GSD2000J20WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

The replacement of the motor and pump assembly went smoothly and without difficulty however this did not fix the problem. It then appeared that the inlet water valve was not operating properly, so this part was ordered and instlled, a very simple proceedure that could be done witrhout removving fthe dishwasher from its cabinet. -- Again failure to run -- the timer assembly and electronic panel were then removed and examined. The control panel had no visible defects, so the timer assemblyand its cover was removed and examined . Uing a variable power supply the drive motor for the timer was energized and tested. As the motor ran properly the electrical switching contacts were then carfully checked, it was discovered that one contact set was heavily pitted and burned. These contacts were carefully cleaned and pollished with 1000 grit sanding paper. The actuator leaves were examined and two sets were found to be slightly out of alignment. The leaves on these sets were bent slightly to insure they were in line with the rest of the leaf serts. It was then noted that the rotating leaf('s) actuator had a home position indicated by a molded depression at one location and the motor was energized using approximately 5 volts ( a nine volt battery could also be used as a poer supply) observing prolper polarity to run the rotator until the home position was established and the actuator rods paul dropped into this depression. The assembly was then replaced in the diswasher using care to make sure that the actuation arm and spring were positioned properly weith the arrow end of the arm located in the recesss of of the rotating timer disk use care in placing the assembly and do not lose the sping which attaches to a mounting post and the arm. You may want to take a picture of the spring and arm locations when you rwmove the timer assembly to properly re-assemble all components, the repaired unit was placed back in its cabinet and a full cycle run to establish proper operation. And unit checked ok! Some of these proceedures are not for the weak of heart. I am a retired engineer who has been repairing my own equipment since graduation. .

repair kit was complete and directions were easy to follow. my model of dishwasher disnt even require any of the adapters. really only required removing a couple of clamps and replacing everything as a single unit

The access panel fit perfectly. The screw holes lined up just right and the screws went in without any trouble. The toe kick panel was a different story. It almost seems like it is a generic, one panel fits all part. I couldn't figure out how to attach it to the dishwasher. None of the holes/slots lined up with anything, so it is just sitting there being held in place by the access panel and the floor.

Loosened the clamps connecting the pump, disconnected all electric and stabilizer arm. Simply unscrewed the solenoid bracket and replaced with new part.

I Just Open Door And Put Fill Cap In And Turn That It

This was one of those wonderful repairs where anything went right.
The part arrived overnight as ordered and even though I was abit leary of it fitting, since it was described as a replacement/new design, it fit perfectly! As mentioned in another post here, draining the water out of the unit so I could tip it over to do the replacement was the hardest part!
I'm sure I saved over $100 doing it myself. Thanks PartSelect!

A no brainer, replaced old fill cap with new fill cap. Delighted I was able to order the part, website is user friendly.

Replace both micro switches.

Used Phillips screwdriver to undo brackets that keep dishwasher in place. Pulled out dishwasher from underneath the counter. Placed hinge arm in spring, hooked spring onto clip, placed hinge arm in clip. Put back dishwasher under the counter and screwed in place. Took all of 15 minutes. Saved 185.00 for service call.

1. Disconnect power
2. Remove inner door panel
3. Remove timer assembly
4. Look up model and part #
5. Review schematics and order part
6. Replace timer assembly
7. Replace inner door panel
8. Install new knob
9. Plug in power
10. Run through washing cycle
DONE!!!

Nut driver and philips screwdriver.

after I let the unit rest on its side to expose the bottom part, I took a picture just in case for reference; I marked all electrical connections, so it would go to right place into the new unit; removed the old pump unit by loosening the rubber clamps, for the inlet and outlet; detached the support sling for the motor unit; installed the new pump unit; it fits like a charm and it was wonderful; I had some bad experiences of replacement parts from other suppliers, on many things that I fix , that won't really fit like the original, but this one fits like a charm; I made my first test run with just water with out the detergent and after one cycle I used the necessary dishwasher detergent and it works just like brand new; Thank you, PartSelect, I will be ordering any of my part needs from you. - G.V.

The most difficult part was removing the old wheels. The plastic coating on the rack had come off, leaving the metal exposed. The wheels had rusted on - that's why they wouldn't roll. Once we got them off with pliers, hammer, screwdriver and basically everything in the tool chest, we were home free. Installing the new wheels and axles was easy.

Checked availability of replacement machine and replacement parts online..in this process, I ran across a similar story by someone who fixed similar problem on a similar machine. Before removing the fill valve, I tried to confirm that it was defective my reading solenoid coil continuity. It looked ok so I could not use that info to confirm a bad fill valve, although that possibility was not eliminated. So I ordered a replacement fill valve, removed existing fill valve and took a long position on paper plates. On delivery of the valve, I found that its mounting bracket (which forms a part of the supply pressure boundary) had been redesigned to conform to a year-2000 redesign of the machine. Valve instructions allowed for this and provide for retention of mounting bracket from old valve for use on new valve. Instructions indicated the o ring from new valve (vs old) should be used in attaching the old bracket. I found that the o ring groove in the new valve was so deep that o-ring compression on reassembly was prevented. I went ahead and put together with new o-ring. When turned on supply pressure, it began leaking immediately, so I shut down, removed valve again. During this (2nd) reassembly, I stacked both o rings in same groove in order to get compression at all. Reinstalled valve w/ both o rings....no leaks and it works. I think valve design should be reviewed and depth of o ring groove reduced so only one o ring is needed.

Not really difficult to do. First remove the washer from the counter and flip it over. Carefully determine the correct drawing in the instructions which matches your machine. Follow insructions and double check everything. Took about an hour - and I saved about $350.00 by fixing it myself rather than buying a new one!