GLD3846T05SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Repaired the soap dispenser.

Screw on the part.
The one screw was too expensive and o thought when I ordered it the package said 2 screw for $14.99 but only came with one screw.
We found an screw that worked.
I suggest the toe kick to include the 2 screw to make the experience of DIY easier

I just had to play around with it to attach the new cap without breaking it.....never did this before but eureka! it worked.

Just like the video and replaced it

Pulled washer out. Found water inlet valve in lower left. Shut off power and water. Replaced valve with new.

Nut driver and philips screwdriver.

Followed the instruction video on your website. It was accurate and valid. The repair should have taken 15 mins., instead one of the screws holding the dispenser was frozen. Tried DW-40, and liquid wrench. Neither worked because the screw was in plastic.Finally got out the Dremel and cutting wheels. Had to cut away enough of the unit until I could get at the screw (it was the center bottom one). Sliced through some more of the housing, then cut a notch in the screw head deep enough so I could apply enough pressure with a flat blade screwdriver to open it. After that things went as smoothly as could be expected.A bad design and cheap materials.

Watched the video, and followed the directions. Although my machine had some slight differences, the repair went pretty much per the video. Got all connections back where they belonged, cleaned up the insides a little while had the door parts separated, then buttoned it all back up, ran a cleaning solution thru empty washer, let it dry then started filling with dishes and ran the wash cycle the next day when full. All is well.

Turned off the power at the main box. Removed the six phillips screws and two bottom hex screws holding the front panel. Removed the two solenoid wires on the old dispenser (Label wire polarity). Removed the eight screws holding the old soap dispensor and took it out. Cleaned the area around the hole. Laid down a bead of silicon caulk around the hole edges. Placed the new dispenser in the hole and replaced the eight screws (do not over tighten). Replaced the two wires on the dispenser solenoid (check polarity). Replaced the front cover (Do not over tighten. Turned on the power and job complete.

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

and figured that was the problem. After a call to a delightful young lady in your service department We concluded that these rollers were the only thing available. Dejected I went back to my project with the intent of removing the wheels and grinding them down BUT 1st I gave it one more try and after some careful alined--Presto they rolled into the 2 tracks. I snapped the end caps on tracks--Problems solved--Please note: if these parts were taken off of my Bill Please Recharge them to me.THANK YOU ALL (IT WORKS LIKED A NEW WASHER) RON TUCKER 302 449-0342

Unscrewed the old roller. But it was difficult to replace the roller as the rim of the roller would not fit into the slide mechanism and allow the screw to engage the hole. What I thought would be a 2 minute job turned out to be more like 20 minutes. I suspect there is a way to release the slide stop so that the top basket could be removed with its slide bar, but I did not see how to do that. I finally was able to "force" the screw into the hole

The top right rail, facing the dishwasher, has a self lock tab. Using pliers, straighten the lock tab, insert the cap and then restore the lock tab to it's original position.

I installed new rollers and rack clips. The old ones had cracked and would not keep the rack in the tracks. I went to buy a new dishwasher which would have cost around $500. I bought $60 worth of parts although I probably could have just bought the clips for $15 and now the dishwasher is good to go! A real money saver.

The most difficult part was removing the old wheels. The plastic coating on the rack had come off, leaving the metal exposed. The wheels had rusted on - that's why they wouldn't roll. Once we got them off with pliers, hammer, screwdriver and basically everything in the tool chest, we were home free. Installing the new wheels and axles was easy.