GLV7800G00SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Hint on determining if the Main Conduit is the cause. Place a tapered flat piece of wood (wooden spatula) between the Main Conduit and rear of the dishwasher wall and remove any excess play.
Run the wash cycle and determine if the noise goes away or is reduced.

Removal and Replacement of the Main Conduit Assembly:
Opened the Dishwasher door and removed the lower and upper basket.
The upper basket required the two rubber gourmets on the front of the rail to be removed by inserting a flat bladed screwdriver between the top of white farthest tab towards the rear of the dishwasher of the rack slide end cap (PS2370502 – Item 652) and twist the screwdriver while gently pushing the top of the tab towards the rear of the dishwasher and gently pulling on the end cap (The rear tab needs to clear the upper rack slide).
Repeat this process on the other upper rack slide and remove the upper rack assembly.

Using a ¼ inch socket driver, remove the Main Conduit (PS651676 Item 585) screw located in the back of the Dishwasher wall and the screw from the upper spray arm (PS260547 Item 570) located on the roof of the unit.
Remover the lower Spray arm by gently pulling up and turning it counter clockwise.
Remove the fine filter hub nut (PS259078 item 454 ) by turning it counter clockwise and the fine filter (PS259068 item 452) The fine filter has a small tube going into the bottom of the dishwasher base that should be removed at the same time of the filter. Be sure to position it correctly when it is reassembled.
There is also a small stainless washer in the bottom of the fine filter housing. Take care not to loose it during the assembly and disassebly process

Remove the Main Conduit from the plastic assembly in the drain of the dishwasher by turning it counter clockwise. (Note, the new Main Conduit Assembly comes with this part pre assembled). Remove the same plastic piece from the new Main Conduit assembly by carefully lifting the clip on it.
Install the new piece back in the drain and tighten just prior to being pointed toward the back of the dishwasher.
Reassemble the Main Conduit to the drain piece and tighten it the remainder of the way and reassemble all parts in the reverse order they were removed.

When I first tried to fix the handle I could not figure out where the spring went. I went back online and looked at the diagram of the dishwasher on this site and learned where it went. Once I knew where every piece went it only took me about 5 minutes to put it back in and another 5 minutes to screw the cover back on. I am a newer homeowner and want to be able to do minor fixes. This was my first one and was very happy that I was able to do it on my own.

The gaskets arrived in a few days after my order. The tub seal was easy to change and tool only a few minutes with no tools. After I watched a video on the GE website I pulled out the old gasket, wiped out the slot, centered the new gasket at the top, pushed it in the slot to each corner.Then I pulled the end to the end of the track and pushed it in the full side from the bottom up. repeated on the other side.The lower gasket was harder and took about 40 minutes. I took eh door apart but did not need to it could be done with a mirror. Pull the old one out from one side. Don't be afraid of tearing it but get it all out. The new one will snap into the slot if you use a mirror to look in the door and see.

I received my dishwasher as a hand me down, my Aunt never liked the way it cleaned. After it sitting for about 2 years i installed it in my house and found that it leaked all the time from where motor shaft went into the pump housing. After disassembling everything and scouring parts sites online, I found the parts, ordered them. 3 days later i had the parts, and the next day I had a fully functioning leak free dishwasher.

I just moved into a house and the previous owner did not have the dishwasher mounted to the granite counter top. I purchased the mounting kit and installed to the sides of the dishwasher into predrilled holes and into the sides of the cabinets. It was easy and the dishwasher is now secure.

Removed the front cover. Disconnected the control panel. (one phillips screw) Removed the control panel. Replaced with new control panel. Reconnected control panel. Replace the front cover. Closed the dishwasher and reset circuit breaker. Total time 7 minutes. Total savings $250.00

Installing the gasket took about 45 seconds. It actually took more time to scrub the area clean prior to installing. One quick trick I found was to fold the replacement gasket in two, and use that mark to center the gasket and press it in from there. That way you don't have any guesswork as to how much slack to allow for when starting.

The bottom rack just pulls out so that was an easy replacement. The upper rack required a 1/4" nutdriver to remove the sprayer from the rack and a slot screwdriver was used to remove the tab that was holding the rack to the slide arm. Total time, 10 minutes tops!

First, I took off all the pipe clamps and retaining brackets. Then, I pried it out of there. One of the tabs holding one of the other bits to the body got busted, but it didn't matter, as it is held on very well just by the pipe clamp connection. I stuck the new one in and re-attached all the hoses. The GIANT complication was that a new floor had been installed over the old floor, right up against the kick plate- so in order to remove the dishwasher, I had to slice open the counter, as the new floor prevented sliding it out. To prevent the problem recurring, I spray painted over the sump inlet to make it taste worse. This is the downside of a cat door.

The repair went smoothly. There were actually instructions included with the parts, so that was nice. The only "gotcha" I found was that . . . after you take off the old food-chopper, you have unscrew the old impeller from the motor shaft. This was a bit difficult and you'll want some good pliers to do it. Don't worry about stripping where the food chopper screwed on-to, that part is attached to the impeller and there is a new one on the new impeller. When I re-installed everything onto the dishwasher, it rattled the first couple of times while the wear-ring was finding it's seat. Don't worry, that's normal. It went away by the third wash. I think I still have a small crack in the pump housing, though. The pump housing is two halves of molded plastic fused together along a seam, and I think the seam is starting to leak. It's about one drop every 45 seconds. I'm thinking JB Weld will fix it.

Removed original silverware basket from dishwasher rack. Replaced it with new silverware basket. Placed original silverware basket in recycle bin (plastic content). So easy, even my 24 year old son could do it!

Everything snapped on quite easily. I was releaved to not have to replace "everything."

I pulled the dishwasher out and detached the drain hose. I attached the new drain hose after cleaning out the connection to the garbage disposal.

Now my dishwasher doesn't stink anymore!

Removed the wire clip, then removed two screws on mounting bracket. Then disconected the hose. Removed the brass elbow.

Then reversed these steps and I was done.

No Plumer could help me. No one heard of a dishwasher check valve. My dishwasher was an ISA. I was lost until i found the relationship to Kitchenaid. Then sears. Vuela!
The valve was there, but unavailable.
A few more links, and the term "flapper" came up.
Well, my dishwasher check valve HAD a flapper inside. Although a plastic pos, i could unscrew the two halves and see the flapper.
A little piece of rubber, about 1" in diameter
All suppliers gave me but two choices. One large (size given) one smaller.
After years of searching, all I needed was a flapper valve. Not the whole check valve.
I found it hear for under $10