GLSD421P00WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I am a 72 year old woman. The video that came with the order were perfect!! Watched a couple times and fixed it myself. My sons were definitely impressed. Thanks

Installation was very easy! Rack works perfectly now. Only problem...bought four sets instead of 4 parts since the order form didn't say it included 4 in each pack.

UNPACKED WHEELS AND CLIP. USING NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS SQUEEZED WHEEL TIP TO INSERT IN WHEEL. REMOVED OLD WHEELS AND RETAINER BY HAND. INSTALLED NEW WHEELS INSTALLED AND NEW RETAINERS

1.Shut off the electric! 2.Shut off the water Supply. 3.Removed the two lower front panels(Two bolts each) . 4.The Water supply Solenoid is located far left up front . 5. Unplug power connector clip to the solenoid. 6.remove the two mounting bolts . 7. Use pliers to compress the rubber hose clamp And slide down the hose . 8 some small amount of water maybe in the hose a pan maybe necessary under the solenoid. 9.Gently pull the rubber hose off the nozzle. Complete installation in reverse. May The Force Be With You!

The sump was very clogged with caulk like crud that we think was a chemical reaction from soap that was used the first two years. When I first started troubleshooting, the sump seemed to be the problem, so I replaced that. There was a small hose on the sump that was broken so it made sense to replace it anyhow.

When that didn't help I put the dishwasher into service mode and observed that there just wasn't enough water to spin the sprayer. Therefore it was a water quantity problem, which can be caused by either the Water Inlet Valve or the Flood Switch.

I ordered both the Water Inlet Valve and the Flood Switch, just in case. I replaced the valve first and when that worked I did not install the switch.

Installation was performed with the dishwasher still inserted in the cabinet. If you have big hands, pull the dishwasher out. With sockets and nut drivers, I was able to remove the assembly. After pulling it out enough to clear the dishwasher, I was able to get a screwdriver on the outlet side clamp and a wrench on the inlet side hose.

My old valve had a 90° elbow on it and that was difficult to remove. Installing the elbow on the new valve was just as bad. The valves don't have enough clearance to get a wrench on them to keep them from turning while the elbow is tightened.

TIP: Take a picture of the valve before removing/disconnecting anything. I don't know if the electrical connector can attach either way but I made sure to put it back on exactly the same way it was.

Followed the sequence from on line video provided by PartSelect. Knowing the sequence and the secret of the push on nut made the replacement simple. My dishwasher is built in therefore I pulled my dishwasher half way out to gain better access and did not need to disconnect drain or water supply. Just unplugged the power and went to work.

Removed kick panel and pulled out the unit from cabinet carefully. Turned off water and power. Removed the water feed and used an aluminum pie tin line a low-profile drip pan to catch the extra water and used a scrap towel to clean the dust and extra water spilling out. Used sockets and wrench to remove the old inlet and screwed out the housing to examine the old inlet. No real way to clean it. Honestly, I don’t see a reason for the filter. There’s no way to replace it and it’s not easy to change out anyway. The particles were so small they could have passed through and not harmed the system. A better and more practical place for any filter would be just in front of the inlet that could just pop in every 2-3 years as needed preventatively in 5 minutes. Anyway, I reassembled and tested. Water flow was great. I think it cleans better too because the hot water fills the plastic reservoir faster and stays hot to clean more effectively.

Without any specific directions with the part (which would had been nice. If it wasn't for my husband I wouldn't have known where to start.) I had to carfully pull the dishwasher out of the cabinet (it wasn't heavy) to unplug the power supply. Then we unscrewed 2 screws on the top and the upper arm connection came off. We replaced it with the new one, screwed it back on, reconnected the power supply and pushed the dishwasher back where it belonged. It worked out very well.
Also I want to say I am very happy with the length of time it took to get my part to me. (1 day) I was washing dishes it no time.

Thank You
Debbie Bradford
Hookstown, Pa.

I turned off the water supply to the dishwasher. Then took off the front panels and disconnected the water. I then unscrewed the dishwasher from the countertop, pulled it out luckily there was plenty of play in the wire, and drain hose. I turned it on its side and had to remove a couple clamps to free th piece that I was replacing. Once I got to it, it just unscrewed. I put the new one on and everything back together. It was easy.

Repair was easy. However, this did not solve the problem.

The instructions provided are very good if I had done before. My concern was getting the gasket to sit properly at the bottom where you cannot see. I removed the inside of the door (7 screws) and this made it easier to assure gasket sat properly in the track. may have cost an extra 15 minutes but worth it. If I do again I will take door apart again, however I think this is fixed and should not need attention again.

See GE web site for repair instructions. Take out screws at top of door. Slide unit out there is a spring on each side of the door just look at the good one for details. Easy fix. About 30 minutes.

Had to remove entire lower unit from dishwasher but it is a tight fit between the pump inlet flange and the floor.The next problem was to get the E clip off of the valve shaft. I knew the E clip had to be a straight fit when put back on the shaft so I had to straighten out before putting it back on the shaft after putting the new seal on the shaft correctly.Put the solonoid back on and made sure the valve shaft turned freely. Next fun was getting the pump unit back in place. Not easy (clearance) but got-er done!

Ordered the Drain Valve Shaft Seal and Push On Nut to make repair. Removed dishwasher from counter. Removed motor/pump assembly from dishwasher. Removed drain celenoid from pump. Removed old push on nut and old drain valve seal. Installed new seal and push nut. Replaced everything in reverse order. Amazingly no water leaks after reinstallation. Seams to be working fine so far....fingers crossed. Hoping to get a few more years out of this dishwasher.
Thank You PartSelect.

The solenoid and linkage was easy to disasemble, but getting the retainer (push on nut) off was difficult without removing the motor and pump. Once removed it was a snap. Getting the pump/motor back onto the pipes was near impossible from underneath. I had to remove the dishwasher from under the countertop to get it back correctly. I would reccomend doing this for this repair, as it made life a lot easier. Unwiring and removing the water supply line was not a problem either. WORKS AS GOOD AS NEW!