40418147 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

First I removed the dishwasher from under the counter. I turned it onto it's side so I had access to the motor and pump underneath. I determined which version of the old pump I had. I removed the old part and easily installed the new motor/pump following the directions. It took a little while for the water to begin flowing when I started it back up. Eventually it did get going.

Once i had the dishwasher removed everything went as the instructions indicated except for the overflow switch.I removed the switch from the old bracket which is not required,just install the switch assy. to the new bracket and proceed as instructed. the total repair shouldn't take more than 1 hour if you don't make the mistake i made.I AM VERY SATISFIED WITH PRODUCT.
I HAD NEXT DAY DELIVERY AT REGULAR POSTAGE CHARGE.

I had hoped to be able to do the entire replacement at the floor level through the front panel without moving the dishwasher out of the cabinet. That turned out to be impossible because two of the machine screws holding in the old pump rusted and would not budge.
I did however manage to do the replacement by moving the dishwasher only 16 to 18" out of the cabinet so that I could work on more than one side. A word of advice: Once the pump is disconnected get it out of the house as soon as possible. It will continue to leak on your floor otherwise. No point in getting your pants, shirt and tools all wet.
The best part of this replacement came when I buttoned the whole thing back-up and ran it. This new pump was significantly less noisy than the old one making it possible to stay in the kitchen and actually have a conversation with someone. (My dog no longer leaves either.)
Would I do it again....you bet!

The motor seized up on my 1990 GE Dishwasher
Repair would cost 360. Replacement about 600
I ordered the motor and pump from PartSelect for 137..44
Remover the under counter washer (it‘s very light) and removed the water and drain line and disconnected the power. Turned the washer on it’s top to access the motor and pump and removed the electrical plug in lines, and the clamps holding the pump on to the connections. Replaced it with the new motor and pump, reconnected the electrical plug ins, added an adapter hose part, tightened the original clamps then reconnected the water, drain and electrical connections and reinstalled the washer. All in about an hour, The only glitch was the grounding screw for the ground wire on the motor. The screw was too long to tighten. Substituted the original shorter ground screw from the old motor, and that worked fine. Only used 4 parts from the large assortment of parts supplied.
Immediately ran the washer through a cycle, all worked perfectly.

1. I pulled off the plastic end caps to the top rack that allows the roller wheels to be pulled out of the aluminum rails. You need to push in the raised edge of the plastic caps so they clear the rail slot in order to remove them. This takes a little bit of finger pressure or you can use a flat-edge screw driver to pop them out.
2. Once this procedure is completed, you simply remove the rack and rollers from both rails and remove the old roller wheels and replace them with the new ones.
3. I used a phillips-head screw driver to tighten up the rail wheels before re-installing the top rack into the rails and then re-inserted the end caps. Pliers are handy to help get the end caps back into the rail slots.
4. I finally used a silcon spray on all of the rolling parts of the top tray assembly for lubrication.

I removed the front bottom panels to give me access to the Solenoid area. I did not take out the dishwasher from the cabinetry. I removed the screws holding the solenoid assembly and the C clip holding the hand fan shaped white nylon thing onto the valve shaft. I slipped these to the side. Then I cut through and removed the push on nut with a wire snipper plier. Then I used a knife blade tip to pick out the black seal. I then slipped the new seal onto the shaft, being careful that the flat side was outward, and slid it down the shaft and , with my fingernail, pushed it completely flush into position. The biggest challenge was the push on nut. It does not push on easily and must have the lips pointed outward. It required the use of a 3/8" diamater tube slipped over the shaft to tap the nut down the shaft. This caused the shaft to push into the pump housing, which caused the valve to bind. So I used a vice grip to pull out on and hold the shaft while I tapped the push on nut with a flat head screwdriver. Then I just reversed the solenoid assembly removal. But , when I ran the dishwasher, it no longer leaked.

Old cap was already off and had string on it. Cut the string. Placed end cap over. Used needle nose pliers to open metal rail a little and put in new cap. Locked right in. That was easy. Thanks again.

Replaced door seal, right and left corner seals. Piece of cake. A five minute job.

Thanks

Pulled the basket out the appliance and took what was left of the roller off and replaced them and slid the basket back onto the slide channel into the appliance. Then snapped the end caps on. Almost too simple. Less money than it costs to have the service man ring your door bell.

After disconnecting the supply and drain hoses I unscrewed the security screws and slid the unit out of it's space under the counter. I tipped the machine about 30-45 degrees to one side and examined the underside. I noticed a solenoid that appeared to control a valve leading to the drain tube. I cycled the washer through a wash cycle and noticed that the solenoid never activated. I removed the solenoid and found it filled with debris. I cleaned it out and reinstalled it, but it still did not function. I ordered the part from PartSelect.com because they had the clearest description of the part I needed. Delivery was quick and installation took only a few minutes. After hooking everything back up and sliding the machine back in place, it works like new.

unscrewed bracket unplugged solenoid , pried off spring clip pulled nylon arm off and took off old push on nut. I had to squeeze the push on nut together with pliers from two angles to get it loose

Took off the lower faceplates. Removed the old eyelet assemblies (one broken, one not) and replaced both with new ones. Very easy to repair.

Once the new motor and pump kit arrived. I removed the dishwasher, turned it upside down and replaced the motor and pump with the new one per the directions. Difficulty came in feeding the electrical wire/plug back through the cabinets. Once done, turned on the dishwasher, filled the tub, then manually moved the dial to drian. The water still would not drain from the tub. I searched further for the problem. Here it is; Found the air gap tube was plugged with food. Once I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the air gap, the tub drained fast and everything works great. So, I hope you folks put this up in your troubleshooting section for others to check before buying a pump and motor kit. If you had, I would have been able to check out the air gap, clean it out first before spending $140.00 for a pump and motor kit I didn't need. Anyway, lessons learned..Jeff

The leak was coming from the drain valve shaft and I found the tips to replace the seal from this website. I was able to reach everything without removing the dishwasher from the cabinet. Once I got the cam lifter off the old push on nut was corroded so it was easy to get off. The old seal was recessed so I used the point of an ice pick to gently pry it out. The new seal was easy to push in place but the push on nut was a bear. I saw other comments about using a deep socket to push it on but I didn't have one the right size. I was able to hold the end of the shaft with pliers and pushed the nut in place using a screwdriver. Ran a short cycle and no more leak. Thank goodness for this website. Found the part easily and the other written comments were very helpful.

Replaced all ordered parts.