400870 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

The Solenoid black plastic had melted around the solenoid shaft. I unplugged the solenoid, removed 2 screws,then one C clip and pulled the the unit out. The new solenoid is difficult to install all together as the shaft it goes on holds it all together when both springs are installed - - so I installed in one piece, with the 2 screws, except for the white plastic thing, the C clip that holds it on the shaft, and one of the two springs - - these three items went on separately. I wanted to thank the help your expert gave, but I couldn't figure how to do that.

Removed door panel. Removed old door seal and cleaned seal recess. Installed new seal. Replaced door panel on door and ran a cycle to check for leaks. Readjusted door latch to correct small leak. Ran another leak test. Job complete and wife is happy!

Disconnect water line and screws (2) holding dishwasher under cabinet, and clamp for wastewater line. Pulled dishwasher out, turned on its side, and removed pump. Disassembled pump per instructions (great instructions) and installed new parts. Reversed to reassemble and except for a loose clamp that leaked (I tightened) it went well. Just under 1 hour.

First I turned power to dishwasher off at fuse box.then,removed inside panel inside dishwasher about six screws.examined the control switch assembly and removed two screws that hold it into place.carefully removed two wire housings.Then located the part no.and model no.on the control panel.ordered new part online.The new control panel assembly arrived the next day.Installed it right away.Our dishwasher works as good as new. Thanks

Removed the lower rack and installed new wheels with clips

The newly purchased wheels have a little different design and could be installed in a matter of few seconds.

installed part on inside end of rail. no tools needed. original part wouldn't stay on rail. finished in 2 minutes
wife happy

Inserted wheels on socket and then into the dishwasher rack.

Removed old rack replaced with new one which was an exact duplicate. Mama's happy; everybody's happy.

First I opened the package and screwed the new dispenser cap into place.

Turn off power at breaker box.
Remove lower covers and 2 screws into counter top.
Verify sufficient length on water and electrical connection to allow sliding dishwasher out approx. 2/3. I disconnected the electrical at the j box on the dishwasher. If you must disconnect the water line, shut off supply, usually located under nearby sink, and provide a rag or sponge for small amounts of water left in supply line.
Carefully pull back the insulation to expose two screws on top where water line runs into the center.
Pull the top tray part way out and reach in to hold the spray arm while removing the screws. The spray arm will easily drop out.
Hold the new spray arm in place making sure the raised screw posts push into the holes, then reinstall the two screws. Done. Pull insulation back into place, retape if necessary. Reconnect electrical and water if necessary.
Slide unit back in, checking alinement. Rescrew to counter top and reinstall lower covers. Task complete. 15 mins if prepared. 30 mins if both elect. & water are disconnected and you are somewhat hesitant.

We knew roughly how we needed to put the cap on the rail, but our technique of simply forcing it in the end of the rail wasn't working. The trick is to bend the moveable part of the plastic cap inward while you're sliding it in, and it clicks right into place.

The location of the cap we were replacing was the upper back left, which made it a little tricky to reach back there and insert it, especially for a bigger guy like myself. We took the bottom rack out and my smaller wife was more easily able to lean in the dishwasher and reach back there to insert it.

Removed seven screws that held the inside panel to door. removed inside panel to work area and cleaned. After carefully observing the position of the old gasket, it was easily removed and the new one but in its place. Replaced the door being careful toalign the handle before tightly securing all seven screws. Repair worked, no more leak.

Plumber had suggested trying a new gasket rather than replace the dishwasher. Ordered one and installed it. Cleaned door and installed gasket in about 30 minutes. So far it works great .... and ... cheaper than new dishwasher.

I had already removed the screws that hold the inner door piece in place when diagnosing the problem. I snapped the new controller in place, put the 3 or so screws back in that hold it to the door, and replugged the wire harness connections from the power and the Sequencer. I put the inner piece of the door in place and replaced those 5 or so screws and restored power from the breaker box. The dishwasher gave a solid beep while the clean light flashed continuously. No other buttons were responsive and pressing the reset button caused a beep but nothing else. I began to research and diagnose that problem which was leading me to the Sequencer when I realized there was a "rewiring" plug on the controller I replaced that was not on the new controller. The controller which is made by Torisan is a generic part used by many manufacturers. The "rewiring" plug which goes into slot CN5 on the controller circuit card, which has wires that comes out of it and go back into other slots in the plug, is used to get the get the correct "pinout" sequence for GE's use of this generic component. Although I could find no information on this, the continuous beep was telling me there was a wiring problem. I removed the plug from the old controller, put it in CN5 of the new controller and the dishwasher works like a charm.