40400119 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I made a substitute cable that worked ok, but was a bit loose. When the new cable part came in I simply unhooked the substitute and hooked the new part in its place. The two spring ends slip into a hole on the cable connector. The cable loops under a plastic pulley and the far end piece fits over a small retainer. Actually, unbolting the bottom case parts and bolting them back on took more time than replacing the broken cable. The door works fine now.

The hardest part is removing the plastic stop on the end of the two slides that support the roller rack. My unit was very old and I was afraid the plastic was brittle. Fortunately, the plastic could still be bent without breaking. You need to physically bend the plastic stops to remove. They came out easily, but you do need to apply some force.

Replacing the rollers was simple. Replacing the stops was easy once you understand how to pry them out. I would recommend trying to remove the stops with your hand only at first. You are less likely to damage the plastic.

I removed the screws from inside door panel. Took door panel out. Noted the way the old gasket was placed, removed it and replaced with the new gasket. Replaced the door panel. Felt pretty proud of myself until I realized that the door lock wouldn't work when I was going to run it. I have now removed the door panel again and am trying to get the door lock lever to work.

With coin, to remove the end cap from the front inside of the rail, insert the edge of the coin into the side of the end cap and push the coin to the rear while rotating the end cap to the inside of the tray until it comes free. Don't force. Pepeat for other rail. Repeat to reinstall end caps. You can can now slide out the the tray. Use long nose pliers to remove old rollers and insert new roller(s) on same prong. Do all 4. Reinsert tray and end caps.

Door seal was brittle and flat.
Not a hard job to do just having to keep making sure the seal did not pop out on the bottom corners of the door. The seal would tare easy so have to be careful. Before you remove the old seal on the bottom of door there is a 4 inch space between the ends of the seal. Mark the spot with marker so you know where to start placing the new seal.
Baffles were orginaly put in place with plummer putty, do not use this. Get GE clear seal is the best will hold forever but will come loose with a good tug. easy to clean out when replacing baffles again. Do not use any sealent when inserting the door seal just push into opening. Make sure you support the door when pushing down on door to put the seal in the slots.
The hardest part is the bottom corners the seal tends to slip out I found that if I streached the seal over the openings and continued on and come back to the corners it was easier to make the seal slip in.

Had to remove entire lower unit from dishwasher but it is a tight fit between the pump inlet flange and the floor.The next problem was to get the E clip off of the valve shaft. I knew the E clip had to be a straight fit when put back on the shaft so I had to straighten out before putting it back on the shaft after putting the new seal on the shaft correctly.Put the solonoid back on and made sure the valve shaft turned freely. Next fun was getting the pump unit back in place. Not easy (clearance) but got-er done!

I removed the two screw at the top holding the dishwasher to the counter top; pulled on the unit - but found it stuck on something.
Of course the hot water feed and the drain hose were still connected and would not let the unit move out any further as there was no slack.
If I had thought about it - I would have disconnected these from under the adjacent sink. But I ended up lying on the floor trying to disconnect them from underneath the unit. It was a bit difficult as there was very little room to move the wrench and the screwdriver.
Once done, the unit came out very easily.
When tipped over I disconnected the old motor and replaced with the new. It was a very different design but fitted in very easily. The hanger took a bit of working out as the diagrams are not very clear.
The wires and clips went together easily. Once I had cleaned everything around the motor and the gunge that cames from years or washing dishes, it went back the way it came out. Albeit with the same difficulty with feed and drain hose.
We ran the unit with no dishes for a couple of times to clear our the muck left in the pipes when the system was down.
Now we have a fully functioning dishwasher again. Cost $250 for the pump and motor as opposed to the $800+ unit my wife was looking at!

Ordered motor and pump and replaced. Motor pump kit also comes with a drain solinoid so if that was the problem the kit repaired it. One issue is the size of the hanger to ensure the pump does not just hang on its mount. The directions were not very clear and after some trial and error I got it to work to.

removed the end caps and took the rack out of the dish washer.

found right front rack roller bad and replaced.

slide rack back into dishwasher and replace end caps.

1 - unscrew that holded the machine in place, these screws were on the top of machine.
2 - pull out machine about 5 inches.
3 - unscrew the cover at the bottom cover. there were 4 screws, 2 on the left and 2 on the right.
4 - connect 2 cables in series with 2 springs.
5 - hook one end of 1st cable to the left pin and the other end of 2nd cable to the right pin.
6 - slide both cables lay on both wheels.
7 - Tight all 4 screws back to their place and push machine in place.
8 - tight the last 2 screw which hold machine in place.

I used Partselect.com website to educate myself on parts needed for my model of dishwasher. Also reviewed repair instructions by others on the website and learned repair and replacement was straight forward and simple. I ordered parts from Partselect.com, they came promptly, and were the correct parts. Based on the repair instructions, I removed the fascia panel at the bottom of my dishwasher to expose the cable and spring setup for my model dishwasher, cleaned the area and installed the new parts - it took only a few minutes - then I replaced the panel and secured it with the sheet metal screws that were holding it in place. I opened the dishwasher door. My wife had already cleaned the corners of the tub where the old baffles had been, so I pressed the new baffles into place with my fingers - no tools were required for baffle installation. Dishwasher is back in service; thanks to the information, parts and prompt service provided by Partselect.com ! My wife is pleased and so am I.

researched the problem, listened to you tube, ordered the parts
and did the repair. Very easy to do, only took a few minutes.

The cable attachment comes with the two hole loop assembly that the springs hook into. With the lower panel off and the door closed, the other end of the cable assembly hooks onto the fitting on the side of the door. No tools required except the phillips head screw driver to take off the lower panel.

removed both corner baffles, also door gasket was bad, all parts were easy to order and install, the customer service was excellant with all my questions and concerns to get the right part and the parts arrived in just two days, thank you

Removed the 7 screws from inner side of door; removed set screw from handle; removed inner door cover; pulled old part out; pushed new part in and Voila! Replaced all screws, no problem. Thanks for your great customer service!