GSD490M-01 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Put end cap in dishwasher with movable part toward the back of the dishwasher. The free end of the movable part should be oriented at the top of the end cap. Put the lower half of the end cap into the rail behind the indented metal area so the widest part of the end cap is just opposite the hole where it should snap into place. Push the movable arm towards the back of the dishwasher until it fits under the upper rail. Then move the top half of the end cap into place under the top of the rail.

I ordered a drain valve shaft seal and new push on nut after reading similar stories of leaking problems on-line. I was pretty sure the leak was coming from the dump valve seal.

With repair parts on-hand, I took my dishwasher out during kitchen remodeling. I put the dishwasher on it's left side and removed the solenoid rod (lifts out on its own) and the dump valve's white plastic lever. I removed the old push on nut and pulled out the old washer with a small screwdriver. I then installed the new washer paying close attention to the supplied directions that said to install it with the lip in the correct direction. I then slipped on the new push on nut. The new push on nut is necessary since the old one will be destroyed in trying to remove it. I attacked it with needle nose plyers, a nail, and a small screwdriver before getting it bend and become loose enough to slide off. Care must be taken not to damage the shaft and groove. If you are generally handy at repairs, this repair will be easy.

I just hooked it up a few days ago and ran a cycle and no leak. Countertops will be installed in 4 days and the dishwasher will then get used frequently. I have faith the repair will hold and the dishwasher will remain leak free.

Luckily PartSelect was available to order the $20 repair parts and keep my faithful dishwasher on-line. Saved me the cost of a new $500 unit. I know this dishwasher cleans well and I don't have to risk buying a new one just to find out it doesn't clean as well.

Press endcap in place after ensuring the rack is in track

This is erins dad. She just bought her first home and it was missing the basket. I went online found your company and ordered.

It was so easy-just popped the end peice in and it fit perfectly. I also ordered 2 knobs for my dryer which was only one year old, they were also so easy to put on.. I received my parts 2 days after I ordered and because of some problems with my computer had to talk to the operators and was very pleased and happy with their help and with the parts that I ordered. I wil always order my parts from Parts Select.

Just set it in as it was exactly as described and ordered.

We simply followed the example of the end cap on the opposite side and snapped it into place.

Just plopped it in, it fit perfectly! I love it! Very easy to order the part, and very fast shipping! I order it and it took a day to get to me!

I pulled the old basket out with my right hand and inserted the new basket with my left hand! HA! Maybe 5 seconds!

took the moter off and the impellar off replaced the impeller .back and turn the washer back on but it still wouldnt .wash .the moter wouldnt turn .so had the moter tested and it was the moter . found out how and what to look for on you tube .it was a big help in how to fix your washer .typed in model and what kind portable .it was easy .thank you for haveing my part also .and shipping was real fast .

Well disassembly was good - removed the spring cam assembly on the dump valve cam, then two screws of the solenoid to remove the solenoid, beyond that the repair became a little tough since the seal / shaft retainer wasdifficult to remove. The shaft has a grove which the retainer clip is hard to remove from, and once removed - it deformed, so i installed the seal using a nut driver as a seal press to evenly press it into place. then had to work the retainer with a small set of pliers to reshape it, then reaasembled in place which is when i realized why it was hard to get off due to the shaft grove, which as well as holds the seal it also aligns the shaft latteraly in the pump housing, but after putting it all together and firing up the dishwasher, no leaks and it was an hour laying on my side which i feel was worth it, thx jon

Pulled the dishwasher out from under the counter using a little rug to keep the metal feet from scratching the tile. It is surprisingly light. Old motor and pump are held in mainly by pipe clamps, easy to remove once the washer has been pulled out and turned on its side.

The instructions that came with the pump kit show how to set it up for several different dishwashers. Once you figure out which one you have it is quite easy to set it up. Mine leaked when I first started it up. I pulled it back out and re-tightened the large pipe clamps and it now runs dry.

The dishwasher runs quieter and the dishes come out clean now.

Remove lower panels, turn off hot water supply, Turn off breaker to dishwasher. notice how power connector is orientated and how valve is mounted to chassis of dishwasher and remove Molex connector which supplies power to valve. The power to the valve is 120VAC when the timer gets to the appropiate cycle I measured the valve with no connector attached with DVM set to Diode or ohms setting and got about .825. I measured the NEW part and measure about the same. Have towel under valve hoses for small amount of water will come out. remove small diameter hose , inlet water supply, remove 2 screws holding part with nutdriver to remove valve which exposes the black hose attached to valve. Hose has a hose clamp, use pliers to remove. good time to check and clean hoses. I unwrapped a coat hanger to run through the hoses for debris. to INSTALL reverse the above. clean water away from floor with towel. Turn on hot water supply, check for leaks, I did not have any leaks. Turn on breaker. You can stick a stubby screwdriver into the door close switch of front door which enables you to turn on (swing arm) dishwasher with door open to check water pressure. I have a great deal more water pressure and water from jets spray much higher than before. Old valve was clearly bad, but solenoid of valve still worked, which sucks in the arm when energized. I used a DVM on the 2 wire connector on valve to check for 120vac when cycle turns it on-measured good. I still don't have quite the same cleaning as before. It is 80% better, but something is still not right. My wife put in one of those pot cleaners (red) mesh plastic thingy on top rack--and found pieces of red mesh plastic in debris area, cleaned it out as best I could removing the 2 covers, but not sure valve is opening there or debris is clogged in there which sends pieces of food, etc. through hose to garbage disposal. Hose wasn't clogged. Cleaning better but wife is still saying not as good. The Pump is running good, cleaned dust and dirt out of pump with vacuum. 10 years old, thinking of removing dishwasher from counter and checking the pump area or change it.

very easy like you said

replaced pump and motor with new one. worked but pump would not empty the water. ordered additional parts check valve,seal and box that check valve screwed into. did not fix problem. Got to looking at replacement pump and discovered thet discharge solonoid was not completely opening the discharge port. I could hold it down manually and the machine would empty. I reported the problem to parts select and they without question shipped me a new pump and motor. took the dishwasher out of the wall again and swapped them out, and now it works fine. the repair was easy and simple. the difficulty was taking the dishwasher out and reinstalling it 3 times. I will use parts select again if the need arises.