EDW8311J00WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I removed the old seal, cleaned behind it, and then put the new seal in. We saw a video on You Tube on how to do it. Partselect also sent instructions on a e mail with the order receipt. We enjoyed working with you guys. Your customer service representative was very nice and accurate in sending out the part. All went as she said it would. Thanks!!

After removing the screws, the front of the dishwasher easily came off. I put 2 screws back in to hold the control panel in place. I did not want that to dangle while replacing the part. The part came off easily after removing the screws. Everything went together easy.

placed the end cap into location and forced it into place. Fixed -and we are all much happier!!

No tools needed for this half-minute repair. Just bend the flexible plastic tab on the back of the end cap until it slips into the metal rail and the end cap snaps into place. Couldn't be easier or simpler!

Although the replacement part was different that the original, the replacement is a better design and attached with no difficulty.

Popped out Old Roller, put in new one, pushing it together with a pair of pliers.

My only regret is that i didn't check the other side of the dishwasher... the other roller was broken also, and now i have to pay 5.95 shipping & handling for a .29 cent item

Check all your rollers before you buy just one!!!!!

I just had to play around with it to attach the new cap without breaking it.....never did this before but eureka! it worked.

The top right rail, facing the dishwasher, has a self lock tab. Using pliers, straighten the lock tab, insert the cap and then restore the lock tab to it's original position.

I had a shut off water supply shut off shut under my sink. That is where I shut the water off for the dishwasher. I knew it was for the dishwasher ,because it follow the line, and could see it was going to the washer. Then I went down stairs in the basement. Opened my breaker box, and found the breaker for the dish washer marked dish washer, and put in the off position. When I was still up stairs I opened dish washer , and inside at the top was two screws holding the dishwasher to the counter top. Those two screws turned out to be the exact size of just about every screw I ended up having to unscrew on this machine. So at the time I was in the basement turning off breaker, I went to the garage to gather up tools. Take the two screws that are screwed to the counter top. Then I layed on the floor, and at the bottom of the dish washer there is a panel on the front of the machine with screws attaching it. Take those screws out. Pull off cover. Now get a flash light so you can see. They're adjustable feet that the dishwasher are being leveled by. Those feet need to most likely be adjusted down so you can the machine pulled out, and make it possible to work on. now you can you can pull it out, but watch that water supply line does not get hung up, or electrical wires. Once the machine is pulled out there is another cover on the front that I took off. Four screws hold it on. Now you can get to the part to fix it. The other thing you need to know is after taking off the valve and taking off the old 90 fitting. It will need cleaned up. When you put it on the new shut off valve use pipe dope or thread tape so it doesn't leak. Good luck.

Unscrewed the old roller. But it was difficult to replace the roller as the rim of the roller would not fit into the slide mechanism and allow the screw to engage the hole. What I thought would be a 2 minute job turned out to be more like 20 minutes. I suspect there is a way to release the slide stop so that the top basket could be removed with its slide bar, but I did not see how to do that. I finally was able to "force" the screw into the hole

I Googled bottom door gasket replacement on GE model and found several videos walking me through the process. I followed one of them and successfully replaced the gasket without pulling the appliance out.

Turned off the power at the main box. Removed the six phillips screws and two bottom hex screws holding the front panel. Removed the two solenoid wires on the old dispenser (Label wire polarity). Removed the eight screws holding the old soap dispensor and took it out. Cleaned the area around the hole. Laid down a bead of silicon caulk around the hole edges. Placed the new dispenser in the hole and replaced the eight screws (do not over tighten). Replaced the two wires on the dispenser solenoid (check polarity). Replaced the front cover (Do not over tighten. Turned on the power and job complete.

and figured that was the problem. After a call to a delightful young lady in your service department We concluded that these rollers were the only thing available. Dejected I went back to my project with the intent of removing the wheels and grinding them down BUT 1st I gave it one more try and after some careful alined--Presto they rolled into the 2 tracks. I snapped the end caps on tracks--Problems solved--Please note: if these parts were taken off of my Bill Please Recharge them to me.THANK YOU ALL (IT WORKS LIKED A NEW WASHER) RON TUCKER 302 449-0342

Thought it might be check flapper valve on drain pump, so I replaced fairly easily, per instructions. When doing, I noticed the attached relay wires were not secure. When it was on the drain cycle one of the relay wires vibrated badly and loosened the connection enough to only work occasionaly. Would like to put new relay on the pump but they do not sell separately from the pump. (one assembly). I resecured connection and will wait till relay gives out and buy new assembly, but for now it's working perfectly!

I removed the anchor screws at the top of the dishwasher, and the screws holding the bottom kickplate in place. I pulled out the dishwasher 8-10 inches to expose the cables where the plastic hinge arm links are installed.
On mine, there is a steel cable with a hook crimped on the end. The hinge arm link doesn't slide out of this crimped hook easily as-is, the opening is too small. I removed the old link pieces by breaking them, but I couldn't get the new hinge arm links installed without filing the opening of the hook to accept them more easily.
The demo installation video doesn't show this spring-cable-hook-hinge link configuration, so it was a little more involved than I expected. I would have packed my metal file if I had known this would be an issue. I replaced both sides while I was in there, and the remaining good one was pretty brittle. I was glad I took the time to do both. I had to file both sides to install the new links.

The dishrack rollers were easy to install.
The rack slide end caps from the factory were difficult to remove and reinstall without some pliers and elbow grease. The replacement part was much easier to install.