GSM2200V50BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

See GE web site for repair instructions. Take out screws at top of door. Slide unit out there is a spring on each side of the door just look at the good one for details. Easy fix. About 30 minutes.

Repair was easy. However, this did not solve the problem.

The hardest part is removing the plastic stop on the end of the two slides that support the roller rack. My unit was very old and I was afraid the plastic was brittle. Fortunately, the plastic could still be bent without breaking. You need to physically bend the plastic stops to remove. They came out easily, but you do need to apply some force.

Replacing the rollers was simple. Replacing the stops was easy once you understand how to pry them out. I would recommend trying to remove the stops with your hand only at first. You are less likely to damage the plastic.

With coin, to remove the end cap from the front inside of the rail, insert the edge of the coin into the side of the end cap and push the coin to the rear while rotating the end cap to the inside of the tray until it comes free. Don't force. Pepeat for other rail. Repeat to reinstall end caps. You can can now slide out the the tray. Use long nose pliers to remove old rollers and insert new roller(s) on same prong. Do all 4. Reinsert tray and end caps.

Pulled out the top tray fully, popped off the end caps. Removed the tray and placed it on the cabinet top. Popped off the old rollers and snapped on the new rollers. Replaced the tray into the dishwasher, Popped the end caps back on and I was done.

I watched the convenient video and saved an old machine that I've grown to love. Plus I didn't have to pay a repair service or have to buy a new machine.
Thanks GE,
T. Dunn

removed the end caps and took the rack out of the dish washer.

found right front rack roller bad and replaced.

slide rack back into dishwasher and replace end caps.

Removed the white end of the top track. Pulled off the remnants of the rack roller. Slide the rack roller wheel into the track and popped the other end on the top rack (looked at the other rack rollers to see how it fit.) After that, I put the end back on the track.... Note what is the top and what is the bottom of the track end. Realizing that there is a wider area on the track to slide part of the white track end through to get it on without much effort.

I connected one end of hose to the drain using a hose clamp and screwdriver then connected the other end to the dishwasher using anouther hose clamp and a screwdriver..

Removed screws and replaced the part. It couldn't of been earlier. Only problem this kit didn't include a toe kick and we are having a hard time finding it.

I followed the video instructions on removing the rack slide end cap to prevent breaking it and it was very easy to remove and replace the broken one. I attached the new rack rollers and voila we were back in business. I was about to order a new dishwasher the night before for $5oo! Thankfully the stores website wasn't working so I couldn't. I decided to look online to find out if it was easy just to replace the parts. Looks like I saved close to $500 just replacing those parts! AWESOME!!!!!Thank you for a user friendly website. It made all the difference")

from the information previous customers had written.
it saved a lot of fustration and time
and best of all the dish washer does not leak.

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

Removed stops on top rack. Removed rack, removed all rollers, replaced with the new ones. replace rack in machine replaced stops.

Fiddled with the rollers until figuring out how to remove them. Hardest part was getting the stops off the ends of the roller guides. Replaced rollers, replaced rack, replaced ends of roller guides. Voila