GQB7729VB149 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

turn wand counter clockwise until it's out,replace it with the new one.DON'T OVERTIGHTEN!

Simply screwed in new cap

i removed the old power tower with a regular plumbers pliers spining SLOWLY and firmly but no too firm until it broke loose and unscrewed. I reintalled the new tower oppisite how i removed it being carefull not to overtighten. all is well. it was very ez, so much in fact that my wife thought she was going to be able to read a book waiting for me "all afternoon" to fix it! Bad news, I had to take her shopping!

i was impressed with the ease and speed of normal delivery of this part. this is a quality company. JS

I just plugged in the model number and a screen came up that showed all the part numbers that made up the model. picked out the parts that we needed and ordered it and within 2 day we had the new basket that we needed for our dish washer.
the service and ease was better that going to the appliance store and picking up the basket.
I was very happy the the service.
Donald Brown

Went to repair parts on troubleshooting and found check valve assembly to be most common problem. Went to parts diagram to locate assembly and found it somewhat confusing as to exact location. Ordered part(s) on percentage as the problem. Received part next day (great)! Pulled dishwasher out and found I did NOT need to do so to replace check valve which is replaced without having to remove dishwasher. The gasket replacement was not necessary as it seals sump area from bottom of dishwasher and not the valve as it appears on the parts diagram. It took about 2 minutes to replace valve itself and it was the cause of the problem.

First I removed the four screws holding on two metal panels to gain access to the springs. Then I unhooked the broken assembly from the springs. Then I hooked the new assembly to the hinge. Finally, I reconnected the assembly to the springs. (I didn't have to unhook the assembly from the hinge because it had already broken off.)

This part must be one of those that commonly goes because I had replaced the other side about a year ago. The most difficult part a year ago was diagnosing the problem and figuring out how the pieces fit together. This now it was a quick repair because I knew exactly how to fix it. (And thanks to PartSelect for delivering the part in 48 hours even though I didn't pay for quick delivery.)

pretty easy, take off 7 screws from inside door

only hard part was getting arm to click into lever through the door. if you practice with the parts outside the door they lock together really well :)

Turned off electical and water - took fillter screen out of inside, unscrewed cap took out valve and replaced it

I would like to start-off by saying that I love this site . I've never been even remotely dissatisfied with parts I've ordered and the installation videos are awesome! I would recommend this site to anyone looking to repair appliances. Secondly, I am a retired mechanical designer with over 35 years of experience. I have a broad range of design experience in consumer, governmental, industrial and military part and product design. My opinion about the design having to do directly with my appliance is not very high and after talking with another local parts supplier discovered that this particular design is approximately 20 years old. I wonder how many dishwashers are leaking without the consumer realizing they have this problem. I followed the installation instructions provided by this site verbatim and the dishwasher still leaked like a sieve. This in my opinion goes back to my remarks concerning the design. This is a weak design at best and could benefit from an improvement in that area. After I installed the new parts, the push on nut (upon being seated onto the shaft for the drain valve flapper) was loose and spun freely. The push on nut did not properly compress the seal onto and around the flapper shaft nor into the valve housing. Water leaked through the seal as a result. I disassembled all of the parts again and placed a flat washer between the push on nut and the seal, to help compress the seal onto the flapper shaft and into the valve housing. The washer was a stainless steel flat washer with an ID that fit onto the shaft closely, but was a smaller OD than the seal. The washer was about 1/32" thick. Upon reassembly and observation, the dishwasher leak was stopped with the addition of the flat washer and my issue was resolved.

Our older GE dishwasher was leaking water on the floor while running. After inspecting it while running I was able to determine that the water was coming from the seal around the motors shaft where it entered the pump. I then looked up the washers model number and ordered the impeller shaft seal kit. To my suprise the kit arrived the very next day! After disconnecting the power and water supplies from the dishwasher , I then removed it from the cabinet base and turned it over to gain easy access to the bottom. Using nothing more than a nut driver, adjustable wrench and a pair of pliers I was able to loosen the two compression clamps and two hose clamps that hold the pump to the bottom of the washers tub. I then removed the entire pump and took it to my work bench for the rest of the repair. Removing the plastic impeller strainer was the toughest part.. Lacking the proper spanner wrench, I had no tool that would lock onto the raised tabs to turn it loose with. I was able to position the tabs in the jaws of my workbench vise and giving the entire pump a little twist, It broke free and I was then able to unscrew the rest of the way it by hand.. The old dried up detergent made for a good adhesive, and after removal I cleaned the area completely so the new strainer would thread in easy. I installed the new parts in the kit as per the supplied instructions and re-installed the pump housing back on the dishwasher and put it all back in place. After running it several times not a drip was to be seen, and I was very pleased with the whole process. With the shipping it cost me just $25.00, and it saved me a expensive service call or maybe even the cost of buying a new machine. I would say that overall it was a easy repair but lacking the right tools, you may have some trouble removing the pumps plastic strainer screen as I did. I would highly recommend PartsSelect to anyone, and the entire experience was a good one for me.

Pulled unit out of cabinet took two top screws out of spinner spray arm and put back together.Old sprayer was plugged up not letting wash go through.Thanks for helping me fix and not replace unit.Saved at least 400.

The new rollers snapped into place on the rack, by simply pushing them in. I was able to do it by hand, my wife could not do the same, so you might use some pliers.

over time the upper rack axles broke so the rack would just come out of the rollers. I ordered the parts from here and had to youtube how to get the stops out so I didn't have to unscrew the metal guides out making an easy job into a hard one. all you have to do is with a flat head screw driver is slightly bend the plastic end part of the stop which is in the metal guide that stops the wheels from coming out of the guides. once you bend out the plastic end you then turn the stop to get it out of the metal guides. if you youtube it its very easy. just be easy when you bend the plastic piece because I can see it breaking. I didn't break mine so the job was very very easy and took all of about 5 to 10 minutes to complete the entire job. I love this site it had real life info to help out when you need to do a job and trouble shoot your appliance.

Pop the end caps off the slides by pushing the lock tab in with a medium flat screwdriver, through the square hole in the side of the slide. Pull the rack out and set it on the counter. Pop the axles off, with the rollers, with your fingers. They are just clipped on to the rack wire. Pop the new ones on 4 places, fingers only needed to clip them to the wire. Put the rack back in the dishwasher by aligning the rollers in the metal slides and pushing it in like normal. Pop the rack slide end caps in by just pushing them in. If you're smart you bought new ones, they're cheap insurance. Save any good used parts in your kitchen junk drawer for the next time you treat it rough. Less than 5 minutes to fix. So easy a caveman could do it. One just did!

Looked up possible causes on your website. Website stated that more than 50% of time the cause was the piston and nut assembly. Removed the piston and nut assembly in bottom of unit behind screen on rear wall and saw that the gasket seal was completely gone . Ordered the part. took less than 10 minutes to install. Tested the unit and it drained completely. Thank you as i was looking at a more difficult repair if the pump had to be replaced.Repair cost less than $20.00.Before changing piston and nut assembly I cleaned the strainer and sump. disconnected drain hose and checked for blockage . i than checked your website that listed the piston assembly as the culprit more than 50% of the time. Thanks again