GSC4138X02WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed dishwasher, took off motor, and ordered part. It was delivered in a timely fashion (3 days). Determined which directions to follow. Used screwdriver to hook up motor. Put dishwasher back into cabinet area, made sure there were no leaks before fastening the dishwasher in place. Took about 1/2 hour to complete process. Very satisfied.

Simply screwed in new cap

Went to repair parts on troubleshooting and found check valve assembly to be most common problem. Went to parts diagram to locate assembly and found it somewhat confusing as to exact location. Ordered part(s) on percentage as the problem. Received part next day (great)! Pulled dishwasher out and found I did NOT need to do so to replace check valve which is replaced without having to remove dishwasher. The gasket replacement was not necessary as it seals sump area from bottom of dishwasher and not the valve as it appears on the parts diagram. It took about 2 minutes to replace valve itself and it was the cause of the problem.

Replaced lower rack with new. Upper rack removed front stoppers, removed old rack, slit new rack in and replaced stoppers. Total time about 15 mins.

I had already removed the screws that hold the inner door piece in place when diagnosing the problem. I snapped the new controller in place, put the 3 or so screws back in that hold it to the door, and replugged the wire harness connections from the power and the Sequencer. I put the inner piece of the door in place and replaced those 5 or so screws and restored power from the breaker box. The dishwasher gave a solid beep while the clean light flashed continuously. No other buttons were responsive and pressing the reset button caused a beep but nothing else. I began to research and diagnose that problem which was leading me to the Sequencer when I realized there was a "rewiring" plug on the controller I replaced that was not on the new controller. The controller which is made by Torisan is a generic part used by many manufacturers. The "rewiring" plug which goes into slot CN5 on the controller circuit card, which has wires that comes out of it and go back into other slots in the plug, is used to get the get the correct "pinout" sequence for GE's use of this generic component. Although I could find no information on this, the continuous beep was telling me there was a wiring problem. I removed the plug from the old controller, put it in CN5 of the new controller and the dishwasher works like a charm.

I would like to start-off by saying that I love this site . I've never been even remotely dissatisfied with parts I've ordered and the installation videos are awesome! I would recommend this site to anyone looking to repair appliances. Secondly, I am a retired mechanical designer with over 35 years of experience. I have a broad range of design experience in consumer, governmental, industrial and military part and product design. My opinion about the design having to do directly with my appliance is not very high and after talking with another local parts supplier discovered that this particular design is approximately 20 years old. I wonder how many dishwashers are leaking without the consumer realizing they have this problem. I followed the installation instructions provided by this site verbatim and the dishwasher still leaked like a sieve. This in my opinion goes back to my remarks concerning the design. This is a weak design at best and could benefit from an improvement in that area. After I installed the new parts, the push on nut (upon being seated onto the shaft for the drain valve flapper) was loose and spun freely. The push on nut did not properly compress the seal onto and around the flapper shaft nor into the valve housing. Water leaked through the seal as a result. I disassembled all of the parts again and placed a flat washer between the push on nut and the seal, to help compress the seal onto the flapper shaft and into the valve housing. The washer was a stainless steel flat washer with an ID that fit onto the shaft closely, but was a smaller OD than the seal. The washer was about 1/32" thick. Upon reassembly and observation, the dishwasher leak was stopped with the addition of the flat washer and my issue was resolved.

Removed rack slide end caps. They broke off because of brittleness. Removed rack, then used pliers and/or flat blade screwdriver to remove 4 rollers and axle assemblies. Replaced with new rollers/axles. Return upper rack into slides and installed new end caps. New caps slightly different than old but easily clip into place Upper rack works lile new!

easiest way i found to do it was pull dishwashers out from under the cabnet... laided a pillow down in front of the door and turned it on the front side... the part was very easy to get to at this angle....could have done it in less then 5 minutes but took my time to double check everything to be safe....took a total of about 10 minutes..... very happy now no longer need to vacume out the old dish water left at the bottom of the dishwasher...... i think most anyone could do this very easy....

Ordered the new motor/pump here at parts select and with the easy directions I replaced in no time flat. Saved me $300.00 for a replacement.

Each replacement wheel came in two parts: the wheel itself and the clip which had to be pushed through the center hole in the wheel in order to attach each wheel to the carriage that holds dishes. I had difficulty assembling the clips and wheels until I ran the clips under hot water to soften them. This made it possible to assemble the wheels and attach them to the dish carriage. I would have preferred the wheels to have come assembled, particularly given the price of each one.

I watched several YouTube videos on how to make the repair. It looked very easy but sometimes professionals, because they've done it before, don't point out small tips that would help a DIY homeowner. The latch goes easily into the inner door slot but there's nothing to hold it there. The videos show the inner and outer door being closed together without showing that you have to hold the latch in place while bringing the outer door up to meet the inner door. Any movement of the inner door makes the latch fall out. So I would say it took me 5 times longer to do this repair than it would if I was doing it again.

Turned off electical and water - took fillter screen out of inside, unscrewed cap took out valve and replaced it

After reading about this problem on an appliance repair forum, I learned that it is usually caused by a faulty piston valve. The valve is located under the rear screen filter and can be removed with your fingers. The parts arrived very quickly and we saved $$$ by not having to pay for a service tech visit and "mark-up" on the replacement parts.

I first made a bad assumption that the leaking dishwasher was from the gasket. I replaced the gasket and it still leaked. To find the leak, I took the body off of the dishwasher and ran it to find the leak. It was from the solonoid connection. I took photos of the leaking motor unit and very easily replaced the new motor unit by matching the placement from the photos. The hardest part is tipping the dishwasher on its side and mopping up the water.
It was very easy. All you need is a nut driver and a Phillips screwdriver. Even an over-domesticated, non- tool user can do it.

Took old rack out put new rack