GDT550HSD4SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

-Disabled power.
-1/4” nut driver to take off kickplate.
-Unplug wires harness to door
-Dismount dishwasher from cabinets and pull out 4-6 inches
-uncouple spring pulley from door hinges.
-Open dishwasher door about 4 inches and pull out and up to remove
-Lay door down and remove 4 -T20 star bolts and two 1/4” bolts from door hinges(the door hinge has four bolts, but only remove one from each hinge that connects to the inner plastic door)
-remove vent cap and push up on interior plastic door casing to separate outer and inner door.
-Unbolt the soap dispenser module via 1/4” bolts and replace with new module. (be sure to line up module and gasket properly, installing 1/4inch bolts crossways, slowly tightening each bolt for a perfect seal).
-Reassemble the inner/outer doors and reattach to dishwasher in reverse order.
Be sure to plug the doors electric harness and kickplate.
-Plug the dishwasher back in and run it through a test.

I recently replaced the user interface, which took about 30 minutes. A week later replaced the soap dispenser module, which took 20 minutes. Disassembling the door was easier the second round.

I would read this project very easy for somebody with technical skills and easy with no prior skills

My granddaughter's fian'ce actially replaced the pump.
He pulled the dishwasher out, tipped it over and quickly and easily replaced the pump.
I had already snapped the converter on to the pump so it was ready to hook up. I had read previous messages that this part had a converter.
After putting the washer back in place we set it on a light wash to test it.
It went very well.

Looked upm the problem it said door wasn.t closed so cause was the door latch. put in the new one no change so I bought a new dishwasher

I replaced the flood switch following instructions shown in readily available YouTube videos. In short, you remove the coarse and fine filters, then take out the bracket holding in the flood switch and finally the switch itself. After replacing the switch, the dishwasher works normally again.

The only directions that came with the new pump and filter, was how to replace the filter. I had to find a You Tube video to show me where the drain pump was located., and the way to get to it. I also had to figure out how the new pump was hooked up electrically, since the new pump did not work with the plug in on the machine.

The base of the spray arm literally just spins a little bit into place like a luer lock. Takes two seconds to replace.

Followed directions on YouTube

First, drain as much water as possible using a shop vac or siphon. Unscrew two plastic lugs and food screen to release the metal *disk* found inside the dishwasher at the bottom. Then, remove the grey retainer ring found under the food screen.
Using the nut driver, remove two screws from the white plastic retainer ring at bottom the flood switch.
I used pliers to grip the ring to take it out.
**Dry everything in the "well" where the flood switch sits.**
Now, remove the bottom front cosmetic panel. This exposes the underside of the appliance. Locate the flood switch wire underneath and gently pull down the small black plastic tab which holds the wires in place. This allows more movement to make your job a little easier!
Pull up on the flood switch and simply unplug it and swap in your new switch! Replace everything as you found it, don't over-tighten your screws, and make your kids load that sucker! Hope this helps, and have a beautiful day!

My heating coil was not working so naturally I thought I needed a new coil and ordered one accordingly. During the time it took to ship to me, I did more research and people suggested testing the coil with and ohmmeter for resistance as often times the coil is fine and it is the flood switch that is the problem. I got an ohmmeter and checked the old coil and it returned readings that were just fine (btw 15-30), so I returned the coil and ordered this flood switch.

Anyone reading this debating between buying the coil and switch can save themselves a lot of trouble/time/money by removing the coil and testing it first.

The installation of the flood switch is fairly simple. There's a great video on Youtube for it (titled "GE Dishwasher not Drying Dishes - How to Replace Bad Flood Switch:), so I won't walk through the step-by-step on it.

However, one word of advice is to be careful when installing so that you don't let the o-ring on the switch slide down the connector/wire once you connect them or you'll get a slow leak into the catch pan at the bottom.

Also, if this if your first repair on a GE Dishwasher then get to know the unit while you have it pulled out. It won't be your last repair based on my experience...

Performed all checks on youtube...water coming in, course and fine filter cleaned, drain pump working (heard it come on and no water present and cycle end). Swapped water inlet valve bc it was the cheapest poss fix $19. No luck. Ordered circulation pump and motherboard. Swapped pump, very easy with machine out and turned on its back. Temp reinstall and ops checked good. Contacted Partselect for return slip, emailed immediately and sent thru post office.

I followed the U tube instructions already put out part select.

Followed your instructions and was finished in 5 minutes.

After replacing UI board, I replaced the mainboard. still did not solve the problem. The element tested good and I had removed the flood switch, rinsed and blew it out so it rattled but the damage was done. Replacing it made the dishwasher heat water and heated during dry cycle. Removed fine filter, removed course filter, removed two screws with nut driver, removed flood sensor and then reversed. A year or so ago, the dishwasher flooded for no apparent reason, wondering if that was the beginning end of the switch!

I simply followed the video instructions and replaced the rack myself, no tools required. Easy peasy

Just snapped it in place and that’s it!