GQB7520VC169 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Parts showed up much earlier than expected. Simple unscrew the old asy. screw in the new one. Was done before the the !st

On the GE Pot Scrubber 1120 model you do not even need tools to replace the parts that we replaced. We just pulled the corner baffles out and cleaned the corners before placing the new baffles in. For the door gasket, we just pulled the old gasket out and put the new one in the track that the old one came out of. We didn't have to take any door screws out to replace the gasket at all. It was very easy to do and no more leaks. You will have to push against the door to get it closed tightly the first time you use it since the new gasket has not been flattened by use. I ordered the gasket insert and used it since we had it but for this model we didn't really need it. I would suggest not ordering one for this model.

Replaced with a new rinse aid fill cap.

The leak was coming from the drain valve shaft and I found the tips to replace the seal from this website. I was able to reach everything without removing the dishwasher from the cabinet. Once I got the cam lifter off the old push on nut was corroded so it was easy to get off. The old seal was recessed so I used the point of an ice pick to gently pry it out. The new seal was easy to push in place but the push on nut was a bear. I saw other comments about using a deep socket to push it on but I didn't have one the right size. I was able to hold the end of the shaft with pliers and pushed the nut in place using a screwdriver. Ran a short cycle and no more leak. Thank goodness for this website. Found the part easily and the other written comments were very helpful.

Took the screws out of the back of the doorl located the switch and replaced it put screws back in and it was fixed

Replaced all ordered parts.

Removed panel to access the interlock switches. There were two. The button on one switch was fine and the button on the other would not depress. Ran a continuity test and it failed. The switch also had a burnt smell

I watched the video and did exactly what he did. I am a novice when it comes to repairs. I learn as I go. This repair went flawlessly. Ordering was quick and easy. The part arrived quickly. The repair took less time than expected. The part was what I needed and nothing else broke or went wrong when repairing the original problem. It was a 100% success.

I simply removed the front toe kick panels.
The solonoid is staring you in the face.
I removed the small nuts on back side of the solonoid bracket and removed the retaining clip and springs.
I installed the new solonoid and was very surprised how easy it was.

I DID turn the power OFF at the breaker panel prior to starting the repair.

Removed 4 screws, took off basket covering, put new part in one turn, then replaced covering. Plumber had come out, I watched what he did, he had to order part and come back. I asked how much he didn't know but said cheaper than buying a new dishwasher. When he left I started calling around about the little plastic part that I needed. Part was $15.50. They called and said it would be $110.00. Needless to say I called them out and ordered the part myself and put it in. Took me like 6 minutes and cost $21.69. I was so mad about this situation that I even got my service call money back that I had already paid.

I used the website to identify a few different problem areas. I found that the motor shaft would not turn. Upon removing it, it did turn, which lead me to look at the Impeller which was worn / frozen. Ordered new impeller and installed 100 % success !!!

Old baffles lift out and new ones installed - very easy

Ordered rubber connector and it arrived the next day. Shut off main power and water. Disconnected water supply and pulled unit out from under counter. Flipped unit over on it's side. Disconnected wiring, drain hose, clamps and completely removed motor/pump. Rubber connector would not unscrew by hand so I found a drinking glass slightly smaller in diameter than the connector inner diameter. Inserted glass in connector and proceeded to unscrew connector by turning connector and glass together. After removing old connector I cleaned the mating part after removing it from inside the washer and removed all the build-up. Replaced everything back in same order.

Took four screws out, unscrewed the piston & nut assembly by hand installed the new one. Cycled the dishwasher & it worked perfectly.

I disconnected the electrical wires. Then disconnected the support strut and the two hose clamps. I was then able to remove the motor /pump assy where I completed the disassembly of the solenoid linkage and pump assy. I removed the solenoid shaft seal. I disassembled the impella parts & the motor shaft seal. I reassembled using new seals, impeller, and grader nut. The only tricky step was waking up to the fact of a left handed thread on the grader nut. I re-installed the motor/pump unit, tightened the hose clamps, connected the electrical wires, & support strut.