40561119 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Went to repair parts on troubleshooting and found check valve assembly to be most common problem. Went to parts diagram to locate assembly and found it somewhat confusing as to exact location. Ordered part(s) on percentage as the problem. Received part next day (great)! Pulled dishwasher out and found I did NOT need to do so to replace check valve which is replaced without having to remove dishwasher. The gasket replacement was not necessary as it seals sump area from bottom of dishwasher and not the valve as it appears on the parts diagram. It took about 2 minutes to replace valve itself and it was the cause of the problem.

Simply screwed in new cap

Our older GE dishwasher was leaking water on the floor while running. After inspecting it while running I was able to determine that the water was coming from the seal around the motors shaft where it entered the pump. I then looked up the washers model number and ordered the impeller shaft seal kit. To my suprise the kit arrived the very next day! After disconnecting the power and water supplies from the dishwasher , I then removed it from the cabinet base and turned it over to gain easy access to the bottom. Using nothing more than a nut driver, adjustable wrench and a pair of pliers I was able to loosen the two compression clamps and two hose clamps that hold the pump to the bottom of the washers tub. I then removed the entire pump and took it to my work bench for the rest of the repair. Removing the plastic impeller strainer was the toughest part.. Lacking the proper spanner wrench, I had no tool that would lock onto the raised tabs to turn it loose with. I was able to position the tabs in the jaws of my workbench vise and giving the entire pump a little twist, It broke free and I was then able to unscrew the rest of the way it by hand.. The old dried up detergent made for a good adhesive, and after removal I cleaned the area completely so the new strainer would thread in easy. I installed the new parts in the kit as per the supplied instructions and re-installed the pump housing back on the dishwasher and put it all back in place. After running it several times not a drip was to be seen, and I was very pleased with the whole process. With the shipping it cost me just $25.00, and it saved me a expensive service call or maybe even the cost of buying a new machine. I would say that overall it was a easy repair but lacking the right tools, you may have some trouble removing the pumps plastic strainer screen as I did. I would highly recommend PartsSelect to anyone, and the entire experience was a good one for me.

Removed rack slide end caps. They broke off because of brittleness. Removed rack, then used pliers and/or flat blade screwdriver to remove 4 rollers and axle assemblies. Replaced with new rollers/axles. Return upper rack into slides and installed new end caps. New caps slightly different than old but easily clip into place Upper rack works lile new!

My GE Potscrubber 940 would not drain on all cycles. After checking the basin traps and not finding any blockage in the water drain line, I suspected that the problem was with the drain solenoid, since the motor was running smooth. I removed the dishwasher, primarily by removing the water supply line on the left side from the water inlet valve and disconnecting the electrical connections. Make sure you turn off the water and electricity before you do any work on the dishwasher. With the dishwasher taken out and on its side, the drain solenoid unit will be visible near the motor in the middle assuming that the front bottom panel of the dishwasher has been removed. I found mine to be all crudded up. I removed the electrical connections and the solenoid bracket. Then by using my multimeter, I found a bad resistance reading (infinity) for the solenoid. I ordered the Drain Solenoid Repair Kit and replaced all the items except the plastic rocker arm. Naturally, just reverse your steps to get the dishwasher back together. Turn the water and electricity back on and fire her up. Check for proper operation and any leaks and you should be done.

I would like to start-off by saying that I love this site . I've never been even remotely dissatisfied with parts I've ordered and the installation videos are awesome! I would recommend this site to anyone looking to repair appliances. Secondly, I am a retired mechanical designer with over 35 years of experience. I have a broad range of design experience in consumer, governmental, industrial and military part and product design. My opinion about the design having to do directly with my appliance is not very high and after talking with another local parts supplier discovered that this particular design is approximately 20 years old. I wonder how many dishwashers are leaking without the consumer realizing they have this problem. I followed the installation instructions provided by this site verbatim and the dishwasher still leaked like a sieve. This in my opinion goes back to my remarks concerning the design. This is a weak design at best and could benefit from an improvement in that area. After I installed the new parts, the push on nut (upon being seated onto the shaft for the drain valve flapper) was loose and spun freely. The push on nut did not properly compress the seal onto and around the flapper shaft nor into the valve housing. Water leaked through the seal as a result. I disassembled all of the parts again and placed a flat washer between the push on nut and the seal, to help compress the seal onto the flapper shaft and into the valve housing. The washer was a stainless steel flat washer with an ID that fit onto the shaft closely, but was a smaller OD than the seal. The washer was about 1/32" thick. Upon reassembly and observation, the dishwasher leak was stopped with the addition of the flat washer and my issue was resolved.

installed new rollers per diagram then installed side ends into sides. Couldn`t have been easier. Dishwasher is like new now.

The repair was as simple as it could be. The real story is being able to find and replace the missing wheels. Your website makes it real simple to find the proper parts, order them and receive them in a few days. Your parts person; Jason was very nice to send me a little note concerning my order. I appreciate that personal touch. I will be a regular customer with that kind of service. Well done/Good Job.
Bill

My suggestion is to replace all four rollers at the same time since they are all the same age. Fortunately, four rollers come in each pack you order. You need to remove the end cap on borh metal rack rods which takes a little doing. You cannot just pull the caps off. You need to twist the end cap to free up the little catch at the rear of the end cap. Once the end caps are off, just pull of the old rollers and install the new ones, replace the end caps and you're done.

pretty easy, take off 7 screws from inside door

only hard part was getting arm to click into lever through the door. if you practice with the parts outside the door they lock together really well :)

I twisted off the old one off and then screwed in the new one. Very easy to install no tools needed.

The new rollers snapped into place on the rack, by simply pushing them in. I was able to do it by hand, my wife could not do the same, so you might use some pliers.

I took out the old one and put the new one in.

Unscrewed old one and installed the new one.

Turned off electical and water - took fillter screen out of inside, unscrewed cap took out valve and replaced it