but I didn't have one the right size. I was able to hold the end of the shaft with pliers and pushed the nut in place using a screwdriver. Ran a short cycle and no more leak. Thank goodness for this website. Found the part easily and the other written comments were very helpful.

Removed the dishwasher from the cabinet. Turned it on it's top side. Removed the exit hose from the pump with a nut driver and replaced the flapper. Reconnected the hose to the pump.

On the GE Pot Scrubber 1120 model you do not even need tools to replace the parts that we replaced. We just pulled the corner baffles out and cleaned the corners before placing the new baffles in. For the door gasket, we just pulled the old gasket out and put the new one in the track that the old one came out of. We didn't have to take any door screws out to replace the gasket at all. It was very easy to do and no more leaks. You will have to push against the door to get it closed tightly the first time you use it since the new gasket has not been flattened by use. I ordered the gasket insert and used it since we had it but for this model we didn't really need it. I would suggest not ordering one for this model.

I simply removed the front toe kick panels.
The solonoid is staring you in the face.
I removed the small nuts on back side of the solonoid bracket and removed the retaining clip and springs.
I installed the new solonoid and was very surprised how easy it was.

I DID turn the power OFF at the breaker panel prior to starting the repair.

removed old drawer-like basket, installed the new duplicate replacement part. Easiest "repair" I've ever done!

I watched the video and did exactly what he did. I am a novice when it comes to repairs. I learn as I go. This repair went flawlessly. Ordering was quick and easy. The part arrived quickly. The repair took less time than expected. The part was what I needed and nothing else broke or went wrong when repairing the original problem. It was a 100% success.

Old baffles lift out and new ones installed - very easy

Removed 4 screws, took off basket covering, put new part in one turn, then replaced covering. Plumber had come out, I watched what he did, he had to order part and come back. I asked how much he didn't know but said cheaper than buying a new dishwasher. When he left I started calling around about the little plastic part that I needed. Part was $15.50. They called and said it would be $110.00. Needless to say I called them out and ordered the part myself and put it in. Took me like 6 minutes and cost $21.69. I was so mad about this situation that I even got my service call money back that I had already paid.

I first removed four screws holding the two cover panels attached to the dishwasher front at the bottom. Next I removed the broken cable and put everything back together that had sprung apart when the cable broke. Then I inserted the two door springs ends into the cable slots. Next I pulled on the springs to create slack and attached the cable / eyelet assembly to the protruding tab on the dishwasher frame. After attaching both sides the door works perfectly.

Took four screws out, unscrewed the piston & nut assembly by hand installed the new one. Cycled the dishwasher & it worked perfectly.

I disconnected the electrical wires. Then disconnected the support strut and the two hose clamps. I was then able to remove the motor /pump assy where I completed the disassembly of the solenoid linkage and pump assy. I removed the solenoid shaft seal. I disassembled the impella parts & the motor shaft seal. I reassembled using new seals, impeller, and grader nut. The only tricky step was waking up to the fact of a left handed thread on the grader nut. I re-installed the motor/pump unit, tightened the hose clamps, connected the electrical wires, & support strut.

Turn off power at breaker box.
Remove lower covers and 2 screws into counter top.
Verify sufficient length on water and electrical connection to allow sliding dishwasher out approx. 2/3. I disconnected the electrical at the j box on the dishwasher. If you must disconnect the water line, shut off supply, usually located under nearby sink, and provide a rag or sponge for small amounts of water left in supply line.
Carefully pull back the insulation to expose two screws on top where water line runs into the center.
Pull the top tray part way out and reach in to hold the spray arm while removing the screws. The spray arm will easily drop out.
Hold the new spray arm in place making sure the raised screw posts push into the holes, then reinstall the two screws. Done. Pull insulation back into place, retape if necessary. Reconnect electrical and water if necessary.
Slide unit back in, checking alinement. Rescrew to counter top and reinstall lower covers. Task complete. 15 mins if prepared. 30 mins if both elect. & water are disconnected and you are somewhat hesitant.