GMB931HB119 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I diconected the electric removed water line removed 2 hex head screws pulled out inlet valve squeezed the pressure clamp and pulled off water inlet line and re assembled very easy

Thought hoses were clogged. Cleaned hoses but no obstructions. Googled the problem and found many similar problems. On PartSelect, the Piston and Nut Assembly was found to be the problem 44% of the time. I ordered the part and it arrived two days later. PartSelect showed how to install it and the problem was fixed.

took off old part, put on new part and that was not the problem.

2 screws to remove valve, turn water off, detach water line, detach plastic water outlet line, and put the new one on, reattaching everything in reverse. Electrical hookup was just two wires to solenoid. Slipped them off and back on new valve solenoid. Some difficulty getting support screws back in.

Original part no longer made. Substitute too small by a half an inch. Corrected the problem by removing the 4 corner wheels from the old rack and put them on the new one. Now, it fits and works perfectly.

Simply followed the instructions for the part on the part page. One thing that helped taking out some screws was to remove a couple of the brackets that hold the heating element and move it slightly. I would suggest cleaning all of the gunk out of drains and clean all holes in the screens using a toothpick, etc. Be careful not to overtighten the nut for the next time you have to do this!

looked up the model no. on partselect web site and they discribed several diagnoses for different problems.they gave a 19% probability for a bad valve and nut. i removed the cover and the nut valve and the valve looked pretty bad. i ordered a new part and delivery was very good.i replaced the part and that took care of my problem. i was very happy with the whole repair.

Went on line to order new pump. Web site showed "parts which repaired this problem and nut and valve had very high % as the failed part". I then removed nut and valve and was able to see that it was worn as they described. This was a very easy repair and worked perfectly. It saved me from ordering a $60. 00 Pump which would not have fixed my problem. Thank you for a great help for the diys people.

used tips from a past buyer

The Prep Work and putting the dishwasher back in place took up most of the time. The actual replacing the upper spray arm hose only took a couple minutes. The dishwasher was leaking. We pulled it out by removing the bottom front cover plates, unscrewing the top lip screws from the counter, loosening the 4 legs with a 1 inch wrench and carefully pulling the dishwasher out, placing cloths on the leg bottoms to avoid scratching the floor. Once out, we watched it run and could see water gushing out of the top hose. The hose was covered in a sticky glue all over the top. This was hard to remove, but we found scraping the glue off, then cleaning with fantastick and a brillo pad removed most of the glue quickly. We then saw the top hose has a lip that was GONE. The hose ends at the bottom of the dishwasher attached with a metal screw on clamp- very easy to remove. Once the top was glue free, we removed 2 hexagon screws with a tiny socket set, which releases the inside spray arm. The spray arm came right down and we rinsed it out- pieces of the old rubber from the hose came out. We ordered the new hose here from Part Select and received it in 3 DAYS!!! The new hose has a lip on top, which you gently push into the small top hole. When no more can be pushed through, you pull gently from the inside. Once the lip is inside, you seat it into the cleaned spray arm. Then screw the top 2 hexagon screws into the arm. Now attach the bottom hose with the clamp and screw. Go back to the top and squeeze on some clear RTV Silicone Adhesive onto the screws and hose where it goes into the hole. Also around the hose to hold it in place. Let it set up for 24 hours. It sets up as rubber. Test for leaks again. Now put the dishwasher back. Adjust the legs to fit- this takes time, and you are done! For an $8.00 part and some RTV silicone sealant for $5.00, you will get another 10 years out of your new spray arm hose! It's very do-able for anyone and so much cheaper than a new dishwasher! THANK YOU PART SELECT FOR SUCH WONDERFUL FAST SERVICE!!!!!

I reinstalled a new piston/nut assembly which was easy as per this forum. The two compared side to side clearly showed my old one as worn out and deteriorated. This however wasn't the only problem. Once new piston/nut assembly was installed the water still did not drain. I pulled the dishwasher out from the cabinet, disconnected the hose connected from the pump to the outer box the piston/nut assembly connected to and flushed that out. I discovered two pieces of broken glass in the box that may have been blocking the rubber flapper connecting the box to the drain hose. Glass was removed and once all was reconnected the unit drained perfectly. Check for potential debris in outer piston/nut assembly piece if simple change out of of piston/nut assembly doesn't solve the issue.

Followed previous directions which were easy. Hard on back trying to reach over door all the way to the back. My DW is over 15 yrs old and the plastic plug w/corroded and locked into place. Tried turning it by hand to no avail since the plug turning lips were worn off/or not long enought to grasp it with. Took a hammer and chisel to the lips and turned it about an inch counter clockwise (either way), then lifted it out prying it with a screwdriver. KEEP IN MIND THE THREADS ARE JUST FOR LOCKING IT IN PLACE AND THE PLUG CAN BE TURNED EITHER WAY. IT DOES NOT SCREW IN!! Cleaned it with DW40 and reassembled it.

Dishwasher kept displaying error code C1 (drain partly blocked) and occasionally C2 (Drain completely blocked). The drain was fine. Parts Select said symptom "not draining" needed a check valve. Installed that (old one was very worn), but that didn't help. I decided to take off the bottom panel and eyeball the situation. Discovered a leak from the drain valve. But I also discovered the reason for the error codes. The leak had rusted the actuator in the drain valve solenoid so that it couldn't move reliably. So when drain time came, the drain valve didn't open, resulting in a C1 or C2 error (the washer electronics thought the drain was blocked--and in a way it was. I got the replacement parts for the leaking drain valve and installed them. Hints: take a photo of the assembly before you take it apart. Getting the push on nut off was an ordeal, as some have said. I spend at least two hours getting it off. I hope you have secret tool X13 to make it faster. Hint #2: There is play in the drain valve shaft, so I held it toward me with a pair of pliers while I pushed the new push on nut all the way tight to hold the new rubber washer. Hint #3: I used plumber's grease on the washer and shaft to make installation easier. I found the two pairs of long-handled needle nose pliers very useful. Oh, I sanded the rust off the solenoid actuator and added a bit of WD-40 and now the error code problem (as well as the leak) is over.

We went to the Part Select site and described the problem and they recommended a new piston and nut assembly and even provided a video on the installation. The only difficulty was removing the old piston and nut assembly which was corroded and broke off during removal. Once it was out installing the new part was very easy. And best of all the dishwasher completely drains. We had an estimate of $150 for a repair house call which would probably have resulted in another house call to actually install the part. With Part Select we received the part the next day, spent only about $18 and fixed the dishwasher in 24 hours--what a great experience!

I looked on Part select at the model number of the dishwasher. I looked at the diagram of the diswassher and the hose. I read some of the repair stories. And became sure the upper hose was my problem and was armed with the ability now to fix my machine. Thanks PartSelect