41841118 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I removed a front access panel below the door and found a broken steel cable going to the spring assembly which helps lift the door. I ordered a replacement from PartSelect which arrived quickly. To fix the problem, all I had to do was attach one end of the cable to the springs, route the cable across a nylon wheel, and slip the eyelet end of the cable onto a mounting post. Then reattach the access panel and I was done. Problem fixed.

Rather than remove the dishwasher from the counter, I performed the repair inplace, which was much less work (although I did have to lay on the floor).
After turning off the power, I removed the two access panels at the bottom of the unit, disconnected the wiring from the pump and solenoid, loosened the drain hose fitting and drained most of the water out of the unit and into a shallow pan (the drain solenoid was stuck open, so this was pretty easy - otherwise, I still could have manually actuated the drain valve & solenoid to drain water through this hose).
There was alot of water in the unit and my pan overflowed a little. If I was doing this again, think I would have disconnected the drain hose from under the sink and drained out through that into a bucket (I could have controlled that flow better).
Once the water was out, there are just two hose clamps that hold the pump onto the unit (one on top and one in the back), and a stabilizer bar that connects the motor to the front frame. Removed these and the whole unit came right out.
The replacement pump & motor was exactly the same as the one that came out, so I didn't need any of the hose or wire adapters that came in the kit.
Reconnected the two pump connections, motor bracket and wiring, and the unit was good-to-go!

I took the inner door panel off as described by others on this website, cleaned out all the gunk left by 27 yrs of use, and replaced the door gasket and tub baffles. A Phillips-head screwdriver was required to remove the door panel, but no tools were required to replace any of the parts I ordered. I didn't find it necessary to soak the door gasket in warm water as it was pretty flexible right out of the package. I recommend stretching the gasket slightly while pressing it into the groove, particularly around corners, or it will end up being too short at the end. The rinse aid tank had also been leaking Jet-Dry for a long time, so I cleaned that mess up as well and tried to replace the tank. Unfortunately, the new tank did not fit my model of dishwasher even though this website and GE's stated that it did. The shaft on the tank that pokes through the inner door panel to the inside of the dishwasher was too short because >2 mm of it was taken up by a thick rubber washer and a hard plastic collar (fused to the shaft to hold the washer in place) that had not been part of my original rinse aid tank. PartSelect was very good about refunding me for the incorrectly identified rinse aid tank and stated that they would contact GE about correcting this error on their website as well. I therefore cleaned up my original rinse aid tank, rinsing out all Jet-Dry residue inside it, and put it back into the inner door panel. I researched this part and found that GE has redesigned it twice since my dishwasher was manufactured in 1985 -- my original part is no longer available anywhere. So, I will just not use Jet-Dry and will maybe upgrade to a dishwasher powder that includes rinse agent (e.g., Cascade Complete). Replacing the gasket and tub baffles and cleaning up my original rinse aid tank stopped the leak for less than the cost of a repairman's service call and diagnosis fees -- it would have cost me 3X more if he had provided the parts and done the repairs! Replacing my dishwasher was out of the question as they do not make them like they used to (i.e., no microchips or motherboards to fail in a few years) -- this is the first problem I've had with my dishwasher in 27 years! As a side note, I also learned from my research that my front door panel insert is reversible. I was able to remove a side trim piece, slide out the panel, and turn it over so the color is now white rather than the outdated almond. It's like I have a brand new dishwasher that is ready to go for another 27 years.

Removed bottom tray from the dishwasher and in the back there is a screen with 5 hex head screws. Removed the screws and then lifted the screen out to expose the vavle. Unscrewed the valve by hand an installed the new one,hand tighten only. Reversed order for reassembly.

First shut off the Power and Water to Dishwasher, removed from under counter, removed sump screen and retaining clamp from sump housing and then loosened seal from inside dishwasher cavity. Upon removal I went in search of a replacement part and found Parts Select on the web, entered my model and make at there web site and found the part I needed, I could verify the size by the easy picture on a one inch tile background for the dimenision . I called in the order since I wanted overnight service, I received the part and after cleaning the area where it goes I proceded to put things back together, this took about a hour and a half and the dishwasher is back in service

Found great information on this site describing the problem. My 9 year old GE Triton dishwasher has not been draining. I thought at first it was something stuck in float somewhere or perhaps a bad pump, but after searching around, I found this site and other stories similar to mine. Most of the reports suggested a worn check valve in the floor of the dishwasher tub, apparently a common issue with some GE models. I removed the strainer located at the back of the tub (4 screws removed w/ 1/4" nutdriver), then unscrewed the check valve to inspect it. Saw that the valve seat was very worn. Ordered the replacement part, received it 4 days later and installed in less than 10 minutes. The best part was I didn't have to remove the dishwasher or crawl underneath to complete the repair. Well worth the $20 for parts & shipping.

First I removed the old gasket and seals. I replaced the seals and had difficulty getting the gasket to seal at the bottom of the door. I had to remove the seven door screws and was able to manipulate the gasket. Do not lift the inside door cover too far, as the latch may become disengaged, thus creating another problem to repair. I did this repair myself (female).

I ordered parts before opening. My theory was to have the parts so that the dishwasher was not apart for longer than necessary, in the hope of avoiding the wrath of momma bear who just wants a new one... Once I opened up the door I realized the spring for the main lever arm had broken its mount. I drilled a new hole and reattached the spring. I did not need any parts. However, the original parts corresponding to the three parts I ordered were all beat up and brittle, so I was happy to replace anyway. I did not even explain, she is happy the cup looks new and is happy with the dishwasher. It even says Cascade on it, almost like an upgrade :). If your cup does not latch I would order the three parts I did and also order the lever spring. It was very corroded after 30 years, so I would have replaced if I purchased it. Next time.. :)

I removed the four screws of the filter frame exposing the check valve (piston and nut assembly) . I unscrewed the old check valve and replaced it with the new one.

I received my dishwasher as a hand me down, my Aunt never liked the way it cleaned. After it sitting for about 2 years i installed it in my house and found that it leaked all the time from where motor shaft went into the pump housing. After disassembling everything and scouring parts sites online, I found the parts, ordered them. 3 days later i had the parts, and the next day I had a fully functioning leak free dishwasher.

22 Year old dishwasher . . . Not worth repairing I thought so I pulled it out to dispose of it. Before I did, I went online to see if any parts were still available. . . To my surprise partselect. Com had it all! My problem was a plugged chamber located on rear wall of unit. A 20 minute repair once the new part arrived. Part arrived in 3 days but was broken inside of pkg. I called and the operator apologized profusely. . . She told me to keep the defective and explained my cc would temporarily be charged for replacement but as soon as they received a credit from supplier my credit will appear on my cc stmt. I had a replacement the following day. . . What a company!!!!

Read about somebody else with the same problem and ordered the check valve. 4 screws off, twist out old valve, twist in new valve, 4 screws back in. Now dishes are see-yourself clean.

Pulled dishwasher out. Unscrewed 4 screws holding body valve, disconnected 2 hoses and replaced valve, put machine back together in reverse order.

The hardest part was figuring out how to disassemble the door to replace the baffles and door gasket. No pictures or clues on the internet or my owners manual. I figured it out myself and the rest was a piece of cake. When the 7 screws were removed, the door liner lifted right out and new parts fit right in.

I simply detatched the broken old roller and snapped in the new one. It was very simple and I did not need any tools.