GSD4108X02WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Replaced lower rack with new. Upper rack removed front stoppers, removed old rack, slit new rack in and replaced stoppers. Total time about 15 mins.

I had already removed the screws that hold the inner door piece in place when diagnosing the problem. I snapped the new controller in place, put the 3 or so screws back in that hold it to the door, and replugged the wire harness connections from the power and the Sequencer. I put the inner piece of the door in place and replaced those 5 or so screws and restored power from the breaker box. The dishwasher gave a solid beep while the clean light flashed continuously. No other buttons were responsive and pressing the reset button caused a beep but nothing else. I began to research and diagnose that problem which was leading me to the Sequencer when I realized there was a "rewiring" plug on the controller I replaced that was not on the new controller. The controller which is made by Torisan is a generic part used by many manufacturers. The "rewiring" plug which goes into slot CN5 on the controller circuit card, which has wires that comes out of it and go back into other slots in the plug, is used to get the get the correct "pinout" sequence for GE's use of this generic component. Although I could find no information on this, the continuous beep was telling me there was a wiring problem. I removed the plug from the old controller, put it in CN5 of the new controller and the dishwasher works like a charm.

Removed dishwasher, took off motor, and ordered part. It was delivered in a timely fashion (3 days). Determined which directions to follow. Used screwdriver to hook up motor. Put dishwasher back into cabinet area, made sure there were no leaks before fastening the dishwasher in place. Took about 1/2 hour to complete process. Very satisfied.

Simply screwed in new cap

Went to repair parts on troubleshooting and found check valve assembly to be most common problem. Went to parts diagram to locate assembly and found it somewhat confusing as to exact location. Ordered part(s) on percentage as the problem. Received part next day (great)! Pulled dishwasher out and found I did NOT need to do so to replace check valve which is replaced without having to remove dishwasher. The gasket replacement was not necessary as it seals sump area from bottom of dishwasher and not the valve as it appears on the parts diagram. It took about 2 minutes to replace valve itself and it was the cause of the problem.

I would like to start-off by saying that I love this site . I've never been even remotely dissatisfied with parts I've ordered and the installation videos are awesome! I would recommend this site to anyone looking to repair appliances. Secondly, I am a retired mechanical designer with over 35 years of experience. I have a broad range of design experience in consumer, governmental, industrial and military part and product design. My opinion about the design having to do directly with my appliance is not very high and after talking with another local parts supplier discovered that this particular design is approximately 20 years old. I wonder how many dishwashers are leaking without the consumer realizing they have this problem. I followed the installation instructions provided by this site verbatim and the dishwasher still leaked like a sieve. This in my opinion goes back to my remarks concerning the design. This is a weak design at best and could benefit from an improvement in that area. After I installed the new parts, the push on nut (upon being seated onto the shaft for the drain valve flapper) was loose and spun freely. The push on nut did not properly compress the seal onto and around the flapper shaft nor into the valve housing. Water leaked through the seal as a result. I disassembled all of the parts again and placed a flat washer between the push on nut and the seal, to help compress the seal onto the flapper shaft and into the valve housing. The washer was a stainless steel flat washer with an ID that fit onto the shaft closely, but was a smaller OD than the seal. The washer was about 1/32" thick. Upon reassembly and observation, the dishwasher leak was stopped with the addition of the flat washer and my issue was resolved.

Put on a new cap.

Took old rack out put new rack

Removed the lower rack. Took off the old wheels. Put the axles on the new wheels which took a little manpower, but became easier once you did a couple (there are 8 wheels). Then snapped the new wheels on the rack which was really simple. The new design is much improved to the old one. The wheels glide better, then they ever did. We're sorry we didn't think of this repair years ago and the cost was a fraction of the cost of a new dishwasher.

over time the upper rack axles broke so the rack would just come out of the rollers. I ordered the parts from here and had to youtube how to get the stops out so I didn't have to unscrew the metal guides out making an easy job into a hard one. all you have to do is with a flat head screw driver is slightly bend the plastic end part of the stop which is in the metal guide that stops the wheels from coming out of the guides. once you bend out the plastic end you then turn the stop to get it out of the metal guides. if you youtube it its very easy. just be easy when you bend the plastic piece because I can see it breaking. I didn't break mine so the job was very very easy and took all of about 5 to 10 minutes to complete the entire job. I love this site it had real life info to help out when you need to do a job and trouble shoot your appliance.

Pop the end caps off the slides by pushing the lock tab in with a medium flat screwdriver, through the square hole in the side of the slide. Pull the rack out and set it on the counter. Pop the axles off, with the rollers, with your fingers. They are just clipped on to the rack wire. Pop the new ones on 4 places, fingers only needed to clip them to the wire. Put the rack back in the dishwasher by aligning the rollers in the metal slides and pushing it in like normal. Pop the rack slide end caps in by just pushing them in. If you're smart you bought new ones, they're cheap insurance. Save any good used parts in your kitchen junk drawer for the next time you treat it rough. Less than 5 minutes to fix. So easy a caveman could do it. One just did!

Looked up possible causes on your website. Website stated that more than 50% of time the cause was the piston and nut assembly. Removed the piston and nut assembly in bottom of unit behind screen on rear wall and saw that the gasket seal was completely gone . Ordered the part. took less than 10 minutes to install. Tested the unit and it drained completely. Thank you as i was looking at a more difficult repair if the pump had to be replaced.Repair cost less than $20.00.Before changing piston and nut assembly I cleaned the strainer and sump. disconnected drain hose and checked for blockage . i than checked your website that listed the piston assembly as the culprit more than 50% of the time. Thanks again

Snapped right in

The wheel kit came with axel's to support them. They snapped in place in seconds. No instructions provided, but installing method was obvious.

I took out the old one and put the new one in.