400871 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Just took the old rusty rack out and put the new one in its place.

Opened the package and screwed in the new rinse aid fill cap. No problems. It fit and works just fine.

Pulled the basket out the appliance and took what was left of the roller off and replaced them and slid the basket back onto the slide channel into the appliance. Then snapped the end caps on. Almost too simple. Less money than it costs to have the service man ring your door bell.

To remove the upper rack, twist the support rail end caps toward the center of the machine and slightly downward. The caps will come off and you can slide the new rack into place. Reverse the process to replace the end caps. One of mine broke and I will need to order replacements.
The original rack is no longer available. The replacement, which is the only one GE offers, has less storage space and is not as sturdy. It bends downward when full. I am very disappointed and recommend not replacing the rack unless you have no other choice.

My son found a water leak and cut the water supply off. He then pulled the machine from under the counter at which time I examined the valve under pressure and saw the leak. We cut the water off again and after tripping the circuit breaker we pulled the electrical connector and undid the mounting bracket which made getting the lines off the valve much simpler. New valve in hand I attached the lines and did a test then remounted the bracket and attached the electric. Easy as pie!

It was tricky to get the old rack off. Usually you can unclip the clips closest to the front wheels to pull the rack out. However, there is an area behind one of the wheels that you can kind of release and than pull the rack out. You then have to slide out the funnel/fan piece from the middle. That piece slides/ snaps in the middle of the the new rack. Then slide the new rack in place, re attach the release used to slide oldrack out.
That is it !!

First I replaced the flapper valve of of off the water pump. That worked for a couple of days, then the standing water was back. After more research at your site I ran across other person who had the same problem and they ended up replacing the piston and valve assembly. After pulling the dishwasher out I was able to find where these parts were located. The piston's rubber part was half gone. I replaced it and the gasket and another flapper valve. This model has two flapper valves. One difficulty was that you have to replace the screen inside the dishwasher before you replace the housing that the piston fits in. Your site and other folks contributing their stories helphed me to solve our problem. The dishwasher works like new now. Thanks. Ralph Naddeo.

I unscrewed the check valve, tipped the dishwasher on its face, and removed the asembly below it. Then replaced the valve flapper, cleaned out the assembly (broken champagne glass and udder nasties) then put it back the way I found it.
Then I put the new check valve on, and started the dishwasher up.

10 screws and $30 worth of parts saved me 400 bones for buying a new dishwasher.


If you have sanding water in your dishwasher check these two parts.....that check valve is the culpret.

At first I found some water on my hardwood floor by the dishwasher, I thought that I might spilled't the day before, then it hapened again, so I remover the front lower cover for the dishwasher and I found water under the dishwasher, then I turned on the machine and I found a pin hall water leak from the water inlet valve. I turned the machine off, then I closed the water valve under the sink, then I disconected the power plug from the valve, the diconected the water supply copper pipe, then diconected the house from the valve to dishwasher, then got the part# from the valve sticker and the model# for the dishwasher from inside of the door. after that I went online and I got the valve. make sure to try more than one website because they all have differant prices, and Parts Select was the lowest one.

with electric power and water source turned off,I first bailed out the water from tub then I pulled dishwasher out from under cabinet . Then I removed the motor and pump and put it on the table. I took a digital photo so I could remember exactly how everything was assembled. I checked for clogs and damage and realized that the solonoid casing had melted around the armature link assembly . I Looked at diagram for parts name and number and ordered from parts select. In the meantime I put a temporary one feed valve on hot water feed line so I could have access to hot water in kitchen while I waited for parts wich were here in a couple of days. Put it all back and it runs fine. Thank for your help

Just lift out the old dishrack and put in the new. Very easy and straightforward. Easy to order, unit came assembled. Happy customer.

Leaking at bottom of door edge - ordered new gaskets all around - no sense in replacing one at a time and paying extra shipping. Removed screws on the inside of the door panel and it lifted off easily. bottom corner of gasket was black and that is where some of the leaking was from. I replaced the door seal and ran the washer and it still leaked.... Pulled the washer out from the enclosure and it was quite wet back there - so I wanted to pull the washer to dry and clean things up - turned off power and water and remove screws at top edge that secure it to countertop. Insulation wrap was wet - Removed that and put it into the sun to dry - no sign of where water was leaking - reconnected water and power and ran a cycle with the washer pulled out - slowly leaking from top of washer where hose enters the top sprayer. Was easy to get to the sprayer - two little screws hold it in - removed the hose that feeds the sprayer and it was disintegrating - crumbly- I ordered the part and put it all back together and used a washer at the sprayer/hose junction to compress the fitting in hopes it would hold until the replacement came - it did. The replacement installed in 10 mins and did not need to disconect water or power. I would suggest replacing this hose at the same time you replace door seals based on condition of my hose.

Replaced all ordered parts.

First I looked for blockage and found none.I took the pump off and hooked power to it in my work shop and it did spin when powered up.We had broken a glass in the washer and thats when the problem started. I did find a few small pieces in the check valve assembly. It did not look bad but for cheap I ordered the part. Ran the washer and it drained on the wash but not on the final. Turned off the power.Slid the wash out where I could get to the power and not unhook the water. Turning off the power I disconnected the wires and carefully turned the power on and touched them to the pump and forced it to drain knowing that the pump worked I thought it would at least empty the water. I touched the wires to the pump and the board clicked the water drained. Hooked it back up. Ran it and has been working great since.

Once the new motor and pump kit arrived. I removed the dishwasher, turned it upside down and replaced the motor and pump with the new one per the directions. Difficulty came in feeding the electrical wire/plug back through the cabinets. Once done, turned on the dishwasher, filled the tub, then manually moved the dial to drian. The water still would not drain from the tub. I searched further for the problem. Here it is; Found the air gap tube was plugged with food. Once I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the air gap, the tub drained fast and everything works great. So, I hope you folks put this up in your troubleshooting section for others to check before buying a pump and motor kit. If you had, I would have been able to check out the air gap, clean it out first before spending $140.00 for a pump and motor kit I didn't need. Anyway, lessons learned..Jeff