4070110 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I removed the old seal, cleaned behind it, and then put the new seal in. We saw a video on You Tube on how to do it. Partselect also sent instructions on a e mail with the order receipt. We enjoyed working with you guys. Your customer service representative was very nice and accurate in sending out the part. All went as she said it would. Thanks!!

After removing the screws, the front of the dishwasher easily came off. I put 2 screws back in to hold the control panel in place. I did not want that to dangle while replacing the part. The part came off easily after removing the screws. Everything went together easy.

change the nozzles and filter

Diassembled the door from the insside and installed new board as instructions specified.
Frustration is that this is the second time I have had to replace for the same dishwasher....

Had to replace the top rack in the dishwasher. Removing the top rack was a tricky. Have to push the tab out not in on the stopper ends of the rack. Unscrew the bolts on the water sprayer. Need to slide the sprayer instead of unclipping it. Real easy to do once it is realized. Should have taken 30 minutes if I knew this in advance

Just like the video and replaced it

Turned off the power at the main box. Removed the six phillips screws and two bottom hex screws holding the front panel. Removed the two solenoid wires on the old dispenser (Label wire polarity). Removed the eight screws holding the old soap dispensor and took it out. Cleaned the area around the hole. Laid down a bead of silicon caulk around the hole edges. Placed the new dispenser in the hole and replaced the eight screws (do not over tighten). Replaced the two wires on the dispenser solenoid (check polarity). Replaced the front cover (Do not over tighten. Turned on the power and job complete.

Watched the video, and followed the directions. Although my machine had some slight differences, the repair went pretty much per the video. Got all connections back where they belonged, cleaned up the insides a little while had the door parts separated, then buttoned it all back up, ran a cleaning solution thru empty washer, let it dry then started filling with dishes and ran the wash cycle the next day when full. All is well.

Removed the dishwasher to get at the defective parts and removed,than replaced the two check valves and reassemble.

Nut driver and philips screwdriver.

Pulled washer out. Found water inlet valve in lower left. Shut off power and water. Replaced valve with new.

Followed the instruction video on your website. It was accurate and valid. The repair should have taken 15 mins., instead one of the screws holding the dispenser was frozen. Tried DW-40, and liquid wrench. Neither worked because the screw was in plastic.Finally got out the Dremel and cutting wheels. Had to cut away enough of the unit until I could get at the screw (it was the center bottom one). Sliced through some more of the housing, then cut a notch in the screw head deep enough so I could apply enough pressure with a flat blade screwdriver to open it. After that things went as smoothly as could be expected.A bad design and cheap materials.

Changed the main chip. the unit then started and continuously ran. Thought something was wrong with it. It is just a cycle of the dishwasher and when the pump quit running the dishwasher ran and operates. Saved me lots of money and time.

Thought it might be check flapper valve on drain pump, so I replaced fairly easily, per instructions. When doing, I noticed the attached relay wires were not secure. When it was on the drain cycle one of the relay wires vibrated badly and loosened the connection enough to only work occasionaly. Would like to put new relay on the pump but they do not sell separately from the pump. (one assembly). I resecured connection and will wait till relay gives out and buy new assembly, but for now it's working perfectly!

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.