405010 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Once upon a kitchen dreary.
Washing dishes made me weary.
All the dishes would not clean.
Gunk clogged up my filter screen.
The lower spray arm stuck and rattled.
With flying muck my dishes battled.
The muck had won and I had lost.
The repairman said it would really cost.
And so I did a google search.
Partselect got me out of a lurch.
Correct parts were easy to choose
and service so quick I couldn't lose.
I took off the old parts and tightened the new
No tools were needed my fingers flew.
And now my dishes come out clean
I feel competent and frugal, you know what I mean?

In order to access the fill valve, dishwasher had to be removed from under countertop. Disconnected water supply line and drain hose under sink. Unplugged unit and removed 2 screws holding unit to countertop. I was then able to pull unit out and replace valve. After reinstallation, the same problem existed. Further research pointed to the control module, approx. $100.00 or the motor, approx. $250.00 - $300.00. I than began looking at new dishwashers, but I did email GE with the problem. They suggested I use citric acid or vinegar in hot water, pour into right rear portion of tub and wait 1/2 hour. After doing that, the dishwasher worked perfectly.

Just put axle and wheel together and popped them on. Thank you. I know you saved me a bundle.

Repair easy. . Snap it in. . . . . . Impressed with the speedy delivery. Thanks

Simply discarded old wheel assembly and snapped new wheel assembly in place. Very simple.

It was easy as pie. The new wheels came with the new axles already attached, and the whole wheel just snapped onto the lower rack. I ordered 6 and they arrived quickly and attached within minutes, and the dishwasher actually works better now that the rack is raised properly. Thank you!

Bottom rack - slide the old one out, slide the new one in. The rack came came with the wheels, so I didn't use the replacement ones.
Top rack - remove the rail end caps - they will likely break so order new ones. Slide the rack out. Remove the rotating spray arm and then remove all the brackets. I was able to re-use the old brackets and didn't need the replacements. Install the old brackets on the new rack, install the spray arm, and slide the new rack back into the rails. The new top rack also came with wheels installed, so I didn't use the replacement ones. Once the rack is back in the rails, install new rail end caps. Put them in sideways and facing into the washer. Straighten the caps and turn them into place. Be careful with the rail caps - they break easy and are expensive. Make sure they hold the top rack in place, and that's it.

The connector pump had a pinhole leak at the seam (new part did not have seams). Also replaced the sump inlet which looked worn and the impeller.

Lay dishwasher on it's back to access the bottom. Loosen all clamps. Remove both U shaped holders on the sump inlet. Remove screws holding the drain motor. Pull out the pump motor and sump inlet. Connector pump can be unscrewed from the bottom.

Replace parts and reassemble. It isn't that bad once you start disassembly, especially for anyone somewhat handy.

First I had to unscrew screws under the counter then pulled built in dishwasher out from under the counter, attached hing arm link to right side bracket on door, and the other end I attatched to a spring at the back of the unit. Thats it! and pushed the dishwasher back into place. All back to normal....by the way Im a 67 yr old great grandmother...

Traced the problem back to the water valve. turned off the water. Disconnected the water inlet and outlet lines. removed the 2 mounting screws and unplugged the terminals.

I removed the screws on the inside of the door assembly, which allows the inside of the door to seperate from the outside. The escuchen (control panel) was easy to remove - the handle actuator is inside the control panel. The handle assembly was easy to take apart and re-assemble with the new handle and spring. I then inserted the control panel back into the outside door and reattached all of the screws with a power drill. This was a repair that a GE-authorized service tech told me was going to be over $540 - he claimed the control panel and door handle/actuator was a single assembly. In the end this repair cost me $14 in parts and 15 minutes of time. I complained to GE Consumer Affairs and they rebated the tech house call back to me in 5 business days.

This was a piece of cake. The original soap dispenser never worked right and always left unused soap. The new part was easy to install and works great. Only needed a 1/4" nut driver and philips screw driver to pull the outside panel and replace the module rinse and cap assy. Easy!

replaced it

Gasket it self was simple. Just pull out the old rubber gasket and "stuff" in the new one. Note the new gasket was 1-2" short, so I used a piece of the old gasket to fill in the missing length.

The "short seal" was a bit of a mystery on how to actually remove the old one. Taking off the door panel, and almost all the screws on the door did nothing to get access to the short seal. Finally, I simply pryed up the plastic door liner just enough to slide out the old seal. it has a "slot" that engages a plastic bar within the door. Putting in the new was a bit trickier, but after some three handed effort I was able to slide and then snap in the new seal.

So, in the end I really needed to remove NO screws to do the job.

After 10 washes, all seems good with NO leaks.

Bottomline, for a 4 year old dishwasher needing these parts is a bit silly. Older dishwashers I owned lasted 10-15 years with ZERO problems.

So much for GE buying all their appliances in China.......

I cut the water off to the DW, unscrewed the water connection to the inlet valve, unplugged the electric connection, disconnected the black rubber line from the valve to the washer, removed the 2 screws holding the valve in place. Put the new valve on by doing the above backwards. I also used white thread tape on any connections that needed it.