41381149 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Parts showed up much earlier than expected. Simple unscrew the old asy. screw in the new one. Was done before the the !st

Replaced with a new rinse aid fill cap.

Once the new motor and pump kit arrived. I removed the dishwasher, turned it upside down and replaced the motor and pump with the new one per the directions. Difficulty came in feeding the electrical wire/plug back through the cabinets. Once done, turned on the dishwasher, filled the tub, then manually moved the dial to drian. The water still would not drain from the tub. I searched further for the problem. Here it is; Found the air gap tube was plugged with food. Once I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the air gap, the tub drained fast and everything works great. So, I hope you folks put this up in your troubleshooting section for others to check before buying a pump and motor kit. If you had, I would have been able to check out the air gap, clean it out first before spending $140.00 for a pump and motor kit I didn't need. Anyway, lessons learned..Jeff

The leak was coming from the drain valve shaft and I found the tips to replace the seal from this website. I was able to reach everything without removing the dishwasher from the cabinet. Once I got the cam lifter off the old push on nut was corroded so it was easy to get off. The old seal was recessed so I used the point of an ice pick to gently pry it out. The new seal was easy to push in place but the push on nut was a bear. I saw other comments about using a deep socket to push it on but I didn't have one the right size. I was able to hold the end of the shaft with pliers and pushed the nut in place using a screwdriver. Ran a short cycle and no more leak. Thank goodness for this website. Found the part easily and the other written comments were very helpful.

Just lift out the old dishrack and put in the new. Very easy and straightforward. Easy to order, unit came assembled. Happy customer.

Replaced all ordered parts.

Removed panel to access the interlock switches. There were two. The button on one switch was fine and the button on the other would not depress. Ran a continuity test and it failed. The switch also had a burnt smell

Took the screws out of the back of the doorl located the switch and replaced it put screws back in and it was fixed

I watched the video and did exactly what he did. I am a novice when it comes to repairs. I learn as I go. This repair went flawlessly. Ordering was quick and easy. The part arrived quickly. The repair took less time than expected. The part was what I needed and nothing else broke or went wrong when repairing the original problem. It was a 100% success.

removed old drawer-like basket, installed the new duplicate replacement part. Easiest "repair" I've ever done!

I simply removed the front toe kick panels.
The solonoid is staring you in the face.
I removed the small nuts on back side of the solonoid bracket and removed the retaining clip and springs.
I installed the new solonoid and was very surprised how easy it was.

I DID turn the power OFF at the breaker panel prior to starting the repair.

Ordered rubber connector and it arrived the next day. Shut off main power and water. Disconnected water supply and pulled unit out from under counter. Flipped unit over on it's side. Disconnected wiring, drain hose, clamps and completely removed motor/pump. Rubber connector would not unscrew by hand so I found a drinking glass slightly smaller in diameter than the connector inner diameter. Inserted glass in connector and proceeded to unscrew connector by turning connector and glass together. After removing old connector I cleaned the mating part after removing it from inside the washer and removed all the build-up. Replaced everything back in same order.

Old baffles lift out and new ones installed - very easy

I first removed four screws holding the two cover panels attached to the dishwasher front at the bottom. Next I removed the broken cable and put everything back together that had sprung apart when the cable broke. Then I inserted the two door springs ends into the cable slots. Next I pulled on the springs to create slack and attached the cable / eyelet assembly to the protruding tab on the dishwasher frame. After attaching both sides the door works perfectly.

I disconnected the electrical wires. Then disconnected the support strut and the two hose clamps. I was then able to remove the motor /pump assy where I completed the disassembly of the solenoid linkage and pump assy. I removed the solenoid shaft seal. I disassembled the impella parts & the motor shaft seal. I reassembled using new seals, impeller, and grader nut. The only tricky step was waking up to the fact of a left handed thread on the grader nut. I re-installed the motor/pump unit, tightened the hose clamps, connected the electrical wires, & support strut.