403111 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I called your tech and she sent me a awesome video that made it so easy to fix on my own

placed the end cap into location and forced it into place. Fixed -and we are all much happier!!

Used teflon tape around new 3/8 elbow. Re-installed valve in originals postion. Connected supply hose and reconnected electrical to valve.

Literally 1 minute to replace. They are perfect and an easy fix for split tongs on the wine glass holders

Unscrewed the old roller. But it was difficult to replace the roller as the rim of the roller would not fit into the slide mechanism and allow the screw to engage the hole. What I thought would be a 2 minute job turned out to be more like 20 minutes. I suspect there is a way to release the slide stop so that the top basket could be removed with its slide bar, but I did not see how to do that. I finally was able to "force" the screw into the hole

I just had to play around with it to attach the new cap without breaking it.....never did this before but eureka! it worked.

Repaired the soap dispenser.

The top right rail, facing the dishwasher, has a self lock tab. Using pliers, straighten the lock tab, insert the cap and then restore the lock tab to it's original position.

and figured that was the problem. After a call to a delightful young lady in your service department We concluded that these rollers were the only thing available. Dejected I went back to my project with the intent of removing the wheels and grinding them down BUT 1st I gave it one more try and after some careful alined--Presto they rolled into the 2 tracks. I snapped the end caps on tracks--Problems solved--Please note: if these parts were taken off of my Bill Please Recharge them to me.THANK YOU ALL (IT WORKS LIKED A NEW WASHER) RON TUCKER 302 449-0342

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

So easy, even I was able to do it. Slide tabs back on defective basket and remove both sides, then slide the tabs onto new basket and place in dishwasher. All Done!

Followed the instructions that came with the my order

Used Phillips screwdriver to undo brackets that keep dishwasher in place. Pulled out dishwasher from underneath the counter. Placed hinge arm in spring, hooked spring onto clip, placed hinge arm in clip. Put back dishwasher under the counter and screwed in place. Took all of 15 minutes. Saved 185.00 for service call.

Watched the video, and followed the directions. Although my machine had some slight differences, the repair went pretty much per the video. Got all connections back where they belonged, cleaned up the insides a little while had the door parts separated, then buttoned it all back up, ran a cleaning solution thru empty washer, let it dry then started filling with dishes and ran the wash cycle the next day when full. All is well.

Do not overlook the two screws on the bottom of the outer door panel.