GSM2200V45BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

First, end caps were removed from support rails to free the washer rack. This is a little tricky - flexible rear finger of cap is bent back, then rotated inboard to permit end cap to slide out. Ten top wash rack is rolled out of washer. Old roller support assembies are pried loose and then snapped off their clamp locations on the upper wash rack, one at a time. Then the new rollers are snapped on in same way, except no tools are required.
Two of the old rack rollers were clearly worn out from nearly 10 years of normal operation, where plastic shaft is a bearing surface.

shut off water. removed lower panel disconnected power removed supply hose and outlet hose. disconnected electrical plug from valve. Un bolted valve from frame. removed elbow from valve inlet. installed elbow on new valve using Teflon tape. reinstalled valve to frame. connect hoses + electric plug to new valve. turn water on check for leaks. reconnect power. run dish washer check for leaks & popper operation. reinstall lower panel.

Took off the end cap- hardest part- took some twisting-be careful not to break it. After that slid out the old part and just popped the new one in. Then it took a little while again to put the end cap back in. No tools needed.

Removed the rack.
Removed the roller bar.
Removed the roller base from the rack.
Removed the roller from the roller bar.
Replaced in reverse order.

DONE.

Used a small flat head screw driver to remove the rail end covers (2) and removed the rack. Used my thumb to push the snap on roller assembly off the rack. The new rollers snap right back on the rack with just fing pressure. Re-installed the rack and then just pushed the rail end covers back on.

Very Simple Repair to a great machine. First problem in 13 years and still works great.

had to bend back the metal tab that holds the end cap on. this is tricky and a poor design from a repair point of view. i finally got the end cap off without destroying it. replacing the broken wheel was very simple and easy.

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

I just had to play around with it to attach the new cap without breaking it.....never did this before but eureka! it worked.

took the front pieces off the front of each bar and placed the new rollers in place. Put the front cover peices back. ....that's it! The only thing i used the screwdriver for was to help remove the pieces, one was more difficult than the other.

I Just Open Door And Put Fill Cap In And Turn That It

Removed the end tabs from the rack and then removed the rollers one at a time.

Replaced the rollers one at a time , one side at a time, starting with the rear ones. I had to use the pliers to remove one of the rollers ( it was tight) and to dislodge the end cap brackets on the rack.

Replaced the remaining 3 rollers.

Placed the end cap brackets back on the rack and then slid the rack into place.

It works great now!

The trick in replacing the roller wheels is to remove the plastic/rubber "stop" that is attached to the front of the stainles steel track. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to bend the small plastic extension on the "stop" so it would be released and then remove the "stop" from both tracks. Once that is done then simply slide out the rack assuming some of the wheels are still attached to the tracks and/or the wheels.

The next step is to install the new wheels onto the rack. Then, slide the rack/wheels onto the tracks. Then, snap the "stops" back onto the racks.

You're done!!

First I removed end caps of top roller rack. Caps have small squeeze tounge that must be squeezed and twisted to remove. Then simply roll out rack. plastic clips and wheels are easily removed and replaced.

placed the end cap into location and forced it into place. Fixed -and we are all much happier!!

I pried out the slide stops (just twisted the little plastic tab on the stop). Slid the top rack out. Popped four roller assemblies off. Popped four new ones back on. Aligned the top rack with the slides and slid it back in place. Finally, rocked the stops back in place by inserting the bottom first and pivoting the top. Had to use pliers to move the little plastic tab stops into the upper channel. Done. Works like a champ.