42561129 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

To remove the upper rack, twist the support rail end caps toward the center of the machine and slightly downward. The caps will come off and you can slide the new rack into place. Reverse the process to replace the end caps. One of mine broke and I will need to order replacements.
The original rack is no longer available. The replacement, which is the only one GE offers, has less storage space and is not as sturdy. It bends downward when full. I am very disappointed and recommend not replacing the rack unless you have no other choice.

Unscrewed 2 screws from under the counter, pulled out dishwasher. Saw where it was leaking. Took wires loose, took the rack out, unscrew the white mesh, took out the dishwasher sump housing product saw a crack and ordered the piece. For anyone out there make sure you turn the electric power switch off before you attempt to fix anything!!!!!!

It was tricky to get the old rack off. Usually you can unclip the clips closest to the front wheels to pull the rack out. However, there is an area behind one of the wheels that you can kind of release and than pull the rack out. You then have to slide out the funnel/fan piece from the middle. That piece slides/ snaps in the middle of the the new rack. Then slide the new rack in place, re attach the release used to slide oldrack out.
That is it !!

Pulled the basket out the appliance and took what was left of the roller off and replaced them and slid the basket back onto the slide channel into the appliance. Then snapped the end caps on. Almost too simple. Less money than it costs to have the service man ring your door bell.

with electric power and water source turned off,I first bailed out the water from tub then I pulled dishwasher out from under cabinet . Then I removed the motor and pump and put it on the table. I took a digital photo so I could remember exactly how everything was assembled. I checked for clogs and damage and realized that the solonoid casing had melted around the armature link assembly . I Looked at diagram for parts name and number and ordered from parts select. In the meantime I put a temporary one feed valve on hot water feed line so I could have access to hot water in kitchen while I waited for parts wich were here in a couple of days. Put it all back and it runs fine. Thank for your help

Once the new motor and pump kit arrived. I removed the dishwasher, turned it upside down and replaced the motor and pump with the new one per the directions. Difficulty came in feeding the electrical wire/plug back through the cabinets. Once done, turned on the dishwasher, filled the tub, then manually moved the dial to drian. The water still would not drain from the tub. I searched further for the problem. Here it is; Found the air gap tube was plugged with food. Once I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the air gap, the tub drained fast and everything works great. So, I hope you folks put this up in your troubleshooting section for others to check before buying a pump and motor kit. If you had, I would have been able to check out the air gap, clean it out first before spending $140.00 for a pump and motor kit I didn't need. Anyway, lessons learned..Jeff

Replaced with a new rinse aid fill cap.

Just lift out the old dishrack and put in the new. Very easy and straightforward. Easy to order, unit came assembled. Happy customer.

The leak was coming from the drain valve shaft and I found the tips to replace the seal from this website. I was able to reach everything without removing the dishwasher from the cabinet. Once I got the cam lifter off the old push on nut was corroded so it was easy to get off. The old seal was recessed so I used the point of an ice pick to gently pry it out. The new seal was easy to push in place but the push on nut was a bear. I saw other comments about using a deep socket to push it on but I didn't have one the right size. I was able to hold the end of the shaft with pliers and pushed the nut in place using a screwdriver. Ran a short cycle and no more leak. Thank goodness for this website. Found the part easily and the other written comments were very helpful.

Took the screws out of the back of the doorl located the switch and replaced it put screws back in and it was fixed

Removed panel to access the interlock switches. There were two. The button on one switch was fine and the button on the other would not depress. Ran a continuity test and it failed. The switch also had a burnt smell

Replaced all ordered parts.

I watched the video and did exactly what he did. I am a novice when it comes to repairs. I learn as I go. This repair went flawlessly. Ordering was quick and easy. The part arrived quickly. The repair took less time than expected. The part was what I needed and nothing else broke or went wrong when repairing the original problem. It was a 100% success.

Removed 4 screws, took off basket covering, put new part in one turn, then replaced covering. Plumber had come out, I watched what he did, he had to order part and come back. I asked how much he didn't know but said cheaper than buying a new dishwasher. When he left I started calling around about the little plastic part that I needed. Part was $15.50. They called and said it would be $110.00. Needless to say I called them out and ordered the part myself and put it in. Took me like 6 minutes and cost $21.69. I was so mad about this situation that I even got my service call money back that I had already paid.

I used the website to identify a few different problem areas. I found that the motor shaft would not turn. Upon removing it, it did turn, which lead me to look at the Impeller which was worn / frozen. Ordered new impeller and installed 100 % success !!!