4070810 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Old cap was already off and had string on it. Cut the string. Placed end cap over. Used needle nose pliers to open metal rail a little and put in new cap. Locked right in. That was easy. Thanks again.

My son found a water leak and cut the water supply off. He then pulled the machine from under the counter at which time I examined the valve under pressure and saw the leak. We cut the water off again and after tripping the circuit breaker we pulled the electrical connector and undid the mounting bracket which made getting the lines off the valve much simpler. New valve in hand I attached the lines and did a test then remounted the bracket and attached the electric. Easy as pie!

I took the front off of the dishwasher door, loosened the screws, unplugged the module and replaced it with the new module. This repair was the easiest repair I've ever completed!

At first I found some water on my hardwood floor by the dishwasher, I thought that I might spilled't the day before, then it hapened again, so I remover the front lower cover for the dishwasher and I found water under the dishwasher, then I turned on the machine and I found a pin hall water leak from the water inlet valve. I turned the machine off, then I closed the water valve under the sink, then I disconected the power plug from the valve, the diconected the water supply copper pipe, then diconected the house from the valve to dishwasher, then got the part# from the valve sticker and the model# for the dishwasher from inside of the door. after that I went online and I got the valve. make sure to try more than one website because they all have differant prices, and Parts Select was the lowest one.

Took off old funnel fill and put in funnel fill gasket and new funnel fill just to have a new one.

This isn't a terribly tricky repair, and the parts are cheap so it's worth a try!

(I had one tricky thing which was the door actuator broke while the door was shut. So I had to get the machine out of it's space without being able to open the front of the machine. I did this by lowering the feet in the front of the machine and then I used a hammer and flat chisel to break the two metal screws I had holding the top of the machine to the top of counter top...a little tricky!)

Remove screws from inside lower panel (where you put soap..the bottom) this will allow you to remove the inside of the door. But be careful as there are still wires attached so be careful to place the inside part without stressing the wires.

I needed to remove the metal harness and to open the black rectangular box that holds the interlock plunger so I could remove the plunger and spring (don't lose..and remember how it goes. take pictures if necessary). Then I was able to remove the broken actuator and see how it all fits together. It rests on top of the latch with notched side facing the inside of the machine. Make sure the notch is centered around where the interlock plunger is located.

Once you have the pieces fit together insert them into the door. Replace the plunger and spring and close the black rectangular box. Then replace the metal harness.

Hold everything in place and put the inside of the door back into position and lock it down with the screws.

You can test the door to make sure it's working but the whole mechanism is less functional when the machine isn't secured into its space. So, if you're mostly sure you've got it right, resecure the machine into its space making sure it's solid and then you should be good.

Like most everyone here I was very happy to accomplish this repair without calling in the repair service!! Awesome.

Very simple. Took off back cover with screwdriver. Popped off back cap found in center top inside. Replaced spring and white stick looking thing. Put black cover and then back panel back on. Instantly worked again.

It is extremely easy. Just take out the old lower rack and slide in the new rack. Remove the silverware holder from the old rack and insert it into the new rack.

The first posted instruction is dead on (except there are 14 phillips screws (not 10) on inside of door. Also, when reconnecting the 2" quick connect, make sure it is fully inserted - otherwise the numbers on the display panel will not show correctly. Mine didn't the first time, and I had to re-open the door panel and giggle around with the connection to get the numbers to display properly.

Removed the dishwasher from the cabinet. Turned it on it's top side. Removed the exit hose from the pump with a nut driver and replaced the flapper. Reconnected the hose to the pump.

This was very easy. 1) roll out lower rack, 2) rotate lower arm slightly counter-clockwise and lift it out, 3) install new lower arm by dropping into position and rotating clockwise. 4) roll in lower rack, and roll out upper rack, 5) use a nut driver to remove the retaining bolt/screw from the upper arm - it's in the center of the upper arm and you have to work from underside of upper rack, 6) remover upper arm, 7) install new upper arm by holding in position and re-inserting the retaining bolt/screw. 8) Tighten the retaining screw and make sure upper arm freely rotates.

I watched the video, read the instructions and went to work. This was the easiest repair I have ever done. I'm 71 and if I can do all 3 spray arms in a total of 15 minutes, anyone can. The hardest part was getting up off the floor when I was finished. The spray arms were all clogged, we have very hard water.

oversized outlet not available in local stores, this one fit perfectly

Remove the screws from the door and replace the switch interlock and door latch.

The problem is fixed and the dishwasher works fine so far (about three weeks) now.

The source of the problem looks more like the door latch because I use to push the door in to get it going before I replace the parts.

The video I received via email that show the how to do it was very helpful.

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Update after more than month. (12/30/2020)
The problem still persists. However I have a possible solution for it that doesn’t require any parts at all. The entire dishwasher is tilted backward. As the washing started and the water pileup in the bottoms of the dishwasher, it pull the entire dishwasher back work causing the switch interlock to release (open the relay causing the door open been sounds).

Level the dishwasher so that it doesn’t tilt backwards and this should fix the issue. I will post the latest after a month. If you need more info I can send a picture to describe the issue more clearly.
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Update 01-06-2021
The problem still persists. The above theory I had was wrong and didn’t make any difference.

However, I have a permanent solution but it may not be ideal for most people ??. The relay that get close/open when the door is close/open is now always CLOSED. To start the dishwasher just press start and make sure you don’t open the door while the dishwasher is running. It will not stop. I am sorry and I know it’s not a good solution but it’s kind of funny.

Due to loading a tall item in the lower rack of the dishwasher. The constant hitting of the spray hub, the hub broke.

I purchased the Middle Spray Arm Hub and using a hand nut driver, I unscrewed the nut and attached the new Hub and screwed it back in place.

The replacement was very easy and the cost of the part was very reasonable.

Delivery was quick and the dishwasher was up in running 10 minutes after the part arrived.

I would use this company again and I give them an A+ rating.

Dan Dailey