400811 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Once i had the dishwasher removed everything went as the instructions indicated except for the overflow switch.I removed the switch from the old bracket which is not required,just install the switch assy. to the new bracket and proceed as instructed. the total repair shouldn't take more than 1 hour if you don't make the mistake i made.I AM VERY SATISFIED WITH PRODUCT.
I HAD NEXT DAY DELIVERY AT REGULAR POSTAGE CHARGE.

First I removed the dishwasher from under the counter. I turned it onto it's side so I had access to the motor and pump underneath. I determined which version of the old pump I had. I removed the old part and easily installed the new motor/pump following the directions. It took a little while for the water to begin flowing when I started it back up. Eventually it did get going.

The repair went smoothly. There were actually instructions included with the parts, so that was nice. The only "gotcha" I found was that . . . after you take off the old food-chopper, you have unscrew the old impeller from the motor shaft. This was a bit difficult and you'll want some good pliers to do it. Don't worry about stripping where the food chopper screwed on-to, that part is attached to the impeller and there is a new one on the new impeller. When I re-installed everything onto the dishwasher, it rattled the first couple of times while the wear-ring was finding it's seat. Don't worry, that's normal. It went away by the third wash. I think I still have a small crack in the pump housing, though. The pump housing is two halves of molded plastic fused together along a seam, and I think the seam is starting to leak. It's about one drop every 45 seconds. I'm thinking JB Weld will fix it.

Since the pump and the motor was a single unit, I removed the assembly by disconnecting the electrical plugs and drainage connections. This was a very simple installation. I reversed the above steps, reinstalled the dishwasher and all worked out well.

The repair was really easy. I ordered the part needed after looking at this website. I figured out the problem by looking into the forums. I ordered the part. It came within several days. I got home from work and after dinner pulled the dishwasher from under the kitchen counter. It was easy to do. I flipped the dishwasher on its side. Then removed the old part. It had a water inlet that required a fitting to be loosened with a wrench. It also had a flexible water fill that was attached with a cable clamp. (Remember to turn your water supply off first!) The wiring was disconnected by a simple harness. Four bolts had to be removed to pull the part off of the dishwasher body.

Installation was the reverse of this process. Have been using for a week now and the problem is corrected. Doing business with Parts Select is awesome. I know that over the last several years I have saved tons of money and learned that I can fix nearly any appliance by viewing this website.

It is pretty easy to replace the parts because the new and old parts are identical. I unplugged wire connection, removed the two screws and one small metal piece that fixes the plastic moving part, then put back with new parts.
A little bit extra time may needed due to small space in that location, also the small or flexable screw driver is needed.

I only had to remove the inside door panel then the bad control panel , a total of 10 screws, and then plug in the 3 harnesss wires. FIred it up and worked like a champ!

1. I pulled off the plastic end caps to the top rack that allows the roller wheels to be pulled out of the aluminum rails. You need to push in the raised edge of the plastic caps so they clear the rail slot in order to remove them. This takes a little bit of finger pressure or you can use a flat-edge screw driver to pop them out.
2. Once this procedure is completed, you simply remove the rack and rollers from both rails and remove the old roller wheels and replace them with the new ones.
3. I used a phillips-head screw driver to tighten up the rail wheels before re-installing the top rack into the rails and then re-inserted the end caps. Pliers are handy to help get the end caps back into the rail slots.
4. I finally used a silcon spray on all of the rolling parts of the top tray assembly for lubrication.

I found that the supplied part did not have threads to receive the bolts that were used in the original part. I had to locate thin nuts and bolts and very awkwardly fit those in behind the part. The orignal part would have just bolted on from the front. I almost returned the part as unsatifactory, but decided to make do. Otherwise it would have been a 10 min job.

I pulled the dishwasher out and detached the drain hose. I attached the new drain hose after cleaning out the connection to the garbage disposal.

Now my dishwasher doesn't stink anymore!

Opened the package and screwed in the new rinse aid fill cap. No problems. It fit and works just fine.

I removed the front bottom panels to give me access to the Solenoid area. I did not take out the dishwasher from the cabinetry. I removed the screws holding the solenoid assembly and the C clip holding the hand fan shaped white nylon thing onto the valve shaft. I slipped these to the side. Then I cut through and removed the push on nut with a wire snipper plier. Then I used a knife blade tip to pick out the black seal. I then slipped the new seal onto the shaft, being careful that the flat side was outward, and slid it down the shaft and , with my fingernail, pushed it completely flush into position. The biggest challenge was the push on nut. It does not push on easily and must have the lips pointed outward. It required the use of a 3/8" diamater tube slipped over the shaft to tap the nut down the shaft. This caused the shaft to push into the pump housing, which caused the valve to bind. So I used a vice grip to pull out on and hold the shaft while I tapped the push on nut with a flat head screwdriver. Then I just reversed the solenoid assembly removal. But , when I ran the dishwasher, it no longer leaked.

Just took the old rusty rack out and put the new one in its place.

Old cap was already off and had string on it. Cut the string. Placed end cap over. Used needle nose pliers to open metal rail a little and put in new cap. Locked right in. That was easy. Thanks again.

Changed check valve and valve flapper. Had to pull dishwasher out of cabinet to get to the backside. Removed check valve and replaced valve from inside dishwasher ( all the way at the back, large nut holds in)but had to remove lower assembly from rear in order to change out the gasket. Removed large black flexible tube and replaced flapper valve. Just be carefull sliding hose back over section containing flapper valve. Fairly easy switch out. Took care of problem.