GDWF160V10SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

shut off water. removed lower panel disconnected power removed supply hose and outlet hose. disconnected electrical plug from valve. Un bolted valve from frame. removed elbow from valve inlet. installed elbow on new valve using Teflon tape. reinstalled valve to frame. connect hoses + electric plug to new valve. turn water on check for leaks. reconnect power. run dish washer check for leaks & popper operation. reinstall lower panel.

Used Phillips screwdriver to undo brackets that keep dishwasher in place. Pulled out dishwasher from underneath the counter. Placed hinge arm in spring, hooked spring onto clip, placed hinge arm in clip. Put back dishwasher under the counter and screwed in place. Took all of 15 minutes. Saved 185.00 for service call.

Replaced interlock assembly as one of the possible causes. The replacement was easy, but this was not the final fix. I also replaced the water inlet valve, flood switch and finally found that there was large calcification within the drain tube assembly (not visible, but was blocking water). Got a new flexible tubing and new drain hose, plugged everything together and the dishwasher runs like new now. Watching for a potential leak from the drain tube to drain hose connection and mya need to tape it up, but so far so good...

I had a shut off water supply shut off shut under my sink. That is where I shut the water off for the dishwasher. I knew it was for the dishwasher ,because it follow the line, and could see it was going to the washer. Then I went down stairs in the basement. Opened my breaker box, and found the breaker for the dish washer marked dish washer, and put in the off position. When I was still up stairs I opened dish washer , and inside at the top was two screws holding the dishwasher to the counter top. Those two screws turned out to be the exact size of just about every screw I ended up having to unscrew on this machine. So at the time I was in the basement turning off breaker, I went to the garage to gather up tools. Take the two screws that are screwed to the counter top. Then I layed on the floor, and at the bottom of the dish washer there is a panel on the front of the machine with screws attaching it. Take those screws out. Pull off cover. Now get a flash light so you can see. They're adjustable feet that the dishwasher are being leveled by. Those feet need to most likely be adjusted down so you can the machine pulled out, and make it possible to work on. now you can you can pull it out, but watch that water supply line does not get hung up, or electrical wires. Once the machine is pulled out there is another cover on the front that I took off. Four screws hold it on. Now you can get to the part to fix it. The other thing you need to know is after taking off the valve and taking off the old 90 fitting. It will need cleaned up. When you put it on the new shut off valve use pipe dope or thread tape so it doesn't leak. Good luck.

Watched the video, and followed the directions. Although my machine had some slight differences, the repair went pretty much per the video. Got all connections back where they belonged, cleaned up the insides a little while had the door parts separated, then buttoned it all back up, ran a cleaning solution thru empty washer, let it dry then started filling with dishes and ran the wash cycle the next day when full. All is well.

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

Man, if you need help doing this repair, you shouldn't even own a dishwasher, much less a house. This was the easiest repair in the entire galaxy. First, I removed the old wheels, which was easy becasue they were always falling off by themselves. I then had to use pliers to squeeze the old studs to remove them from the wheels. All the wheels were still in good shape. Then I snapped the wheels onto the new studs, and snapped the studs onto the lower rack. And then, it was like I was in heaven. Bluebirds were singing, the sun was shining, my lower rack was sliding in and out and in and out like it was new. O happy day.

This lower rack (GE part #WD28X25960) was ready to roll right into the dishwasher straight out of the box, no tools needed.

I watched this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-k0iZGwMOGc
And then I did exactly what it said! It was easy. Plus, when I opened the panel I could see the old switch interlock assembly was melted on one side, so I knew I had gotten the right part!

I repaired by replacing both inner rails.
I found that removing an inner rail from the rack is difficult. It can be done with strong fingers separating the tabs of a front Y hook after releasing the rear hook so the rack can slide off the horizontal locator rods. It helps to apply liquid soap to the old inner rails Y clips to reduce friction.
Clean the outer rails thoroughly with a brush and liquid cleaner so the rails can engage
Inserting the inner rails into the outer rails is difficult when they are already attached to the rack. It's much easier to insert the rails independently of the rack. Push the outer rails into the inner rails while applying force to keep them engaged

Attach the rack to the rails by inserting the long rear horizontal rods of the rack into the rear clips of the rail.
Assure the tabs in the rear clips are locked
Again, it helps to apply liquid soap to the new inner rail Y clips to reduce friction
Hold the rails in place and pull the rack forward to engage the front rails with Y clips to the shorter front horizontal rods of the rack.
Force them together to spread the Y clips and lock the rails into them.

Replaced impeller

I took out the old rack and rolled in the new. I thought I was going to have to take the rollers off the old one and put them on the new, but they were already on the new rack. The hardest part was getting into the box. I am an 80 year old female.

I simply removed the bad part and reversed the process. It was very easy and a 12 year old could do it. Thanks for the online tips and recommendations. You saved me over 400.00 which is what a new unit would run. Plus installation. Many Thanks.

I removed the old rack and saved the flatware container. Then I put the new rack in.

The difference between the old one and the new one is that between a busted grocery cart with one wheel that always wants to return to the parking lot, and a well-trained dog that does exactly what I ask it to. The new rack was worth the $95 I spent to get it.

The new rack came with wheels and axles, so I didn't need to order more.

Very easy - remove the screws around the inside of the door. 6 screws and 2 plugs to remove the assembly. Just be careful not the strip the sheetmetal screws when putting it back together. No screwguns...