GFSD551P00BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Replaced the old hose with new one; very inexpensive part, only cost me 10 dollars. Way better than replacing the entire dish washer. Thank you so much for providing the "do it yourselfer" the items for simple and easy tasks. :)

I lifted out the old baffles, cleaned the soap scum from the recesses, and placed the new baffles in by hand. No tools were required, and total repair time was less than 8 minutes. the total cost was a fraction of the cost of a service call.

A no brainer, replaced old fill cap with new fill cap. Delighted I was able to order the part, website is user friendly.

I simply lifted the baffles out and cleaned the base and installed the new baffles and started the dishwasher and NO LEAKS.

Pulled the old one out and placed the new one right into place

I watched the video instructions and it looked easy! The old gasket just pulled right off easily! Installation of the new gaskets was quick and easy!

Took off old jet dry dispenser and replaced with new and now not leaking.

I had a shut off water supply shut off shut under my sink. That is where I shut the water off for the dishwasher. I knew it was for the dishwasher ,because it follow the line, and could see it was going to the washer. Then I went down stairs in the basement. Opened my breaker box, and found the breaker for the dish washer marked dish washer, and put in the off position. When I was still up stairs I opened dish washer , and inside at the top was two screws holding the dishwasher to the counter top. Those two screws turned out to be the exact size of just about every screw I ended up having to unscrew on this machine. So at the time I was in the basement turning off breaker, I went to the garage to gather up tools. Take the two screws that are screwed to the counter top. Then I layed on the floor, and at the bottom of the dish washer there is a panel on the front of the machine with screws attaching it. Take those screws out. Pull off cover. Now get a flash light so you can see. They're adjustable feet that the dishwasher are being leveled by. Those feet need to most likely be adjusted down so you can the machine pulled out, and make it possible to work on. now you can you can pull it out, but watch that water supply line does not get hung up, or electrical wires. Once the machine is pulled out there is another cover on the front that I took off. Four screws hold it on. Now you can get to the part to fix it. The other thing you need to know is after taking off the valve and taking off the old 90 fitting. It will need cleaned up. When you put it on the new shut off valve use pipe dope or thread tape so it doesn't leak. Good luck.

Small rubber gasket needed to be replaced. Not the best design by GE, but it has lasted 11 years before leaking.
Needed to remove the solenoid to access the shaft of the valve. Tough to push gasket into place, but eventually it fit in.

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

I first shut off water supply and disconnected the water line and drain hose to the disposal. Then I pulled the dishwasher out from the cabinet unplugged the electrical wire from the wall and laid it on it's back side. I then laid out the new motor and compared parts to parts. It was a direct replacement of the same motor except for very minor changes. I unscrewed the support bracket, then unscrewed the bottom clamp that joined the motor and the rubber connector to the dishwasher. I also decided to replace that part also. That part was removed by using my hand to unscrew it. It has large threads that are not very recognizable when looking at the part. It unscrews counterclockwise like a normal screw. You have to hold the inside piece while you screw the new one back in place. I put it as tight as I could by hand. I would recommend doing so on all motor replacements due to that part not looking so good and if it leaked you would have to take everything apart again to change it out. That part is a separate purchase and it is not included with the kit. Then I took the other clamp to the plastic connector off. I then unplugged the electrical connections, there were only two and they were both exact connections for the replacement motor. After that the entire motor was separated from the dishwasher and I went slipped the new motor into place connected two clamps and made sure everything was reconnected. I slid the dishwasher in place, reconnected the power wire, the drain hose, water supply. I checked for leaks after restoring water pressure. Then ran the dishwasher through a complete cycle and it works just fine. Total repairs cost about 150.00 and the dishwasher appears to be brand new again. I took one look at the diagrams and never had to refer back to them. They had plenty different diagrams and the first option was mine and that was all I needed. I would recommend this option to anyone.

As the washer is slightly undersized to perform correctly, following standard instructions to replace the drain valve staff seal and retaining washer I wound Teflon tape between the retaining ring and washer to slightly increase pressure on the washer and seal the opening.

There was no mention of a very slight rub of silicone for lubrication. I have always utilized this on all "O" rings with good results!

shut off water. removed lower panel disconnected power removed supply hose and outlet hose. disconnected electrical plug from valve. Un bolted valve from frame. removed elbow from valve inlet. installed elbow on new valve using Teflon tape. reinstalled valve to frame. connect hoses + electric plug to new valve. turn water on check for leaks. reconnect power. run dish washer check for leaks & popper operation. reinstall lower panel.

Used teflon tape around new 3/8 elbow. Re-installed valve in originals postion. Connected supply hose and reconnected electrical to valve.