GRSC345P00SB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

There was a video on the page as the part. Done in a flash. The axle was a little hard to get into the wheel so I soaked it in a little hot water and it whet in like a charm.

Super-easy and quick repair -- quality part snapped right into place.

My GE dishwasher had a problem. The upper rack would fall into the lower rack when loaded breaking dishes! Turns out, the front rollers on the upper rack were broken so that the supports would just pull out. So, I found the parts on this website easily. I then took off the plastic plug on the support which is easy to do. There is a flange you bend towards the rear of the dishwasher to release the plug. Once released you have access to the rollers, which just snap off easily. The new ones snap on easily. Reverse the cap removal, and you are done!

Installed new lower rack wheel kit

Removed the 7 screws from inner side of door; removed set screw from handle; removed inner door cover; pulled old part out; pushed new part in and Voila! Replaced all screws, no problem. Thanks for your great customer service!

removed both corner baffles, also door gasket was bad, all parts were easy to order and install, the customer service was excellant with all my questions and concerns to get the right part and the parts arrived in just two days, thank you

from the information previous customers had written.
it saved a lot of fustration and time
and best of all the dish washer does not leak.

This is a very simple fix. The majority of work comes from getting the unit out of it's enclosed space so it can be worked on. Once the dishwasher is out in the open, lay it on it's side, and simply unscrew some metal clamps, pop out the bad part, replace it with the new, reattach the pieces and clamps, and start putting the unit back in place.

I'm just happy I was able to actually find the part to begin with, and then to make the changes myself is a very rewarding feeling. Instead of missing time from work and shelling out $150+ to have an appliance repair man come out to do the work, I spent $20 for the part, and maybe an hour total to make the repairs.

I'll be back to this site in the future if/when other parts on other appliances go bad.

Removed the white end of the top track. Pulled off the remnants of the rack roller. Slide the rack roller wheel into the track and popped the other end on the top rack (looked at the other rack rollers to see how it fit.) After that, I put the end back on the track.... Note what is the top and what is the bottom of the track end. Realizing that there is a wider area on the track to slide part of the white track end through to get it on without much effort.

Took out old one and put in the new one. Not hard at all. Thanks

The solenoid and linkage was easy to disasemble, but getting the retainer (push on nut) off was difficult without removing the motor and pump. Once removed it was a snap. Getting the pump/motor back onto the pipes was near impossible from underneath. I had to remove the dishwasher from under the countertop to get it back correctly. I would reccomend doing this for this repair, as it made life a lot easier. Unwiring and removing the water supply line was not a problem either. WORKS AS GOOD AS NEW!

Removed stops on top rack. Removed rack, removed all rollers, replaced with the new ones. replace rack in machine replaced stops.

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

Small rubber gasket needed to be replaced. Not the best design by GE, but it has lasted 11 years before leaking.
Needed to remove the solenoid to access the shaft of the valve. Tough to push gasket into place, but eventually it fit in.

Removing the end caps on the rack's sliding arms was the hard part. It took some arm-wrestling and prying with a screwdriver to get them off. Replacing the rollers was a snap. Getting the end caps back on again was easier than removing them.